isuzu 4BD1T swap?! (5 Viewers)

[orangefj45]

the biggest reason why an A440 series auto would ever need a rebuild is because the splines on the output shaft wear out. besides that, they're as close to bullet proof as an auto gets.
one other problem though: not too many "rebuilders" actually know all that much about rebuilding them. they just last too long for anybody to get lots of practice building them.......

 

[rtarh2o]

I would look into the cost of the A440 rebuild, if I already had one I probably would have gone that route. In my case I had the A442 so I was going to have to buy the A440 and have it rebuilt. The 700R4's were not very good when they first came out, especially with the torque of the diesel. Since then the problems have been fixed with the heavy duty rebuild kits. I know a guy who uses one in his truck he hauls cars with and he says he gets about 200,000 miles out of them. I actually bought mine from the guy who builds his for him.
You can buy a rebuilt 700R4 for around $1,000, not sure how much more the A440 rebuild is going to cost you but I don't think you can get it rebuilt for anywhere near that. Probably for the cost of the A440 rebuild you can buy a 700R4 and the adapter to install it. I don't anticipate any problems with the 700R4 but at least I know if anything happens I can go to any transmission shop and get it fixed quickly for not much money.
I think you will be ok either way you go, good luck.
Rusty

 

[88tlc]

isuzu diesel in 88tlc

isuzu diesel, 4L60, toyota transfer case is in the engine compartment.

I have been busy getting it to run, but wanted to fill in some of the steps

andre dieselcruiserhead helped me with the mounts. we got these in place, and they look great. we added a small gusset on the frame pads for extra strength.

using the stock crossmember, in stock location, dropped about 1.25 inches. the adapter has a different hole pattern, presumably for a trans mount from a fj60. I found one of these unique style of these that fits the fj62 crossmember flat bottom, and a fj60 upper v shaped. it still did not fit, it was like a half a hole off, and no extra material for custom fitting. I question if one set of holes are off - the adapter or the mount.

So, with modification required regardless, I used the fj62 mount, and welded a strap to this to mount about 1 inch farther back.

 

[88tlc]

4L60 transmission hookups

the 4l60 transmission requires only a key few hookups to the landcruiser.

1. shifter linkage - I was successful in using the stock shifter, and the stock linkage bell cranks. the only mod was lengthening the linkage, and revising the trans bell crank to fit on the larger diameter shifter shaft. the gating, and the length of the linkage arms stayed the same! the gear positions is very similar between 440f and 4l60. some items I learned along the way to pass on. start at neutral for lining up the shifter and the trans shifting, to get the most accurate location. for fine tuning, use the bolt that attaches the shifter lever, to the bell crank going through the floor.

2. the TV cable - like most auto trans, the TV throttle valve requires a linkage to the throttle. I had to modify the isuzu throttle linkage to get more travel, as the isuzu throttle travel, from idle to FWO is 30 mm, the TV cable travel is 40mm. so we simply added a bracket to increase the radius, thus adding a longer arc.

3. Lockup - this requires only power, and the ground then needs to go through a brake switch. a new switch is required, a fj80 cruise control style switch. this switch is really two switches - when the brake is pushed, the brake light cirquit is completed, the cruise (or in my case the lockup cirquit) is opened.

4. coolant lines - I used the existing lines as they are burly 10mm lines. i had to adapt to the trans though, they were a smaller 5/16 line connector. I had the evco house of hose guys make some hydraulic lines, and then had to use a steel compression fitting.

 

[88tlc]

isuzu diesel in 88tlc - plumbing

this is some of the most difficult issues to resolve for me. the landcruiser as I understand uses different fittings and lines, than the isuzu. the 4l60 was yet another standard.

1. powersteering - utilized most of the landcruiser lines, with a flex line to the isuzu hard line. I used a compression fitting using a steel ring instead of a brass one, and did very well. this also helps in reducing issues with biodiesel and veg oil reacting with brass.

2. trans coolant - hydraulic flex line used to toyota lines, but had to remove the fittings, and replace with compression fittings.

3. fuel line - I used the hard steel lines already in place, and added a crimped on fitting to the isuzu banjo fitting. i also removed the fuel pump in the tank. i added a inline fuel pump, i will add other photos of this. I only have the one isuzu fuel filter inline at the moment.

4. vacuum - easy from vac pump to brake booster, and 4wd control, see electrical photos.

 

[88tlc]

isuzu diesel in 88tlc - electrical

I used many of orangefj45, aka astr suggestions and knowledge to figure out the electrical.

1. alternator - i took apart the toyota alternator connector, and replaces the spade connector into the isuzu connector. it clicks into place and looks factory!

2. batteries - made a battery box, and installed two batteries, using cable that I could but adding some new from the battery to the starter. also looks factory.

that is where the factory look ends!

3. oil sending - ripped the wire out of the harness and used current oil sending unit. do I trust a 20 year old sending unit from the landcruiser engine? it works, but i question the sending unit. NOTE: this is also a slightly different thread - like a 10mm thread, instead of a NPT thread.

4. water temp - found the wire, and connected to the temp sending unit.

5. glow plugs - i have a simple push on switch for glowplugs, and a relay to send juice to the glowplugs.

Still to work on....
6. isuzu shut off -- I have the shut off enrichment motor, but since astr has not figured out how to incorporate into a landcruiser ignition switch, I have not installed. I have a manual shut off cable, installed where the throttle cable used to be.

7. tach - I intend to use a Autometer tach, using a alternator pick up, and install the tach into the current hole.

8. terminating harness - what should I do with all the rest? I lopped the rest of the wires off , what is best for terminating? liquid tape, or pull them into the cabin? it is ugly at the moment, but runs!

9. reverse lights? - the landcruiser had the neutral switch and reverse lights switch on the trans. not the 4l60. i looped the neutral, but how do I rig up reverse lights?

 

[88tlc]

isuzu diesel in 88tlc - injection pump timing

we tried to start the isuzu engine on 12.15.2007. it ran, but poorly. this was a rebuilt motor, rebuilt injectors, but I left the injection pump, idler gear, and cam shaft and gear all connected and in place during the rebuild. I inquired about the usual suspects, and dougal encouraged me to make sure all air is out of the highpressure side. we would open the lines to the injectors, but small improvement.

The injection timing was off. we opened the injection pump timing cover and at 13 degrees before TDC the injection pump should be timed with this mark. it looked to be 15 degrees late, or injecting after the piston was past TDC.

So, my father and I regrouped and decided to rip into the timing cover. we only removed the Power steering pump, and alt belt. tooking the timing cover off, crank pulley, and found the injection pump off like 90 degrees! this job would have been much easier on the engine stand, but with the isuzu factory stamping on the idler 'A', 'B', and 'C' , matched to the crank, cam and injection pump respectively, we were able to correct the problem. I will never assume again!

we also added a low pressure Mallory Fuel Pump. incremental, but for cold weather and biofuels, this would help to make sure the IP is always getting fuel.

 

[88tlc]

isuzu diesel in 88tlc - the landcruiser is alive!

after fixing the injection timing, the isuzu started very quickly. after warming up, there was no smoke, and would idle nicely.

As in all projects like this, the first time it moves on its own power is monumental. My father and I went for a little test drive out on the rural roads, with no exhaust line or muffler, no grille and no hood, no fan.

all systems go... the gauges worked except the tach, the trans shifted well, it had a nice low rpm in overdrive at 60mph. oil pressure check, charging check.....

we stopped and found a couple trans hose leaks, and noticed the front drive line has 'touched' the adapter. luckily the front driveline was spinning so did not eccentric load the drive line. this picture shows some whacking my father did, and there is still some material there that can and should be removed.

the new springs also settled in. the oil pan will require a mod in the future- I would like to move the drainplug to the driver side, and reshape the passenger side of the pan to provide more clearance to the differential. it is off to the side, but only 1/2 inch away.

exhaust will be tight - but have successfully got the full exhaust installed with adequate room.

 

[88tlc]

isuzu diesel in 88tlc - put back together

I had to finish putting the landcruiser back together, just so I don't lose the bolts!

So I got the grille, lights, and hood on, and while i was at it, I installed the new ARB Dakar bumper.

it is a sweet bumper, and installed easily. I justified this by driving the road from Park city, to heber so often. there always deer dead on this road, Elk, and sometimes Moose! it is like running the gauntlet, unfortunately for us, and for the poor deer.

So the ARB bumper is about the cost of my deductible, and more proactive. i would hate some Buck deer smashing up the fj62, and I have to start all over!

still more projects

1. intake hose routing - land cruiser filter housing, and intakehoses.com

2. fan - still not sure if I will use electrical Ford taurus fan, or the landcruiser fan, on the isuzu water pump.

3. 4wd Hi - Lo shifter - this requires a connection to the trans, I have an idea, but it involves JB Weld! I need to think on that one for a bit yet.

4. boost gage, oil pressure gage, auto trans temp gage.....

 

[PurpleFJ62]

looks great!! Its cool to see someone moving forward with this swap. As uasual school has consumed my life, so the land cruiser has to wait.

I am very intrested so hear what your feelings will be after 1000 or so miles.

congrats on the swap

 

[88tlc]

isuzu diesel in 88tlc - exhaust system

Andre and i work in a shop that is in Heber Utah, that's pronounced Heeber. It is a small town with a couple parts shops, a couple auto body shops, and one real muffler shop.

I gave this guy the shot to install the exhaust system. since i got this engine already pulled from the truck, i had no parts but the flange, and the exhaust brake.

he used 2.5 inch exhaust pipe, and a good welded diesel muffler. normal steel. all isolated hangers.

he added the jake brake just before the muffler, I still need the magnetic valve that controls the vacuum to the physical valve. this valve took 3 months of cooking in the sauce before it would bust loose. It works smoothly now , I hope it will last. how cool to have a jake brake on a landcruiser?!

 

[astr]

Congratulation! Looks like you have done a super job. While some of us talk about doing the swap, you went and did it! You provide inspiration for the rest of us.

Glad to see you installed the exhaust brake - I think you'll love it.

Please post your impressions after you get some miles on it.

 

[euclid]

3. 4wd Hi - Lo shifter - this requires a connection to the trans, I have an idea, but it involves JB Weld! I need to think on that one for a bit yet.

Make the t-case fully manual. Git rid of the vacuum shifter.

See here

Looks great. Very very cool that it's running.

I'd love to see the budget when you are done.

 

[RHINO]

awsome another isuzu powered cruiser on the road,, congrats !!!.

 

[88tlc]

isuzu diesel in 88tlc - intake and vibration

getting the intake worked out.

using the stock fj62 filter, but it has a square receiver. i welded up a square plate to 3 inch pipe, and then will have some hose and pipe from

www.intakehoses.com

to obtain this general shape.

been driving with this mockup intake, and the engine has a good vibration that resonates through the vehicle. make the change rattle in the ashtray sort of vibration.

thoughts?

flywheel out of balance? - there is a pin still in the flywheel from the clutch plate, is the fly wheel balanced with our without the pin?

adapter balance - there was a casting flaw that I noticed on the Isuzu Diesel Swapper. it is near the center, but is this enough to throw it off balance? The adapter centers onto the bearing in the crankshaft when installing, key to get it within .005 " of center.

harmonic dampener. i have read a bit about the diesel spike, from the large power spikes in the diesel engine. most diesels have a harmonic damper, a fluid filled damper that reduces this. does the isuzu have this diesel spike issue?


http://www.dynadroitclutches.com/vibration_damper.html

Engine mounts - the vibration should still be dampened through the mounts, right? i used the ford, fluid filled mounts.

Any thoughts or suggestions on the vibration?

 

[Dougal]

What mounts do you have on the other end of the drivetrain?

My vehicle uses 3" round by 1.5" thick industrial rubber isolators for engine mounts and they work very well. They're mounted at 60 deg (30 deg off vertical) which is similar to the geometry Isuzu use in their truck engine mounts.
At idle the engine vibrates about 10mm on it's mounts and doesn't rattle the rest of the vehicle much at all.

I'm not a fan of flat engine mounts. Rubber absorbs vibration best in shear, not the vertical compression/extension that it's put under when mounts are flat like that.

Diesels use a heavier flywheel to smooth out the crank pulses, the front drive pulley on mine (it's JDM spec, 24v and single V belt) appears to be two piece with rubber between in a harmonic damper fashion, but you'd have to cut one apart to know for sure.
But a crankshaft damper won't help the vehicle shaking. My flywheel had two 6mm pins 180 deg apart for clutch location. Is it those you refer to?

 

[RHINO]

i dont know about the vibes,,, mine is really smooth. but i used the stock isuzu motor mounts which are at shear like dougal mentions, maybe it really does help?

does the flywheel have only one pin?? i would pull it out. i dont think the casting flaw is a problem. you might want to check IP timing again.

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

My thought on it is something driveline related.. The question is whether the vibration happens when the vehicle is in motion. I do not think it is the isolators we used.. It could be a light flywheel out of balance issue too as there is about 20mm of broken off bolt in one hole (that is not used with the auto-flywheel adapter. Or it could (doubtfully) be a adapter machining issue.

My guess is about 90% oriented towards the driveshaft. We have about a 1-2 degree drop from the fornt of the engine to the back. Longer shackles in the rear or gulp, Bill might need to get a CV added to the rear driveshaft...

But that is my thought for now...

Also Bill I was down briefly last night, looks great and nice to see it all dialed up. I was temped to fire it up. I can make it down Fri or Sat for finish up and to get it ready to get it out of there...

 

[ThePookieBear]

So, if one was to make a 4BD1/2T-a440 adaptor would it just need to be a plate machined to allow the tranny to bolt up to the engine. Then you would need the custom torque converter from australia right? What kind of spacing would this require? And if I remember what the tranny guy from australia said it would need the auto flexplate. Is that correct? If I could get accurate measurements for the a440 and the engine housing I have a friend who says his boss wouldn't mind making them for the cost of materials and stuff. I'm not sure if I understand all the intricate details exactly, but basically you need an adaptor like the isuzudieselswapper one, but for the a440 right? I would like to try and move forward a bit on this. His boss said he needs more info, and I told him I would look into it and ask around with some "friends of mine."

 

[88tlc]

4bd1t engine vibration

thanks for all the replies.

The engine vibrates at idle to like 1500rpm, I am working to get the tach in to check the rpms. I think the idle rpms are low, and could suggest incorrect IP timing.

at power and cruising down the road the vibration is the least noticed.

cruising it can vibrate, kind of coasting.

Dougal - there are in fact two pins 180 degrees from each other. I left them both in the flywheel. I also twisted off a bolt in the flywheel at the clutch attachment, but also added another bolt stud, cut off and a slot to screw it in 180 degrees. so I think the flywheel is balanced. at rpm I would expect a flywheel issue to get worse.

I also agree that the mounts should be in shear, and should do a better job of isolating. trans mount is original fj62 mount.

rhino - I agree with you about the IP, I have not yet checked the IP timing. I have it correct relative to the gear, and cam, but can check that #1 fuel is injected at 13 degrees b4 TDC. It can be 2 or 3 degrees off and make a big difference. You can micro adjust then by loosening the IP mounting bolts and rotate to correct timing. I assumed this was correct, but I now want to check it.


Andre, I dont think the driveline is the issue. it vibrates at idle, or not in gear.