Builds Joez's Built Thread/Recap. Hybrid Cage, 4Ds

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Looks like the ruffstuff long arm kit provides damn good articulation up front. Do you ever run the front sway bar for over the road travel? Do you intend to do a 3 link I the future?

I’m very interested in you opinion here because I’m looking for an option that will offer better flex and castor correction without going to a 3 link. Awesome rig btw.

Thanks man. I wanted to leave the option to 3 link open in case I wasn't happy with the radius arms. But, I am plenty happy with it. No sway bar at all.

Every suspension type has its pluses and minuses. A long, flat radius arm can flex well, package very well, they ride great, maintain your pinion angle, and if designed right don't unload much. They do have a lot of anti dive, but that is part of their nature. I have never experienced any strange unloading on climbs, it doesn't hop in the dunes with wheelspin, however the body does still have a tendency to follow the front suspension. Not as bad as with factory arms, but the front is tighter than the rear. I have 9 1/2" of vertical separation, uppers and lowers are triangulated to keep things in line through the arc of travel and keep bushings alive.

Going to a 3 link isn't a magic cure all for what ails you. They flex great sure, but if your geometry sucks it's going to be worse than a poorly designed radius arm. There is more to a link suspension than just number of pieces. I went with a radius arm because I felt it could be the best compromise for what i do, and to keep my 80 as low as possible. As I've said before and told a number of people, it not perfect, but it's perfect for me.
 
Thanks man. I wanted to leave the option to 3 link open in case I wasn't happy with the radius arms. But, I am plenty happy with it. No sway bar at all.

Every suspension type has its pluses and minuses. A long, flat radius arm can flex well, package very well, they ride great, maintain your pinion angle, and if designed right don't unload much. They do have a lot of anti dive, but that is part of their nature. I have never experienced any strange unloading on climbs, it doesn't hop in the dunes with wheelspin, however the body does still have a tendency to follow the front suspension. Not as bad as with factory arms, but the front is tighter than the rear. I have 9 1/2" of vertical separation, uppers and lowers are triangulated to keep things in line through the arc of travel and keep bushings alive.

Going to a 3 link isn't a magic cure all for what ails you. They flex great sure, but if your geometry sucks it's going to be worse than a poorly designed radius arm. There is more to a link suspension than just number of pieces. I went with a radius arm because I felt it could be the best compromise for what i do, and to keep my 80 as low as possible. As I've said before and told a number of people, it not perfect, but it's perfect for me.
Thanks for that, it makes sense the way you explain it. Seems like your set is more middle of the road and perhaps what i am looking for.
 
If this was a trailer queen, 3 link all day long. If I decide to go ORI's, then I will 3 link, as those act as their own sway bar similar to how the radius arm acts, but without the bind.

I've let quite a few people drive this without issue, and it has good enough street manners for my non gearhead wife to drive it comfortably. If you aren't overly tall, I wouldn't have a problem recommending this setup. If you are anywhere near Chicago I'd be happy to toss you the keys, on or off the trail, so you could see how you like it.
 
Spare me the details.
OK, well, a lot has been written about this in academic texts.

The ELI5 is basically that a radius arm setup has a few very specific constraints to it that don't give you as much design flexibility. Stock radius arms on the ford super duties, land rovers, land cruisers, etc, generally work fine because they're designed to be fairly rigid anyway and the frame mounting points are low enough relative to the axle centerline that roll steer and instant centers and all that jazz tends to work out ok.

Three links give you greater design freedom (though harder to package) and you can change the kinematics a little bit more. Radius arms can be fine though I can't think of a situation where, if packaging permits, I'd rather have one than a properly built linked suspension (including on-road).

Edit: Unless I already had @joez rig and then I'd leave it alone and just wheel it because it works
 
I have a s***ton of new sheetmetal to hang and clean this wrinkled hunk of junk up, but I keep on holding out hope for UA. Did officially make the cut for Dirty Dozen, but haven't gotten any calls yet so I get the feeling I'm out. Still an honor to make the finals.

And no, the typo wasn't in my application.

Dirty Dozen Finalists of Ultimate Adventure 2018 #UA2018
 
I have a s***ton of new sheetmetal to hang and clean this wrinkled hunk of junk up, but I keep on holding out hope for UA. Did officially make the cut for Dirty Dozen, but haven't gotten any calls yet so I get the feeling I'm out. Still an honor to make the finals.

And no, the typo wasn't in my application.

Dirty Dozen Finalists of Ultimate Adventure 2018 #UA2018

Good showing of cruisers in that lineup.
 
Haven't updated this in a spell. Obviously I did not make it into UA, so I decided to spruce the old girl up with some fresh doors, hatch, and tailgate. But, since I was putting in scratched paint, I felt I had to clean up what was existing.

The whole 80 got it all. It got compounded twice, polished, and waxed before our trip in June. Actually looked really good, but I now realize just how poorly the burgundy photographs. No matter what the pictures just make it look bland. But, I have all functioning and sealing doors again, and more importantly for my next project, a strait tailgate.

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Which brings us to this weekends project. Couldn't stomach the cost of a tailgate storage panel, so I picked up a sheet of 1/4" aluminum and decided to give my own design a whirl. Still haven't solidified what I want to do for hinges, or even if I do one big door or two smaller doors, or if I am going to use stainless marine hinges that mount on top, or do a piano hinge on the back side to give it a nice flat look.

I plan on doing what I normally do, and that is just start cutting and see what I end up with.

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One big door, continuous hinge, and so far I have riveted it all together. Need to drill the holes for the slam latches, lay carpeting, and add some reinforcements to the opening.

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Latest issue. I don't get it via print anymore - it's through Google newsstand.
 
Well, that's a nice surprise!
 
It's no UA, but I suppose it's a decent consolation prize.

I'll take being the only one of the group to get a whole page as a definite win.
 
R18s on 17" wheels. Youre a wild man

Isn't thay what beadlocks do, add size in every direction?




It was correct on my application.
 

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