JDUBs DIY Skid build (with files) (1 Viewer)

[JDUB fab]

I’ve been working on a front skid design for a couple weeks now. Using my Tacoma design as a starting point, this skid has an oil drain hole, and as much clearance as I could get (with a diff drop). Was going to do an oil filter trap door, and I still might, but decided pulling the skid down twice a year isn’t a bad idea..
I will post the cut file when I am totally finished, as I am still tweaking it as I go.
I removed the front kdss protector bars and gave the skid 1.5” of clearance below the sway bar, which is what the oem bars have for clearance. Once complete I will test out in full articulation to make sure it doesent hit anywhere. (I have kdss spacers)
Uses all stock mounting locations and bolts. (Although will be upgrading to grade 8-10.9) I ran a tap in all spots with some cutting fluid to clean everything up. I recommend this everywhere on your rig, helps a lot in my part of the world where corrosion is prevalent. Luckily there are only like 3 different sizes, I keep the taps in my rig tool box.
My plan is to contine the skid set and design a mid/rear and gas tank protector.

Material: 3/16” mild steel. I’ve made 1/4” aluminum versions, but prefer how steel slides over rocks. Especially for the front skid.

Teaser: also in the process of designing bolt on sliders plates/sliders. Stay tuned for that.

 

[JDUB fab]

 

[JDUB fab]

 

[JDUB fab]

 

[r2m]

If you're looking for comments and suggestions, I'd go with adding oil filter access along with any other maintenance points.
Reason: For someone like me, at my age, not that I'm that old, also because where I live, I can't and don't like to do maintenance on my rigs any more.
Been there, done that and have all the stained clothes, busted knuckles, etc. from all that. I also can't since I live very close to the beach and slight incline, hence no place to do it. I have my mechanic do all the regular (messy) stuff. Problem is, he will only work on stock vehicles. If he has to start pulling skid plates for service, the price of service will be $$$.
If I were to purchase skids from you, I'd rather pay for your engineering and design skills to put in an access to all the maintenance at a one time cost to you, then have to pay extra every time I go to get my rig serviced.
Also, skids can be a headache installing by yourself trying to lift the entire plate up to start that first and second bolt. Although once it's hanging by two blots, the rest is easy, it's just starting it that's a pain.
Just a thought.

 

[OCGX]

Looking good. Do you plan on adding side ridges or gussetts? The factory mounting points are tacked nuts, if the skid plate deforms, the factory mounting points will either get tweaked or the tack welds will break.

 

[JDUB fab]

If you're looking for comments and suggestions, I'd go with adding oil filter access along with any other maintenance points.
Reason: For someone like me, at my age, not that I'm that old, also because where I live, I can't and don't like to do maintenance on my rigs any more.
Been there, done that and have all the stained clothes, busted knuckles, etc. from all that. I also can't since I live very close to the beach and slight incline, hence no place to do it. I have my mechanic do all the regular (messy) stuff. Problem is, he will only work on stock vehicles. If he has to start pulling skid plates for service, the price of service will be $$$.
If I were to purchase skids from you, I'd rather pay for your engineering and design skills to put in an access to all the maintenance at a one time cost to you, then have to pay extra every time I go to get my rig serviced.
Also, skids can be a headache installing by yourself trying to lift the entire plate up to start that first and second bolt. Although once it's hanging by two blots, the rest is easy, it's just starting it that's a pain.
Just a thought.

I’m going to design the oil filter door, but not cut it into mine, i think I’m going to weld over the oil hole as well. For me, I do all the maintenance basically and have the fumoto valve, which makes it hard even with the drain hole I made. But I like having the option if and when I make more.

Looking good. Do you plan on adding side ridges or gussetts? The factory mounting points are tacked nuts, if the skid plate deforms, the factory mounting points will either get tweaked or the tack welds will break.

Yes and yes. Gussets are key in the very front, I will be adding verticals support all the way back too, it really helps a lot.
I’ve never had an issue with the factory nuts, but I agree they are tenuous. I’ve bashed my Tacoma skids pretty hard, and never damaged the mounting nuts, I guess I bashed my arb GX skids too, bent them reall bad and nothing damaged to the mounts.

 

[Dubs2017]

Looking good!

 

[JDUB fab]

Little progress, got the gussets on and diff drop plate tacked in. Now I need to jack the rig up and throw it back under to measure how tall I can make the side pieces. (See where they would hit the LCA at full droop) also need to cut and attach a rear plate for the next skid to attach to.

 

[r2m]

That is looking very bullet (rock) proof!
So looking at the power panel in the bottom picture, it looks like you have a shop and this isn't a home garage job?
Also, nice touch with the laser/waterjet cutout of your logo!

Little progress, got the gussets on and diff drop plate tacked in. Now I need to jack the rig up and throw it back under to measure how tall I can make the side pieces. (See where they would hit the LCA at full droop) also need to cut and attach a rear plate for the next skid to attach to.
View attachment 3156993View attachment 3156994

 

[JDUB fab]

That is looking very bullet (rock) proof!
So looking at the power panel in the bottom picture, it looks like you have a shop and this isn't a home garage job?
Also, nice touch with the laser/waterjet cutout of your logo!

Lol yeah not my garage. I got some serious power and gas to this building. I’m a college sculpture professor. Lucky to have access to the facilities, including a CNC plasma. If you look close you can spy one of my cast iron sculptures..

 

[r2m]

Lol yeah not my garage. I got some serious power and gas to this building. I’m a college sculpture professor. Lucky to have access to the facilities, including a CNC plasma. If you look close you can spy one of my cast iron sculptures..

Wow! That sculpt looks awesome! (from what I can see...)
Looks like a Christmas scene?

 

[JDUB fab]

Wow! That sculpt looks awesome! (from what I can see...)
Looks like a Christmas scene?

Thanks! That’s just one corner of the scene. Peep my website for finished versions. (Shameless promotion)

Joel Weissman

www.joelweissman-art.com

 

[ducktapeguy]

I’m going to design the oil filter door, but not cut it into mine, i think I’m going to weld over the oil hole as well. For me, I do all the maintenance basically and have the fumoto valve, which makes it hard even with the drain hole I made. But I like having the option if and when I make more.

Yes and yes. Gussets are key in the very front, I will be adding verticals support all the way back too, it really helps a lot.
I’ve never had an issue with the factory nuts, but I agree they are tenuous. I’ve bashed my Tacoma skids pretty hard, and never damaged the mounting nuts, I guess I bashed my arb GX skids too, bent them reall bad and nothing damaged to the mounts.

I also gave up on doing my own oil changes, just wasn't worth the trouble. But the guy that did my oil changes wasn't happy because it took a couple of people to get the front skids back on, so I'm adding a drain valve to make it easier . I purchased the EZ oil drain valve instead of the fumoto because it has the option of a screw on nipple that you can attach a short hose. It should make it a lot easier to drain the oil without it splashing all over the skid.

Also I would recommend cutting drain holes if the skid plate is in contact with the front crossmember. When I dropped my skids, the front crossmember was completely packed with wet dirt, because my RCI skids blocked the drainage holes.

 

[JDUB fab]

I also gave up on doing my own oil changes, just wasn't worth the trouble. But the guy that did my oil changes wasn't happy because it took a couple of people to get the front skids back on, so I'm adding a drain valve to make it easier . I purchased the EZ oil drain valve instead of the fumoto because it has the option of a screw on nipple that you can attach a short hose. It should make it a lot easier to drain the oil without it splashing all over the skid.

Also I would recommend cutting drain holes if the skid plate is in contact with the front crossmember. When I dropped my skids, the front crossmember was completely packed with wet dirt, because my RCI skids blocked the drainage holes.

Yeah I get wanting fluid drain holes. For me I’ve decided taking the skid off is the best plan, but at over 50lbs it’s a beast. I use a roller jack to get it into position. As for the fumoto it also has a nipple for attaching a hose to drain, main reason I got one, makes changing the oil much cleaner.