- Thread starter
- #601
Identical other than the top outlet and rad cap are on opposite sides. The FJ60 rad is the one you want its got the outlet on the correct side, I need to get mine swapped.
Builds Isuzu 4BD1T Lexus LX450 (Land Cruiser) Build (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Wheelingnoob
- Start date
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Identical other than the top outlet and rad cap are on opposite sides. The FJ60 rad is the one you want its got the outlet on the correct side, I need to get mine swapped.
Out of curiosity why did you remove you headlights?
- Thread starter
- #604
No point keeping them in, just susceptible to damage. I also was planing on changing the rad support.
- Thread starter
- #605
Yesterday was a good day, I find these fabrication days get eaten up by staring at things trying to figure out how to mount something or run something.
Yesterday I was able to get the top of the rad and intercooler mounting fabricated. I am using the stock upper rad mounts off the rad support and building from there. My hope is that the upper intercooler support will also be the upper rad support. Its out to get welded today. I was not able to get the lower made since I did not have the rad here its out getting the fill and inlet swapped and boiled over. I got a call this morning that its done.
I then moved onto heater hoses. I was able to get them all made with the help of some copper plumbing and a few 90* molded rubber bends. I have not hooked up the rear heat for now, I am going to run the hoses for it bit cap them for the time being. I reversed the flow through the heater core as well since it made the plumbing much easier. I also was able to add an inlet for the 1500W circulating block heater. It takes to cold water out of the block drain and heats it then sends it up to the heater inlet line to the engine and heater core. It it works correctly I should have instant heat in the winter and a engine at almost operating temp.
I then moved onto fuel water separator and PCV separator, I am thinking a bracket off the fire wall lip like Doug did makes the most sense. I just need to make it up and make a few reinforcing brackets, not sure that lip will support 10-15lbs hanging off of it with some leverage.
For the PCV I plan to make a higher volume more efficient oil air separator that will allow the outlet to be run into the pre-turbo intake. This will be much better for the environment and also get rid of the smell. I'll be making that up next week I hope.
I then looked at the PS resivor and where to mount it, stumped to be honest. Thinking maybe the front of the engine beside the fuel filter on the engine. Anywhere else its hard to run the lines or its in the way of the intercooler pipe run.
I also ordered a 2.31-2.5" cobra head intake yesterday along with a 2.5-3" rubber 90* and a 3" rubber hump hose for the air filter to turbo connection. The outlet for the air filter housing is 3.5" so I need to make a reducer to 3" Other than that it should be fairly straight forward albeit tight around the turbo.
AC lines are going to be converted to AN fittings to make making the lines a breeze. Have not come up with the routing yet but I will get there when I have a chance.
Fuel lines on my truck run up the driver side of the truck and I need them on the passenger side. So I need to swap them over they do come out of the tank on the pass side so from there forward I will make new lines. Again this is another situation where starting with ha 91-92 FJ80 would have made this a non issue the pipes run of that side of the truck to begin with.
When I was at G&S cruisers on Wednesday Sheldon had mentioned he had some diesel tank pick up's from HDJ81's so no pump to deal with. I am going to pull mine and see what kind of shape its in first, if I can just adapt a steel pick up tube I am going to do that. No pre filter as well I will rely on my Racor 10micron fuel water separator and inline strainer. This way if the strainer gets plugged on the road its an easy swap with out having to the open the fuel tank to get to the strainer. Thinking about using a Napa 3972 its a 50 micron, $8 at any Napa or Wix dealer and fits in line. Its got a 5/16th inlet and outlet and flows 1 GPM I think that should be enough?
I'll get some pictures when I am working on it again tomorrow.
Yesterday I was able to get the top of the rad and intercooler mounting fabricated. I am using the stock upper rad mounts off the rad support and building from there. My hope is that the upper intercooler support will also be the upper rad support. Its out to get welded today. I was not able to get the lower made since I did not have the rad here its out getting the fill and inlet swapped and boiled over. I got a call this morning that its done.
I then moved onto heater hoses. I was able to get them all made with the help of some copper plumbing and a few 90* molded rubber bends. I have not hooked up the rear heat for now, I am going to run the hoses for it bit cap them for the time being. I reversed the flow through the heater core as well since it made the plumbing much easier. I also was able to add an inlet for the 1500W circulating block heater. It takes to cold water out of the block drain and heats it then sends it up to the heater inlet line to the engine and heater core. It it works correctly I should have instant heat in the winter and a engine at almost operating temp.
I then moved onto fuel water separator and PCV separator, I am thinking a bracket off the fire wall lip like Doug did makes the most sense. I just need to make it up and make a few reinforcing brackets, not sure that lip will support 10-15lbs hanging off of it with some leverage.
For the PCV I plan to make a higher volume more efficient oil air separator that will allow the outlet to be run into the pre-turbo intake. This will be much better for the environment and also get rid of the smell. I'll be making that up next week I hope.
I then looked at the PS resivor and where to mount it, stumped to be honest. Thinking maybe the front of the engine beside the fuel filter on the engine. Anywhere else its hard to run the lines or its in the way of the intercooler pipe run.
I also ordered a 2.31-2.5" cobra head intake yesterday along with a 2.5-3" rubber 90* and a 3" rubber hump hose for the air filter to turbo connection. The outlet for the air filter housing is 3.5" so I need to make a reducer to 3" Other than that it should be fairly straight forward albeit tight around the turbo.
AC lines are going to be converted to AN fittings to make making the lines a breeze. Have not come up with the routing yet but I will get there when I have a chance.
Fuel lines on my truck run up the driver side of the truck and I need them on the passenger side. So I need to swap them over they do come out of the tank on the pass side so from there forward I will make new lines. Again this is another situation where starting with ha 91-92 FJ80 would have made this a non issue the pipes run of that side of the truck to begin with.
When I was at G&S cruisers on Wednesday Sheldon had mentioned he had some diesel tank pick up's from HDJ81's so no pump to deal with. I am going to pull mine and see what kind of shape its in first, if I can just adapt a steel pick up tube I am going to do that. No pre filter as well I will rely on my Racor 10micron fuel water separator and inline strainer. This way if the strainer gets plugged on the road its an easy swap with out having to the open the fuel tank to get to the strainer. Thinking about using a Napa 3972 its a 50 micron, $8 at any Napa or Wix dealer and fits in line. Its got a 5/16th inlet and outlet and flows 1 GPM I think that should be enough?
I'll get some pictures when I am working on it again tomorrow.
- Thread starter
- #606
So no update yesterday. So this will be a update for both days. I took the day off Friday to smoke some meat for today.
So I am taking my lessons of past swaps to heart and spending my time focus on one component at a time till its done. I find when you do not focus the overall scope can become overwhelming and hurt progress.
So this weekend was all intercooler/Rad mounting.
Intercooler top mounting.
This will also double as the top rad mount. The intercooler is hard mounted and the rad is insulated by stock rubber isolators.
Any air that goes around the intercooler is directed into the rad core.
Upper rad support in.
The gap will be filled to prevent any air bypassing the coolers.
Another pic with upper support in.
Rad in.
Rad hoses and fan.
Lower rad hose and you can see the clearance from Rad to fan.
1" of clearance from fan to tank, with over 1.75" to core. Should be plenty.
Lower rad support and intercooler, both off the same mount.
Lower rad mount, can see the retained rubber isolator.
Nice part is they come out as a unit after removing 6 bolts.
Few pictures of the heater hoses I got done last week.
As you can see I needed to use some copper pipe. I plan to get it powder coated.
Tomorrow I hope to get the intercooler inlet and outlet moved.
So I am taking my lessons of past swaps to heart and spending my time focus on one component at a time till its done. I find when you do not focus the overall scope can become overwhelming and hurt progress.
So this weekend was all intercooler/Rad mounting.
Intercooler top mounting.
This will also double as the top rad mount. The intercooler is hard mounted and the rad is insulated by stock rubber isolators.
Any air that goes around the intercooler is directed into the rad core.
Upper rad support in.
The gap will be filled to prevent any air bypassing the coolers.
Another pic with upper support in.
Rad in.
Rad hoses and fan.
Lower rad hose and you can see the clearance from Rad to fan.
1" of clearance from fan to tank, with over 1.75" to core. Should be plenty.
Lower rad support and intercooler, both off the same mount.
Lower rad mount, can see the retained rubber isolator.
Nice part is they come out as a unit after removing 6 bolts.
Few pictures of the heater hoses I got done last week.
As you can see I needed to use some copper pipe. I plan to get it powder coated.
Tomorrow I hope to get the intercooler inlet and outlet moved.
- Thread starter
- #607
I also did some fan work.
The stock 1FZ fan and clutch put the fan a bit close to the rad. So I grabbed a spare hj60 fan and clutch I had. The snout of the HJ60 clutch is about 1/2-3/4" shorter than the 1FZ. The units with fans are both the same depth but the 2H fan blade is pushed further forward.
Side by side.
1FZ
2H
And the fan side by side.
1fz (notice the offset)
2H
Side by side of the blades the newer one is the 1FZ the blades seem to have more surface area. Those are the ones Im going to run so I can get as much air through the 4 heat exchanges that will be in front of it.
I have a few different layouts to play with so fan blades can be swapped if there are issues.
The stock 1FZ fan and clutch put the fan a bit close to the rad. So I grabbed a spare hj60 fan and clutch I had. The snout of the HJ60 clutch is about 1/2-3/4" shorter than the 1FZ. The units with fans are both the same depth but the 2H fan blade is pushed further forward.
Side by side.
1FZ
2H
And the fan side by side.
1fz (notice the offset)
2H
Side by side of the blades the newer one is the 1FZ the blades seem to have more surface area. Those are the ones Im going to run so I can get as much air through the 4 heat exchanges that will be in front of it.
I have a few different layouts to play with so fan blades can be swapped if there are issues.
That intercooler looks like a sweet fit Jerms. I'm must confess I a tad jealous. That thing will perform well for you. Offsetting your fan will also help it pull better. I forget what is ideal, but your close to it. I really like that copper pipe work for heater lines. I think I'll have to borrow that from you as I'm going to be doing some of the same work in a month or so. Your intercooler/rad support looks very functional and will let you take it apart quite easy. I dropped by this sat, but you were not there so.... I went to Kms for an hour and half. My kids were at go bananas. I can't stand that place. Just wait till you have kids!
- Thread starter
- #609
Yes I think it will work very well. It fits great! A bit of fiddling still needed for the inlet/outlet but its getting there. When I cut off the existing inlet out let I was very surprised by the core style unlike anything I have seen before. It consisted of each tube being broken into 4-6 box tube and in those box tubes it has lots of small fins sticking about 1/3 the way into the box. Never seen a core like it before. I can see it flowing very well indeed, not sure on its cooling effect though. Time will tell I guess.
Yeah if it was between 12:45 and 3:30 when you stopped by I was out running around getting material and metric hardware. The amount of time spent running around to get material can be counted in days now, its unreal and a colossal waste of time.
Im really happy with the way the heater lines worked out. It should be effective I wanted to keep it as clean looking as possible and integrate the circulating block heater. Incorporating the rear heater will make it a bit more of a mess and a bit complex. Going to work on that when the engine is back out again.
Sounds like that internal design is to maximize surfaces area for transfer. I'm pretty stoked for when you post up effeciency numbers. I expect they will be quite impressive. I hear ya for the running around. I'm in Aldergrove so I'm 20 min to either Abby or Langley, so mostly I get stuff from Alderauto or otter coop. Fortunately they both have some weird stuff, so I usually can make it work. I'm interested to see how you do your AC lines as I'd like to reroute mine sometime. Good work man.
g
g
- Thread starter
- #611
Yes I look forward to it as well. Should be interesting. Ill post a pic tomorrow.
Alder auto has been where I get all my metric since they seem to be the only place that has stock and is able to order stuff they do not have.
The AC lines are basically going to be converted to AN fittings so I can make my own lines where I want them to go. I plan to charge it with one of those do it yourself propane kits. See how it performs.
What are you using to TIG that aluminum? Thorated or Ceriated rods? 6061? Amps? Pulsing with the pedal?
Those beads sure look reaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaal pretty!
Those beads sure look reaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaal pretty!
- Thread starter
- #614
Yes it looks just like that inside, was very interesting. Im looking forward to see how it performs. Im glad they flow well to the rad behind as well. Everything I have used and worked with in the past has been bar and plate. Those cores look much different. Since I am redoing the inlet i may put a deflector plate in it to distribute flow through the core a bit mor evenly.
The TIG work was done by a friend that is the best fabricator i have ever seen.
If you don't mind asking your buddy what tungsten he uses, both size and type. I'm just starting to TIG aluminum and it's nothing like stick or spooling steel. Just want to make sure I'm on the right track rather thank wasting electrodes, gas, and filler. Tell him his stack of dimes sure is puuuuuurdy!
- Thread starter
- #616
I'll ask him for you.
Today I spent the morning at my buddy's fab shop bending up new end tank sections to plug the holes left from cutting the old out let and inlet off. Worked out good and hope to have it welded tonight or tomorrow. I am just having then weld on a 2.5" straight so I can connect with a 90* silicone coupler. I also fashioned a flow distribution divider for the inlet, this will direct half the flow coming into the intercooler up into the top of the cooler. Problem with it just going straight in is you have 1/3 to 1/2 the core doing 80% of the cooling. This will send half the air up into the top 1/2 of the intercooler allowing it to do its share of cooling. Sorry no pictures of that part today, when I pick it up I will get some pictures.
I then went back to my shop to work on a few other things.
I started with the PS resivor and where to mount it. I decided on mounting it beside the fuel filter on the old fan shroud tab.
Worked well there and I was able to bend the pump feed to an angle that allowed me to get a clean run of the hose from the rez.
I then hooked up all the pressure lines for it.
Fits like its made to go here.
I also removed the brake lines that run right up the to the front of the engine bay.
Much more room for intercooler pipes now.
Then I hooked up the FJ80 throttle cable from cruise to throttle. Had to make a tab for it but turned out good I think.
Both cables hooked up and when I push the peddle I move the throttle now so that was easy.
Lastly the kick down cable attchment, same thing here needed to make a braket to hold the cable. I had modified the factory Isuzu arm to take the cable end a few months ago.
Works great.
Tomorrow I hope to have the intercooler back and start work on the piping.
Today I spent the morning at my buddy's fab shop bending up new end tank sections to plug the holes left from cutting the old out let and inlet off. Worked out good and hope to have it welded tonight or tomorrow. I am just having then weld on a 2.5" straight so I can connect with a 90* silicone coupler. I also fashioned a flow distribution divider for the inlet, this will direct half the flow coming into the intercooler up into the top of the cooler. Problem with it just going straight in is you have 1/3 to 1/2 the core doing 80% of the cooling. This will send half the air up into the top 1/2 of the intercooler allowing it to do its share of cooling. Sorry no pictures of that part today, when I pick it up I will get some pictures.
I then went back to my shop to work on a few other things.
I started with the PS resivor and where to mount it. I decided on mounting it beside the fuel filter on the old fan shroud tab.
Worked well there and I was able to bend the pump feed to an angle that allowed me to get a clean run of the hose from the rez.
I then hooked up all the pressure lines for it.
Fits like its made to go here.
I also removed the brake lines that run right up the to the front of the engine bay.
Much more room for intercooler pipes now.
Then I hooked up the FJ80 throttle cable from cruise to throttle. Had to make a tab for it but turned out good I think.
Both cables hooked up and when I push the peddle I move the throttle now so that was easy.
Lastly the kick down cable attchment, same thing here needed to make a braket to hold the cable. I had modified the factory Isuzu arm to take the cable end a few months ago.
Works great.
Tomorrow I hope to have the intercooler back and start work on the piping.
Do you have pics of the baffle you put in your intercooler? It's a great idea by the way. Evening out the flow can increase effeciency as well as net less pressure drop across the core... A real win win.
g
g
- Thread starter
- #618
I don't sorry, was in a busy shop getting in peoples way so wanted to get done as fast as possible. The baffle was contoured kind of like a stretched out S to keep the air moving smoothly and not creating vortexes around it. Ill get a picture when the welding is done. My hope is it jacks up the efficiency of it. The baffle goes up to about the mid point of the core.
Hope the 5min of work it took sees some benefits.
- Thread starter
- #619
Today was all about pipe.
Spent today making the inlet pipe and down pipe.
Inlet pipe was tricky since I have limited room. I started with a 2.31-2.5" cobra head intake off the turbo. I had to trim it down a fair bit. From that I immediately went to a 2.5-3" 90* rubber boot. Then 3"pipe the rest of the way its all mandrel bent and fits very well. Took about 2 hours to get this just right. I did need to have the inlet of the turbo machined to take off the silly SAAB flange and fit the 2.3" cobra head (its actually stretched to 2.5"). On the air filter end I simply cut off the MAF brackets and was left with a nice bit 3.5" opening. So I got a 3"-3.5" silicone reducer for that end. I still need to sort out some sort of flex section. The way it is not its very ridged and will no doubt transmit a lot of vibrations. I did get a 3" rubber hump hose bit its almost as hard as the steel pipe its self it was shocking. So I need to come up with something but am a bit at a loss of what to use.
Downpipe was next, man what a pain that was. I had wanted to run 3" off the turbo but that was not going to happen with out a lot of work and in the end I do not think it would have flowed much better (would have needed to make some very restrictive bends). So 2.5" it was off the turbo, even that was tight with the alternator below the vacuum pump was hard to miss. After a few hours of slowly cutting up a mandrel U bend I had it and everything fit. My clearance was further complicated by the lower of the 3 turbo to down pipe bolts being right at the bottom where the minor side of the bend goes. I was finally able to get something to work, and I think its going to work well.
Here you can see my clearance issues.
Over an inch of room for the starter to keep cool. I will be rapping the down pipe and putting a heat reflective cover on the starter.
Dip stick tube bent and secured. Quite happy with how that turned out. I will need to do something to minimize the heat to prevent the rubber end of the dip stick from melting.
So from the starter back the exhaust will be 3" a V band is going to be put right at the base of the vertical section to allow removal of the starter easily. I plan to put the exhaust break somewhere there as well. I got a stainless exhaust flex but I'm not sure how it will handle the pressure of the exhaust break so may try and locate it after it. Any input? Cant see getting more than 30ish psi in the exhaust when the break is on?
More to come tomorrow.
Spent today making the inlet pipe and down pipe.
Inlet pipe was tricky since I have limited room. I started with a 2.31-2.5" cobra head intake off the turbo. I had to trim it down a fair bit. From that I immediately went to a 2.5-3" 90* rubber boot. Then 3"pipe the rest of the way its all mandrel bent and fits very well. Took about 2 hours to get this just right. I did need to have the inlet of the turbo machined to take off the silly SAAB flange and fit the 2.3" cobra head (its actually stretched to 2.5"). On the air filter end I simply cut off the MAF brackets and was left with a nice bit 3.5" opening. So I got a 3"-3.5" silicone reducer for that end. I still need to sort out some sort of flex section. The way it is not its very ridged and will no doubt transmit a lot of vibrations. I did get a 3" rubber hump hose bit its almost as hard as the steel pipe its self it was shocking. So I need to come up with something but am a bit at a loss of what to use.
Downpipe was next, man what a pain that was. I had wanted to run 3" off the turbo but that was not going to happen with out a lot of work and in the end I do not think it would have flowed much better (would have needed to make some very restrictive bends). So 2.5" it was off the turbo, even that was tight with the alternator below the vacuum pump was hard to miss. After a few hours of slowly cutting up a mandrel U bend I had it and everything fit. My clearance was further complicated by the lower of the 3 turbo to down pipe bolts being right at the bottom where the minor side of the bend goes. I was finally able to get something to work, and I think its going to work well.
Here you can see my clearance issues.
Over an inch of room for the starter to keep cool. I will be rapping the down pipe and putting a heat reflective cover on the starter.
Dip stick tube bent and secured. Quite happy with how that turned out. I will need to do something to minimize the heat to prevent the rubber end of the dip stick from melting.
So from the starter back the exhaust will be 3" a V band is going to be put right at the base of the vertical section to allow removal of the starter easily. I plan to put the exhaust break somewhere there as well. I got a stainless exhaust flex but I'm not sure how it will handle the pressure of the exhaust break so may try and locate it after it. Any input? Cant see getting more than 30ish psi in the exhaust when the break is on?
More to come tomorrow.
Nice clean fab work Jerms. That down pipe is a bugger with that darn bolt there. Ive dealt with that before and it's like being stuck between a rock and a hard place.
I too have wondered about flex braided pipe and exhaust brakes. Figment for mine on my Bj would be a lot easier if it could hold pressure, then the braided section could go just about anywhere.
Do you plan on insulating the intake pipe? I could see that thing grabbing quite a bit of heat as well. Do you think you could put a section of corrugated or something on your intake? I know corrigated sounds awful, but I worry about that pipe and your air filter can with all the engine movement. It's going to fatigue something.
Looks great!
I too have wondered about flex braided pipe and exhaust brakes. Figment for mine on my Bj would be a lot easier if it could hold pressure, then the braided section could go just about anywhere.
Do you plan on insulating the intake pipe? I could see that thing grabbing quite a bit of heat as well. Do you think you could put a section of corrugated or something on your intake? I know corrigated sounds awful, but I worry about that pipe and your air filter can with all the engine movement. It's going to fatigue something.
Looks great!
