It happened to me...Loose then broken knuckle studs. (1 Viewer)

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enox

enox

Joined
Mar 12, 2018
Threads
31
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Location
Los Angeles, CA
Brake fluid flush/ fill yesterday, when laying underneath the front I noticed on the passenger side there was a gap between the knuckle and bottom of the axle.

Put a 17mm on the nut and found that they were finger tight 😬

Started tightening up and BAM, with little pressure the (2) forward studs broke, nut, washer, cone and stud remnant fell out. 😭

Tightened up the (2) on the rear and made the 20mi trek home. Also noticed the steering wheel being slightly off center since I tightened those (2) remaining nuts.

Drivers side was tight and did not come loose.

I should probably replace all (8) of those studs, cones, washers and nuts...
 
landtank said:
You might consider my High Strength studs. I can get them headed your way today in time fir this weekend.
Click to expand...
awe these are awesome, thanks for letting me know you make these!

I ordered the full set for both sides from my local Toyota for ~54.00 and will have it this afternoon, then replace and re-align. Get ready for this weekend, I will keep yours in mind for next rebuild! :cheers:
 
enox said:
awe these are awesome, thanks for letting me know you make these!

I ordered the full set for both sides from my local Toyota for ~54.00 and will have it this afternoon, then replace and re-align. Get ready for this weekend, I will keep yours in mind for next rebuild! :cheers:
Click to expand...
Yup, Was going to tell you most of the dealers in LA can get these in same day. Been there done that. If in a total pinch, I also carry a few spares if needed.

Check yer nutz!
 
midfat said:
Yup, Was going to tell you most of the dealers in LA can get these in same day. Been there done that. If in a total pinch, I also carry a few spares if needed.

Check yer nutz!
Click to expand...
Thank you @midfat .... I should have seen it coming...even saw a YouTube video the other day where someone was randomly checking and those were loose, should have walked out and checked that day but hey...at least I found it with only having (2) break..could have been much worse
 
* Disclaimer- The following pic may be too graphic for some viewers, proceed with caution.

PXL_20210802_213051191.jpg


To make you feel better after seeing that - here's the part numbers from Mr.T

Stud - 90126-12010
Cone - 42323-60020
Washer - 90201-12019
Nut - 94115-71200
 
You are lucky you caught that when you did. ARP studs from Front Range off-Road. Torque to 120lbft.
 
enox said:
* Disclaimer- The following pic may be too graphic for some viewers, proceed with caution.

View attachment 2748548

To make you feel better after seeing that - here's the part numbers from Mr.T

Stud - 90126-12010
Cone - 42323-60020
Washer - 90201-12019
Nut - 94115-71200
Click to expand...
I caught mine at work one day.

Two had fallen out, one was broke off, the last one was almost ready to fall out.

I snugged it up and drove VERY gingerly on my way home.

I installed new ones the next day, but then I installed all new again when I rebuilt the front axle two months later.
 
I had one break recently out wheeling. Got home and two were finger tight on the passenger side. Upgraded all 8 with ARP studs and saved the 7 I pulled out for spares. I think upgrading to ARP is well worth the money!
 
If you own a cruiser long enough it becomes a regular check. Often an oil leak is the first indication. You can fabricate a locker for the nuts. Worst case scenario you can nick a couple of studs from the opposite side.
 
It seems prudent to draw a yellow paint line with a paint marker through the nut and stud after proper installation/torque, so that subsequent visual inspections are quick and easy. Just a thought.
 
bicycleagent003 said:
It seems prudent to draw a yellow paint line with a paint marker through the nut and stud after proper installation/torque, so that subsequent visual inspections are quick and easy. Just a thought.
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This is what I did. I used yellow torque stripe goo that comes in a tube sort of like anti-seize. Put it on after I torqued everything with clean hardware. Now I just give it a visual inspection every so often. Of one of those yellow lines is broken, I'll know I have a problem.
 
bicycleagent003 said:
It seems prudent to draw a yellow paint line with a paint marker through the nut and stud after proper installation/torque, so that subsequent visual inspections are quick and easy. Just a thought.
Click to expand...
I did this with yellow paint pen and the marks eventually wore off. I decided counted the threads that protrude through the nuts (pretty much all the same). I do a thread count and retorque the nuts prior to every wheeling trip.
 
baldilocks said:
I did this with yellow paint pen and the marks eventually wore off. I decided counted the threads that protrude through the nuts (pretty much all the same). I do a thread count and retorque the nuts prior to every wheeling trip.
Click to expand...
Just for reference, the torque stripe stuff is NOT a paint pen. That crap sticks to anything and it won't wear off unless you drag those studs across something in a very aggressive manner. In normal driving conditions it will last quite a while. I put mine on about 10 months ago and it hasn't budged.
 
Wrencher93 said:
Just for reference, the torque stripe stuff is NOT a paint pen. That crap sticks to anything and it won't wear off unless you drag those studs across something in a very aggressive manner. In normal driving conditions it will last quite a while. I put mine on about 10 months ago and it hasn't budged.
Click to expand...
As an A&P I’ve seen truck loads of torque stripe goop. The point of my post was that, ultimately, I decided to do closer visual inspections coupled with timely retorques for 100% verification of fastener security.
 
Last edited:
baldilocks said:
As an A&P I’ve seen truck loads torque stripe goop. The point of my post was that, ultimately, decided to do closer visual inspections coupled with timely retorques for 100% verification of fastener security.
Click to expand...
I wasn't questioning your method, just clarifying for others who may not know what we're talking about. I agree that routine visual inspection and re-torque are good practices.
 
Marking them still requires you to be disciplined to visually inspect them regularly.

I like Joey's nut hugger idea. Or safety wire.

I bought new hardware for mine, I'll be redoing mine while my truck is off the road for other work.
Will probably wire them.
 
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