Izzy's amateur hour (2 Viewers)

[izzyandsue]

By the way, running 5 nuts on driver rear wheel, got a stripped bolt. More crap to fix. Ordered this from Amazon, had good luck with Tekton tools. Will use the die to clean up all the studs and the tap for the nuts. Its crazy how difficult to remove some of them are and I don't want to strip another one. Anyone welcome to borrow if you are having the same problem.

 

[izzyandsue]

Got the tap and die kit, and it made the wheel work a lot easier. Difficult to use the die with the bolt in place, but it was good enough to secure with aftermarket nut. Will replace that stud later when I decide to screw up the non-functioning parking brakes. Cleaned all the nuts for the same wheel, and the bolts, and now it all spins in and out like new. I got to do the rest of the wheels to avoid any further cross threading. Wondering if it is just galvanic corrosion that needs to be cleaned...

This morning did my first oil change, used Toyota filter (small) and Mobil1 0-40. The oil choice was for 2 reasons, seems to be highly (if not top) rated in the oil thread, and I had a bunch of it as I have been using the same for track cars for a long while. The filter was in there pretty tight, new one went in easy.

I thought I was burning a little oil, but when I removed the oil drain plug, didn't even need a wrench! I had no drips in driveway, must have been dripping while driving under pressure. Torqued it to 20 ftlbs with new washer.

Will take some pics of the future jobs, got a Beno care package with plug wires, plugs, rotor cap and gasket, rotor, fuel filter. Have not found any DIY in the 80 Forum showing where all the stuff is, just descriptions. I need pics... I don't read too well.

 

[izzyandsue]

Tapped all the wheel nuts, plenty of machine oil to remove the accumulated crud (scientific term) from them, then good brake cleaner to clean them up. Some more difficult than others, but now the nuts spin in easily. Still need to replace one bolt on rear....

 

[izzyandsue]

Happy Memorial Day, will probably watch Saving Private Ryan later, call some old buddies and tell each other lies.

But this morning, after the complete failed attempt yesterday to remove the rear disk, I attacked the Beno care package.

Dist cap, rotor, plug wires, spark plugs, PCV and grommet, all went in without drama, easy peasy. Toyota wires are numbered, cap has numbers, so even I could follow that like painting by numbers! The new plugs center electrode is huge compared to the NGK plug I replaced. This as a simple job and I expect to get 50% higher gas mileage, combined with the oil change.

But then, the fuel filter. The one installed is an aftermarket jobber, made in China is all I see. It is not bolted to manifold either, but no matter how many yoga tricks I tried, couldn't get my hands on the forward banjo bolt. So leaving that alone for now.

I did find while poking around down there, there was a rubber hose that seems to connect to the Transmission dip tube that was cut off, so I reattached it. Also found leaking coolant from what I think is the coolant temp sensor,,couldn't get a ranch in there to tighten it, so will leave that later too.

 

[CharlestonG8R]

Happy Memorial Day, will probably watch Saving Private Ryan later, call some old buddies and tell each other lies.

But this morning, after the complete failed attempt yesterday to remove the rear disk, I attacked the Beno care package.

Dist cap, rotor, plug wires, spark plugs, PCV and grommet, all went in without drama, easy peasy. Toyota wires are numbered, cap has numbers, so even I could follow that like painting by numbers! The new plugs center electrode is huge compared to the NGK plug I replaced. This as a simple job and I expect to get 50% higher gas mileage, combined with the oil change.

But then, the fuel filter. The one installed is an aftermarket jobber, made in China is all I see. It is not bolted to manifold either, but no matter how many yoga tricks I tried, couldn't get my hands on the forward banjo bolt. So leaving that alone for now.

I did find while poking around down there, there was a rubber hose that seems to connect to the Transmission dip tube that was cut off, so I reattached it. Also found leaking coolant from what I think is the coolant temp sensor,,couldn't get a ranch in there to tighten it, so will leave that later too.

I missed the part numbers and manufacturers of the cap/rotor/plugs/wires/PCV/grommet! I need the performance enhancement! By the way, I figured out the sound that your 80 reminds me of... On the trails, it sounds like McFly's DeLorean!

 

[izzyandsue]

I have wondered about the high pitch sound, if thats normal. Thought it was when i heard others... Must be the flux capacitor

 

[izzyandsue]

Ahhhh, the parking brakes. Tore into the, today, started with DS, which was missing the rear most shoe spring and a chunk of shoe material was laying on the hub. Nice. Should have the rebuilt kit tomorrow, got new shoes from Autozone.

A couple of thoughts:

• Bell crank was frozen, both outside and inside. Copious amount of Naval Jelly and rinsing with water removed all the rust so it all moves freely. Left the jelly working for an hour after first application, the 30 mins twice and the metal is nice and Blake
• PB blaster for the crank hinge inside hub and it is now free like a bird. Will coat with grease or something hydrophobic to keep the metal free and shiny
• Naval jelly inside the hub to remove rust and it is now very shiny and new
• Didn't have to remove the cable, all the work is to free levers and replace springs and other giblets

Went a little crazy with naval jelly on other rusted parts, that stuff is incredible!

Naked brakes:

 

[NCFJ]

Did you buy Johnny's old camera/phone?

 

[izzyandsue]

I get excited, I shake like a chihuahua!

Anyway, done with the snafu brakes, new shoes, rehabbed rusty guts. Worse was passenger side, see below. Still naval jelly dissolved the rust, ph blaster got it moving freely, caliper grease coated to prevent or delay seazing. Reused most of my hardware as it looked better than the Cruiserparts one. Amazon sells the same for $19, I paid $39 thinking it would be better quality, but no, same.

I tried the parking brake, not perfect like my other more modern cars, but a lot betters than before, they won't hold the truck I a steep hill though, not sure how much to ask from them.

Nice clean after much naval jellying, scraping, washing off rust and crud.

 

[izzyandsue]

Mirror time, time to de-ghettofy my driver side mirror by removing the electrical and duct tape holding it together. Followed some posts in the main forum to get ideas.

First, secure the colors of the wires for reinstall later

Next, remove the plastic black cover from under base

Remove the mirror housing and all the loose parts and the spring. Careful to retain the the 3 ball bearings, they might be attached to the mirror housing.

Drill a hole to see is the wires could go through and try to assemble.

That didn't work, so I used the rearmost existing square hole in the base, and cut off about 1/2 inch off the p to compress,the spring.

Finally, an old 3 in bolt with a couple of washers and a single nut, compressed it so that it felt like the passenger side. Done, some goofoff to remove the old tape adhesive and truck looks like it just cam off the boat!

 

[izzyandsue]

HULA DANCING MIRRORS!

Today the passenger side mirror got tackled to stop doing its hula dance. The outboard top ear was torn, that was the issue. Did some search here and got the idea for the fix. Used a 1/16 drill bit to drill two holes on the remaining piece, and a simple carpet tack to, redesigned to fit the spot and mimic the original. Mirror is solid now, no more dancing at speed.

Here's a close up and smaller pics for the detail, easy fix.

 

[izzyandsue]

Hi Lift. I know many don't like them, I have one because it is the manly thing to do and I took a few classes on how to use them at the Overland Expo. I finally ordered the clamps to mount on front bumper. It fits perfectly on the lower bar, stinger looked too precarious.

 

[CharlestonG8R]

HULA DANCING MIRRORS!

Today the passenger side mirror got tackled to stop doing its hula dance. The outboard top ear was torn, that was the issue. Did some search here and got the idea for the fix. Used a 1/16 drill bit to drill two holes on the remaining piece, and a simple carpet tack to, redesigned to fit the spot and mimic the original. Mirror is solid now, no more dancing at speed.

Here's a close up and smaller pics for the detail, easy fix.

View attachment 1092015

Looks appreciably more complicated than the zip tie repair, but I think I like this better. Zip ties worked for a few months but my DS is dancing again. Thanks for sharing and taking pics.

 

[izzyandsue]

I couldn't figure out the zip tie way, found this in the same thread, literally it was less than 10 min, the only difficult part was holding the mirror when drilling. 1/6 bit is the smallest I got, a strong staple would work instead of the carpet tack too.

 

[izzyandsue]

Happy Father's Day to all dads! I was bored, sooooo, ordered the leatherique basic beige dye and started to do a seat. Before I knew it, ended up with 5 coats on all seats and nasty horn cover on steering wheel. Surprised how decent the seats look for just a few bucks, they look like new! I didn't removed them or did anything too "professional", right in situ dye job. Probably missed a few spots on rear seats where they touch.

The places where I splatter on the plastic came right off with wet rag

 

[CharlestonG8R]

Happy Father's Day to all dads! I was bored, sooooo, ordered the leatherique basic beige dye and started to do a seat. Before I knew it, ended up with 5 coats on all seats and nasty horn cover on steering wheel. Surprised how decent the seats look for just a few bucks, they look like new! I didn't removed them or did anything too "professional", right in situ dye job. Probably missed a few spots on rear seats where they touch.

The places where I splatter on the plastic came right off with wet rag

View attachment 1096159 View attachment 1096161 View attachment 1096165 View attachment 1096166 View attachment 1096167

Low humidity with temp between 68-80*... Were you inside your garage? I wonder how much that matters...

 

[izzyandsue]

Well, close enough. The website states 70-85, so started last night, once it dropped a bit, and was done by noon, right at 85. Hope they have good engineers who write instructions realizing people won't read them! Now I wait 2 days and buff them on Wednesday at the earliest.

 

[krzyabncanuck]

Hey brother.

What do you use for mapping ? I seen some set up in your rig last few trips. And how do you like it ?

 

[izzyandsue]

Darin, I use Scenic Map by Granger FX on te iPad. Works great when off the grid, doesn't need to use cell towers. I bought the bundle, was like $17, and does take a old bit of memory as maps are downloaded all the time. But that was what I was looking for. I do like it, easy to track where you are going and where you have been.

Beats the hell out of the 7.5 minute series USGS, map reading tool and compass I learned to read maps a long time ago, when Reagan was in-charge.....

 

[izzyandsue]

Got the drive belts today from Onur, changed them all this evening with my son. Followed the 25 minute belt change thread, and just as expected, 2 hours later we are done. A good bit of the time was trying to figure out the first bolt to attack. We kept looking for a bolt as the thread mentions, where the foook is it? Open up the FSM on the iPad and it was easy, not a bolt but a lock nut. Duhhh. from then on was just wrenching and muscling a little.

Now the truck doesn't sound like it has a flux capacitor, that's the only downside. The upside is, it sounds like a gas powered engine, not jet fueled, very quiet.....