Builds Isuzu 4BD1T Lexus LX450 (Land Cruiser) Build (2 Viewers)

[dohcdelsol93]

you should have an issue in power compared to the gasser.

In the fj60 the 4bd1t in stock form was a power upgrade from the 2f and the 2f i had was a very strong runner. it was very nice to do 70 on the free way and pull hills that had would slow me down to 55-60 with the 2f


For that matter, the 4bd2t is a work horse compared to the stock chevy 305 i pulled out in the fj40, i don't even need to describe how the 305 felt compared to the F that was in there the day i got the 40.

 

[warezdog]

Should be conservatively 2x the torque.

Ill get it on the same dyno I used to baseline the 1FZ so there is a fair comparison and hard numbers.

Wow I didn't think it would be that much! You said you had a second tran on deck just in case, and you were going to beef it up, what did you have in mind?

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Yeah it should be ok, all of that torque will be available at 1800-2000rpm as well.

No real set plans on the 2nd transmission yet. Probably ad a few extra clutch's to the packs as well as a full rebuild.


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[Wheelingnoob]

So this weekend is all about truck and getting this swap back on track. I have the finished adapter now and the only thing keeping this from getting done is time.

I started last night by replacing my rear main seal with a Isuzu rear main Repair kit. This kit has a 5mm sleeve that presses on over the crank and a seal that is 5mm larger. This basically repairs the seal groove worn in the crank from the old seal.



Then I started final assembly of the flywheel area.





You'll see I did not end up using the cut down flex plate. It was just far too flimsy and I did not feel comfortable using it. It was like a wet noodle and I could bend it by hand. So I am going to use an un modified flex plate.

After that was done I pre filled my
freshly rebuilt converter 5oz at a time (took an hour for 3L). Put on a new transmission input seal as well. Slid in the new converter and bolted on the adapter this time with lock tight on all the bolts.

To facilitate bolting the converter to the flex plate I notched the cast steel engine bell to correspond notch in the aluminum bell. No pictures of it yet but will get some tomorrow.

Bolted the converter to the flex-plate and got this done.



Got the power steering hooked up and bled. Most the heater lines are done, I changed those up again as well. Tomorrow I hope to get the trans cooler lines made/run. Then move onto the wiring, would like to get it to the point tomorrow where I can test fire it in the truck, using the key.



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[Mr Cimarron]

Glad to see you are back at it and getting close to finishing. Looking good.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Glad to see you are back at it and getting close to finishing. Looking good.

Thanks! Glad to see yours going, sounds great.


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[lostih]

So you decided against the cut down flex plate eh? I agree it lost tons of rigidity once the ring gear was chopped. I have convinced myself that perhaps the torque converter will keep it straight. Hmm. I suppose I can try it and find out

Looks awesome sitting in there! Is there any chance of reusing the factory motor mounts on the frame or should I just lop them off before even test fitting the engine tomorrow? It looks like they'd be way too high.

I'm really happy to see this coming together! Can't wait to hear how your day goes tomorrow!


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[lostih]

Sorry...one other question...on the rear main seal kit...did you get that at Nalley and do you have to pull that rear cover to stick it on or can you do it with that in place? I think I'm gonna do mine before it all goes together.



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[Wheelingnoob]

Today I got the transmission cooler lines started. I connected the lines on the transmission and bent and worked them to fit where I need them. Bit of a pain in the ass but I got them shaped so they are not contacting anything. I do need to secure and protect them in a few spots. Could not go any further than that on the cooler lines today with out a rivnut tool.

I then moved onto the trans dip stick tube and locating it to the Isuzu engine. Was fairly straight forward but required more bending and tweaking.


Really running out of room on that side of the engine, have very little room for my coolant and trans filters.


On the transmission filter I had wanted to set it up as a bypass filter
system so a small amount of fluid goes through it. Issue is I can take the feed off the hot line from the cooler but where does it return to the system. I had thought about returning it to the trans pan but did not want to weld a bung to it and have a possible leak. So other thought is returning it to the return (cold side) of the cooler circuit. Worry with that is will I actually get flow through the filter setup that way? Im not sure there will be a large enough pressure differential to push fluid through the filter.

Anyone have any ideas?








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[Wheelingnoob]

So you decided against the cut down flex plate eh? I agree it lost tons of rigidity once the ring gear was chopped. I have convinced myself that perhaps the torque converter will keep it straight. Hmm. I suppose I can try it and find out

Looks awesome sitting in there! Is there any chance of reusing the factory motor mounts on the frame or should I just lop them off before even test fitting the engine tomorrow? It looks like they'd be way too high.

I'm really happy to see this coming together! Can't wait to hear how your day goes tomorrow!


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I tried to use the stock mounts but they are too high and I set up my adapter to tilt the engine 5* to the passenger side.

Yes Im happy to have it underway again. Progress tomorrow will be minor, Im working.

The crank kit I installed simply by removing the old rear main seal, and sliding the crank sleeve on then the new rear main. The sleeve needs to be pressed on so make sure you have something to do that with first. I got the kit from Nally Isuzu, it took a ton of research to find the correct parts.


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[Wheelingnoob]

Dropped my Tcase and 3:1 gears off today to get installed. No way I will have time to install them before I leave and I need that Tcase in the truck to move it out of the shop.


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[lostih]

Hey I'm working on motor placement today. Would you mind measuring the distance from your crank center to drivers frame rail? I think I like where I'm at but want to make sure it's not too crazy far off


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[Wheelingnoob]

Sure, I'm working though can measure tonight.


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[gerg]

That looks great Jerms. You could put your bypass tranny filter thing on hold a just fit a magnefine inline filter in the mean time. Cheap and super easy to install and you could do the bypass after your driving it.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Hey I'm working on motor placement today. Would you mind measuring the distance from your crank center to drivers frame rail? I think I like where I'm at but want to make sure it's not too crazy far off


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12.5" from drivers side frame rail. 13.2" from passenger. Remember I have my engine tilted 5* towards the pass side. Not sure if it makes a difference.




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[Wheelingnoob]

That looks great Jerms. You could put your bypass tranny filter thing on hold a just fit a magnefine inline filter in the mean time. Cheap and super easy to install and you could do the bypass after your driving it.

Yeah I had thought about that too. I think I may do a slightly larger filter and head that has a built in bypass if the filter plugs.


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[lostih]

12.5" from drivers side frame rail. 13.2" from passenger. Remember I have my engine tilted 5* towards the pass side. Not sure if it makes a difference.




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Awesome! I think mine was at 12.75" when it was in there for the trial fit. I'm tilting mine the 5 degrees as well.

Earlier you posted that you regretted not measuring the stock 1FZE offset...I know you are way past that...but if you are still wondering it was 11.875 from the driver's side and around 14 from passenger.

You were right on the angled flange being a no go...have to find a new turbine housing it looks like. Thanks for the measurement! I suppose for completeness and if you are still there...what's your distance from crank pulley down to the crossbrace? I think I'm similar to yours based on your pics with finger clearance between PS hose and cross brace, but I'm not sure if you've moved your motor since then.

 

[gerg]

The magnefine has a bypass valve built into it. Although it mentions 3 micron filtration as being a great bennifit, I doesn't state it's nominal first pass filtration rate. Has a magnet too. I'm going to be changing mine soon and will post up pics after I take it apart. Running redline synthetic ATF this last year and did a full Dino ATF flush before putting in the synthetic and filter.
http://www.magnefinefilters.com
g

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Awesome! I think mine was at 12.75" when it was in there for the trial fit. I'm tilting mine the 5 degrees as well.

Earlier you posted that you regretted not measuring the stock 1FZE offset...I know you are way past that...but if you are still wondering it was 11.875 from the driver's side and around 14 from passenger.

You were right on the angled flange being a no go...have to find a new turbine housing it looks like. Thanks for the measurement! I suppose for completeness and if you are still there...what's your distance from crank pulley down to the crossbrace? I think I'm similar to yours based on your pics with finger clearance between PS hose and cross brace, but I'm not sure if you've moved your motor since then.

Good to know its fairly close to stock. Makes drive line angle and joints less grumpy.

I have 2.75" from crank damper to crossmember. E


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[Wheelingnoob]

The magnefine has a bypass valve built into it. Although it mentions 3 micron filtration as being a great bennifit, I doesn't state it's nominal first pass filtration rate. Has a magnet too. I'm going to be changing mine soon and will post up pics after I take it apart. Running redline synthetic ATF this last year and did a full Dino ATF flush before putting in the synthetic and filter.
http://www.magnefinefilters.com
g

Ok I'm going to give one of those a shot, its a hell of a lot better than nothing. I plan to run dino ATF in mine as well and let that filter work for a month of driving then flush with Synthetic if all is well. Where did you get yours?

Thanks


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