johnny4ever
Test appropriately
Has anyone replaced their plastic radiator with an aftermarket version? If so what degree of upgrade did it provide? More durable?
John D
John D
Is there an alternative to the plastic Radiator?
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Upgrade??
Unless it's custom, aftermarket rad's for 80's are just cheaper, shorter lived alternatives. I'm sure lots of folks will chime in saying things like "My aftermarket rad's doing great!", but from what I've seen, most off brands last 3-5 years at best, while OEM is often 10+.
Curtis
Unless it's custom, aftermarket rad's for 80's are just cheaper, shorter lived alternatives. I'm sure lots of folks will chime in saying things like "My aftermarket rad's doing great!", but from what I've seen, most off brands last 3-5 years at best, while OEM is often 10+.
Curtis
Why aftermarket? '93-'94 OEM radiator better than '95- '97.It has 3 cores and the part # 16400-66040.
If you call CDan he would suggest going with the older better rad.
johnny4ever
Test appropriately
- Thread starter
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Damn Marty Turco sucks ass.
That said. I am looking at a 92 FJ80 with 214k on the clock. It has a plastic rad.
I just wondered if there was an overbuilt after market available.
At any rate , Considering the 80 has bad paint cracked windshield, oil on top of the block and residue on the t-case(leaking gear oil?) The rad is the least of my worries. What is a good first offer to the owner? Or should I back away?
John D
That said. I am looking at a 92 FJ80 with 214k on the clock. It has a plastic rad.
I just wondered if there was an overbuilt after market available.
At any rate , Considering the 80 has bad paint cracked windshield, oil on top of the block and residue on the t-case(leaking gear oil?) The rad is the least of my worries. What is a good first offer to the owner? Or should I back away?
John D
That depends on the price. Almost anything can be fixed. Most times I prefer to find a good deal that needs some work, then I get to do the work the way I feel like it should be done and I save some money.
-Spike
-Spike
Cruiser Jimmy
Moderator
I've got a $184 Metal 3 core aftermarket radiator. Had it for 2 years now without a problem.
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
jklubens said:
X 2 I got mine for 200 USD 4 core metal ( all ) aftermaket and no problems so far.
radiator barn.com and a lifetime waranty to boot. free shipping. been a year and change and no prob. yet!
jklubens said:
Just wait...
Tapage said:
Uh huh...
Turbo Turtle said:
Yup, they're always lifetime warrantied, just like Vatozone parts. I'm tellin' ya: Been there, done that; it just ain't worth it. My aftermarket CSF was purchased in 2001 (which means the original lasted 10 years) and was leaking like a sieve by 2004. Similar stories for Performance rad's. If anyone has a SPECIFIC brand that has stood the test of time, I'd love to hear it.
I promise you I'm not trying to be a jerk, and of course I ain't tryin' to jinx ya'll. Just post back in a few more years, and if your response is anything other than, "That thing sucked and started leaking to high hell, and now I'm back to OEM", well then, I'll eat my words.
Curtis
Last edited:
I have bought A-market copper rads for a variety of Toyos & Hondas. I now have one in my GTS Celica. It is a 3-core and barely cools as well as the original 1-core plastic did. They are usually built of very thin copper and cannot really be rebuilt any better than the plastic ones can. They may have one more core than the original, but cooling is not much better, if any.
Consider; when you open the hood you see a plastic radiator. But the core that does the real cooling is made of aluminum, which transfers heat to the air much better than copper does. That's why your best egg pan is aluminum!
Also, a plastic rad tank can be repaired with Superglue in a pinch! I have run them 100,000 miles that way! Don't try that with copper.
If it is a substantial cost difference, buy the copper, but make sure that they will back it up with a long leakage warranty. Otherwise go with aluminum / plastic.
Consider; when you open the hood you see a plastic radiator. But the core that does the real cooling is made of aluminum, which transfers heat to the air much better than copper does. That's why your best egg pan is aluminum!
Also, a plastic rad tank can be repaired with Superglue in a pinch! I have run them 100,000 miles that way! Don't try that with copper.
If it is a substantial cost difference, buy the copper, but make sure that they will back it up with a long leakage warranty. Otherwise go with aluminum / plastic.
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AL does not transfer heat better to the air than CU. CU has a higher thermal conductivity than AL, but surface area dictates how well either transfer heat to the air.
I have an aftermarket metal one that is waiting for repair.
I have an aftermarket metal one that is waiting for repair.
I have a "New" (installed by PO right before i got it) radiator, not sure on the core, from 1800radiators or something like that. Got less them 10k on it and already seeping @ the seems!
I WILL be ordering OEM to replace it!
I WILL be ordering OEM to replace it!
Cruiser Jimmy
Moderator
CJF said:
Curtis, I'll a stand up guy. If it turns out I'm wrong I'll back ya. But my decision to buy from other than OEM was stricky financial at the time and due to the fact that the 80 my DD.
I'll make it a point to find this thread if the need arises.
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
Brian Macgyver said:
That's right so in my specific case .. here in Panama with 96% humidity aprx in our long winter and temps from 24ºC to 32ºC no worries from my rad swap .. few years agoo ..
I have factory Toyota thermostat and really no problems under any kind of driving ..
