I am also curious what they told you about the supers. I looked at them on thier site but found no usefull technical information. I am curious what the Rockwell hardness is like on the two options.
Perhaps I used the wrong term. I am speaking of the measure of hardness of the steel. My old brain could be fading but I always thought it was measured in terms of "Rockwell hardness." (55-60 Rc?)
We put one of these super sets in a friends truck and they are very nice. You do need to swap over the ABS rings from your old birfs. I hope yours go longer than the 17k miles one of the local guys got.
So these are just the same birfs that we know from experience are getting from 15k-30+k tops?
I just reread your post. You used the terms axels in regards to the 50-100k. Was he talking about the axel shafts or the birfs or both? If you get 50k off them I will buy them for my next birf job.
Perhaps I used the wrong term. I am speaking of the measure of hardness of the steel. My old brain could be fading but I always thought it was measured in terms of "Rockwell hardness." (55-60 Rc?)
Fly Rod you're correct about Rockwell hardness. I've always been kinda curious on the metallurgy as well, but I guess that's the secret and key. My guess is when Bobby used to heat-treat the stock birfs he removed some of the hardness produced from heating and quenching, probably by letting it cool slower. But with his new birfs I imagine it's a different alloy as well to help with the yield strength, so the heat-treatment/hardness effects/methods are probably a little different than they were when he was treating stock birfs.
There are a few other hardness scales as well, Brinell being another one commonly used...
Nope, its the inside birfield to inner axle retaining clip. They are a pain to separate - and harder to get together. So you tack a weld to the inner part (differential side) of the axle shaft. The instructions are here sort of https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/210677-martack.html (its called a martack).
While I've never seperated an axle from a birf, it sounds pretty simple to do with a length of pipe. If the reassembly is the more difficult portion, it's a breeze too with a tiewrap. I've posted up pics a few times after reading one of Beo's posts (I think he borrowed the idea from somebody else). I can post them again if anyone is interested. Accomplice hijack over
Having popped lots of birfs apart and put the same number back together, I will say this: 80s are a breeze. For what ever reason, the inner star is relief cut in such a way that getting the snap rings to start into the star is easy and a 1 man job.
It's much harder with 40/60 series birfs, so much so that I try to avoid taking them apart.
While I've never seperated an axle from a birf, it sounds pretty simple to do with a length of pipe. If the reassembly is the more difficult portion, it's a breeze too with a tiewrap. I've posted up pics a few times after reading one of Beo's posts (I think he borrowed the idea from somebody else). I can post them again if anyone is interested. Accomplice hijack over
Separating the birf with pipe is easy until this happens. The other important function of the tac is to allow easy removal of the broken axle from the birf. The pipe method may not work very well if the broken axle is 3 inches long.
Ah, and now we continue to spend lots of money on new axles without getting a new axle.
Let's see, 5.29's, ARB, labor, Big Ballz SuperSet...by my calculation you are almost halfway to a custom D60. Now you just need to bust it a couple of times and you'll have bought a D60 without actually having one