ive got a winch, any recommendations on how to run the cable from the front, under the chasis and to the rear

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Run it under the axels so it minimizes potential of contacting wire's, hoses or other breakable bits?
That first "bend" going down around the front bumper and under the front axel is goint to be a massive efficancy loss and you'll want friction sleaves on the rub points.
 
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Don’t
 

That's what I really wanted to say.
It's not going to be good.

Agree, don't. If you need a rearward pull that often rig up a winch in the rear. I've done front mounted winch/backward pull a couple times when it was only lack of traction on a muddy road. It worked ok, but earlier this week I got into deep mud and tried it again. Stalled a 12k Warn winch without moving the Cruiser. Wire rope cut a notch in the lower portion of the roller fairlead.

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Agree, don't. If you need a rearward pull that often rig up a winch in the rear. I've done front mounted winch/backward pull a couple times when it was only lack of traction on a muddy road. It worked ok, but earlier this week I got into deep mud and tried it again. Stalled a 12k Warn winch without moving the Cruiser. Wire rope cut a notch in the lower portion of the roller fairlead.

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I bet it was fun stringing the cable in the mud under the rig… lol
 
^

looking at all suggestion, dont want to buy a second winch
I understand the potential need for this, but it is something I would never do unless it was a life or death situation.
A steel cable under extreme tension can cut into an axle housing.
 
Get 2 snatch blocks and a winch line extension, you can self recover from the rear that way effectively, if you have two good anchors.

If you want a good example of what can happen watch what happened to Tony/Tooz on 4WD 24/7 recently when his under mount winch cable snagged something in a bog hole.
 
winches are so cheap these days, just get a 2nd, fab up a mount that locates in the tow hitch so its removable and run +ve & -ve cables from the starter battery to a large anderson plug at the rear.
 
Plan for the worst, hope for the best. Be prepared.
 
I don’t think the situation arises enough to justify the cost.
 
I carry a couple of snatch blocks and a winch
line extension whenever I'm on trail, so it isn't any extra cost or bother.
 
ill do a bulk address of questions in one thing

its a rope line

the need, there isnt really but I might be the only one in the group that has a winch, and I would like a winch access at the rear if I need it

Not getting second winch, first is not really going to be used all the time, let alone a second one



this is really cool, that what I was thinking, but I dont really has a spot underneath to install the winch to, only worry what sort and strength of pulleys/eyelets/hoops would be needed for something like this to work
I was thinking guiding along the frame rails on the outer side between the fuel tank for where the gear box and oil pan is
 
I'm in the "dont" camp on this, the complexity and cost to do it safely would eclipse the cost of a HF winch very quickly to sling under the rear.

A preferred setup would be to toss in a line extension and a couple extra snatch blocks in to setup a rear pull or extra tow straps to do a vehicle pull with them on dry land.

Or you can do 2in receivers fr/rr with a removable winch mount. Just need to run dedicated wires to rear with a high amp anderson connector. Just be careful with off angle witching, lots of stress on the hitch insert
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I carry a couple of snatch blocks and a winch
line extension whenever I'm on trail, so it isn't any extra cost or bother.
This is the most cost effective and IMO safest method. I would never run a cable/line under the truck. If you are self recovering the snatch blocks (very underrated in this day and age) come in very handy and if in your scenario, you are the only one with a winch and need to assist others just reposition your vehicle so as not to need the added fairlead.
 
Get 2 snatch blocks and a winch line extension, you can self recover from the rear that way effectively, if you have two good anchors.
I’ve tried that setup just to see whether it works. I can report that yes, it does work, but it’s really a handful. I have the regular-style snatch blocks, and had the (synthetic …) line catch in one of those when a slight angle developed during the pull; probably better to use those rings designed for synthetic line. I’ve decided that when the time comes that I need to winch myself backwards, I’ll sling the line under the truck, even if that means I’ll have to kiss the line goodbye afterwards. Since I carry line extensions anyway, I can wrap one of those onto the drum and motor onwards.
 
I don't see there being many real world scenarios where setting up with snatch blocks to winch backwards will be practical or achievable with suitable anchor points etc.

Dyneema extension ropes, doughnut style aluminium snatch rings, soft shackles etc are all pretty cheap now. All these would definitely be part of a winch recovery kit, if I had a winch.

If you're the first car in a group, this means there's a car behind you that can do a static pull, or snatch strap recovery.
Extension rope, snatch blocks etc can open up possibile options for this too
 
OP: I think the only way I'd ever attempt to use a front mounted winch for a rearward pull would be with a couple snatch blocks and some tree savers, provided you have the rigging and the trees to hook to. It's certainly not an ideal way to do things, but is possible if you're left with no other option.

I know you don't want to hear "add a second winch", but the china freight winches are decent enough to put a secondary winch on the rear. I have a nice Come Up winch in the front, and a Apex 12k in the rear. Will I ever need it? Probably not. But I bet it gets used for all sorts of stuff besides vehicle extraction...

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