Weber 32/36 DGAV problem. Engine dies when warmed up and I lay off the throttle.

[Av8erB]

Hi, as the title says, my engine keeps dying when it warms up and I lay off the throttle. For example if im driving it for like 10 min or so, and the engine has had a chance to warm up, if I s*** into neutral the engine completely dies. I can obviously shift back into a gear and it will start back up again if I have enough momentum. It will also start back up if I engage the started and give it a little gas but then I need to maintain a higher rev to stop it from dying again.

I checked the choke and the valves are almost vertically open when it's hot and only slightly open when cold. So it seems to be working.

Some info. I just replaced the gaskets for the carb put a new float pin assembly in and cleaned the carb. I also replaced the fuel pump as the old one had went bad. I also replaced the fuel filter.

Any help would be great.

 

[brian]

Any help would be great.

Take it off and throw it far as you possibly can.

 

[charliemeyer007]

The car is a system and everything needs to be operating correctly for it to run well. Vacuum leaks have a much greater effect at idle than at wide open throttle. Start a cold engine with choke on and fast idle set - take a can of WD40 with the pee tube and lightly and quickly spray along/around the intake manifold gasket - any kick up in rpm's means its leaking there. Then do the carb levels and the base. Put a pair of hemostats on the brake booster hose - does it run better - more braking effort on the pedal is required while the hose is clamped off. Get no reaction to any of that, then vac leak less likely.

Old gas - new stuff might last a few months without treatment. Yellow bottle gas dryer and PRI-G are my go to's.

Mixture, idle set, float level set out of whack - system runs poorly. Low compression from rings/valves, wrong timing, weak coil, old wires, plugs could affect the spark.

Not a black box or a Weber guy.

Its very easy to bend some of the adjustment rods, sometimes a gasket looks like it could fit either way but it really only works correctly one way as the wrong way covers up some small passage way. Then there are the gorrolia people that screw the needles is so hard they put rings on the needle stems and damage the seat - yes you can for adjust that (hypersensitive) but it like 1/64 of a turn will take it out of whack, whereas without that damage it took 1/8 of a turn would throw it out. Carb work isn't for everybody, sort of like working on pocket watches.

 

[Av8erB]

Take it off and throw it far as you possibly can

The car is a system and everything needs to be operating correctly for it to run well. Vacuum leaks have a much greater effect at idle than at wide open throttle. Start a cold engine with choke on and fast idle set - take a can of WD40 with the pee tube and lightly and quickly spray along/around the intake manifold gasket - any kick up in rpm's means its leaking there. Then do the carb levels and the base. Put a pair of hemostats on the brake booster hose - does it run better - more braking effort on the pedal is required while the hose is clamped off. Get no reaction to any of that, then vac leak less likely.

Old gas - new stuff might last a few months without treatment. Yellow bottle gas dryer and PRI-G are my go to's.

Mixture, idle set, float level set out of whack - system runs poorly. Low compression from rings/valves, wrong timing, weak coil, old wires, plugs could affect the spark.

Not a black box or a Weber guy.

Its very easy to bend some of the adjustment rods, sometimes a gasket looks like it could fit either way but it really only works correctly one way as the wrong way covers up some small passage way. Then there are the gorrolia people that screw the needles is so hard they put rings on the needle stems and damage the seat - yes you can for adjust that (hypersensitive) but it like 1/64 of a turn will take it out of whack, whereas without that damage it took 1/8 of a turn would throw it out. Carb work isn't for everybody, sort of like working on pocket watches.

Well this all sounds fun. I think it's supposed to rain tomorrow so I'll try and tick some things off this list.

 

[charliemeyer007]

I loaned my big A frame and chainfalls to a friend who was a hydraulics' guy. He pulled the engine out of the o'ladies jeep I6 and fixed what ever she broke. He decided to do the carb while he was at it. I stop by a few days later and the jeep would start and die unless it was running close to wide open. I grabbed a can of WD40 and started the test - when I hit one of the carb layers it kick up. We took the carb off and inspected the joint line on the body. One side clearly wasn't mated. Taking it apart there was a little tube that would stick down threw the gasket to the next level. Well he put the gasket on backwards and the hole for the tube was on the wrong side - the units didn't mate correctly - had he been a gorrolia at tightening stuff up - he could have damaged the body, tube or gasket. We just flipped it around and put it all back together. In an a hour or so the car ran great and moma was very happy. This was pre-internet, no help lines or vids; you were lucky to have a book.

 

[Grayscale]

I tried a DGV or DGEV on my 2F, one afternoon. It is too small of a carb for the engine. I could make it idle, it was too sensitive to throttle, and would buck the engine.

Sounds spark related, or something is interfering with the idle circuit in the DGAV.

 

[dazerb]

Webers are sensitive. I had the 32/36 but went up to the 38/38. I think my reasoning was I needed more air flow since all my wheeling is aver 4,000 feet. Have to be jetted correctly for your altitude.
I also have DUI ignition. 74 stock 1.5F
I believe the 32/36 operates with dedicated idle circuit with the throttle plates CLOSED completely just like the 38/38. Do you have a copy of the adjustment procedure? Think it's on weber site. You gotta follow their procedure.
IME, I struggled to dial in the carb and the timing UNTIL: I ADJUSTED MY VALVES. All of a sudden, that idle screw was sensitive and my timing marks MEANT something. I had LOOSE valves, TIGHT valves and thus timing was a scattershot experience.
It's running quieter with more power now. As long as I have fuel, LOL. (just replaced all lines and tank with OEM)
ALSO, I was running way too rich with the 38/38 on mech pump and added an adjustable fuel regulator to dial the pressure from 7-8 down to 3-4. This is a topic of debate however.
RIP Weber Sarge.

 

[Av8erB]

Problem solved gents!!! I was adjusting some things and decided to pull the jets. Lo and behold, the primary had gunk stuck in it. I'm not sure why so many people say the 32/36 is under power for the 2f. I have a 70 jet in the primary and a 60 in the secondary. All the adjustment screws are very much within specifications (I just checked). The engine runs great now and had before I rebuild the carb...

 

[Grayscale]

Glad it is working.

So, I have some Weber 32/36 experience. I run one on my Datsun, which came with a carb of similar choke / Venturi (the smallest cross-section of carburetor throat), and function - they are employ progressive-opening secondary. The Datsun carb is perfectly paired to the engine, aside from it using an annoying electric choke. The Datsun carb has what my engine needs right now, a vacuum-actuated secondary. Imagine you are passing someone on the highway. You can mash the throttle pedal, but, with the Weber and its mechanically actuated secondary, it is very possilble that the throttle will open up beyond what vacuum the engine vacuum the motor can make under a particular load. At that point on the Weber where the secondary opens too much, the carburetor begins to lean-out the mix, the combustion chamber gets excessively hot, and the engine isn't producing as much power as it should. I know this, and I go for less throttle on the highway, but, that is kinda hard to do when I'm trying to pass a slow vehicle. But, the original carb that came with the Datsun, and the Land Cruiser, they both had vacuum-actuated secondaries. You can stomp on the gas pedal, but, if the vacuum isn't being produced by the engine, the carb can't open up the throttle plate in the secondary, beyond a certain point, and the engine maintains optimum performance, regardless of engine-load. So, a vacuum secondary is perfect, as you don't need feedback from the motor, you just drive.

 

[Av8erB]

Glad it is working.

So, I have some Weber 32/36 experience. I run one on my Datsun, which came with a carb of similar choke / Venturi (the smallest cross-section of carburetor throat), and function - they are employ progressive-opening secondary. The Datsun carb is perfectly paired to the engine, aside from it using an annoying electric choke. The Datsun carb has what my engine needs right now, a vacuum-actuated secondary. Imagine you are passing someone on the highway. You can mash the throttle pedal, but, with the Weber and its mechanically actuated secondary, it is very possilble that the throttle will open up beyond what vacuum the engine vacuum the motor can make under a particular load. At that point on the Weber where the secondary opens too much, the carburetor begins to lean-out the mix, the combustion chamber gets excessively hot, and the engine isn't producing as much power as it should. I know this, and I go for less throttle on the highway, but, that is kinda hard to do when I'm trying to pass a slow vehicle. But, the original carb that came with the Datsun, and the Land Cruiser, they both had vacuum-actuated secondaries. You can stomp on the gas pedal, but, if the vacuum isn't being produced by the engine, the carb can't open up the throttle plate in the secondary, beyond a certain point, and the engine maintains optimum performance, regardless of engine-load. So, a vacuum secondary is perfect, as you don't need feedback from the motor, you just drive.

Wow I wasn't expecting such a great reply. It was like a perfect, explain like I'm 5 explanation, which I needed. The only problem is, now you make me want to ditch the carb.

 

[knuckle47]

My Weber story is a bit different… from day 1 it had a flat spot in acceleration almost as if the accelerator pump was failing. After a very long story of switching to a Holley EFI, it was likely my timing with my DUI was really the culprit by not being advanced enough…$$$ fix but, it does start and run like a modern fuel injected car….in seconds