Is the Distributor In?

[VA Mountain FJ40]

1968FJ 40. New vacuum distributor with Pertronics upgrade from Mark’s Off Road. It feels like it is seated, but I’m not sure it looks like it. I have not yet tightened the bottom clamp.

It just doesn’t want to go down anymore, I have wiggled and rotated the engine. I started with cylinder one at top dead center.

 

[charliemeyer007]

It looks high to me. So the tab on the bottom of the distributor shaft has to fit into the drive shaft slot for the oil pump. You can use a long flat blade screwdriver to align the slot to where the tap will be when the dizzy seats. The dizzy rotates a little as it seats so you need to be close in estimating that position. I pull the spark plugs and use the starter to whirl it over and see that I have oil pressure

 

[Living in the Past]

Did you compare lengths of the new distributor with the old one? I bought a distributor for my 68 from Specter back in 1991. I installed it and then timed it. While test driving I noticed zero oil pressure. Pulled the the one I install and compared it to the original one. It was just short enough not fit into the oil pump slot. Mine is a very early (9/67) 68 model. Not sure if that's why but when ever switching distributors I compare lengths first. Sent the distributor back and got a refund without a problem. Don't remember having to pay high handing or shipping on either end. But this was a long time ago.

 

[diesellibrarian]

Yup that's not fully seated. You can try what @charliemeyer007 suggested to get the drive tab aligned with the slot. It can take a few tries to get it right.

Another trick I've read about but not tried is to pull the wire from the coil and have someone bump the starter while you push down on the distributor. In theory, the dizzy should pop into place when the slot and tab line up. Obviously only do this once you are satisfied that the rotor is pointing at #1 at TDC.

 

[JohnnyC]

I had a very similar experience as the OP trying to re-install my distributor. It turned out that the O-ring I had was a little too thick and was preventing the distributor from dropping all the way in to the oil pump slot. I determined it was the O-ring because I was able to seat the distributor all the way into the oil pump slot with the O-ring removed, but when I replaced the O-ring, I was unable to seat the distributor all the way into the oil pump slot.

Two things that helped me to get the distributor seated all the way into the oil pump slot.
(1) I got a slightly smaller O ring (size 210 - 1/8" W x 3/4" ID x 1" OD)
(2) I followed the procedures outlined in the posts above to get the distributor seated all the way into the oil pump slot WITHOUT the O -ring installed. I then took note of the orientation of the rotor and removed the distributor. I then installed the O-ring on the distributor, and re-installed the distributor with the rotor in the same orientation as I had it installed when it was fully seated with no O-ring. At this point, I was left with the 3mm gap between the bottom of the distributor clamp and the block. However, because I knew the distributor shaft and the oil pump slot were aligned (from installation without the O-ring and noting the position of the rotor), I just pressed down on the distributor body with some oomph and the O-ring slipped in to the hole and the distributor fully seated into the bottom of the oil pump slot.

Hope this helps anyone else struggling with their distributor!

it has come up before dizzy not seating all the way... see above for solution from one mudder

 

[charliemeyer007]

When you work alone its hard to be inside and out at the same time. So when you take a dizzy out - do it on TDC #1 compression - look where the rotor is pointing exactly before you pull it , then look inside and see where the slot is.

 

[diesellibrarian]

One thing I noticed too while removing/reinstalling my distributor multiple times over the past couple of weeks is that the oil pump drive does not always stay where you position it with the screwdriver. Mine would sort of "drift" counter-clockwise, meaning that by the time I went to install the dizzy, the slot was no longer aligned with the tab. Not sure if this is typical, but it's what I encountered and it caused some frustration until I figured out how to compensate a little by aiming the slot a little too far clockwise, allowing it to rotate CCW into place by the time I had the dizzy ready to insert.

 

[VA Mountain FJ40]

Did you compare lengths of the new distributor with the old one? I bought a distributor for my 68 from Specter back in 1991. I installed it and then timed it. While test driving I noticed zero oil pressure. Pulled the the one I install and compared it to the original one. It was just short enough not fit into the oil pump slot. Mine is a very early (9/67) 68 model. Not sure if that's why but when ever switching distributors I compare lengths first. Sent the distributor back and got a refund without a problem. Don't remember having to pay high handing or shipping on either end. But this was a long time ago.

I did compare the lengths between the dizzy shafts. Same. I’m thinking the O ring might be interfering.
I think I might have it in just now… but I have to check if the rotor is pointing where it is supposed to be.

 

[VA Mountain FJ40]

Did you compare lengths of the new distributor with the old one? I bought a distributor for my 68 from Specter back in 1991. I installed it and then timed it. While test driving I noticed zero oil pressure. Pulled the the one I install and compared it to the original one. It was just short enough not fit into the oil pump slot. Mine is a very early (9/67) 68 model. Not sure if that's why but when ever switching distributors I compare lengths first. Sent the distributor back and got a refund without a problem. Don't remember having to pay high handing or shipping on either end. But this was a long time ago.

They sure look the same.

Did you compare lengths of the new distributor with the old one? I bought a distributor for my 68 from Specter back in 1991. I installed it and then timed it. While test driving I noticed zero oil pressure. Pulled the the one I install and compared it to the original one. It was just short enough not fit into the oil pump slot. Mine is a very early (9/67) 68 model. Not sure if that's why but when ever switching distributors I compare lengths first. Sent the distributor back and got a refund without a problem. Don't remember having to pay high handing or shipping on either end. But this was a long time ago.

they look exactly the same to me.

 

[mtn biker]

When I was struggling with my distributor and finding the right place in the oil pump, I found that 7&5/8 inches was the correct depth. I put a flat tip screw driver/ old distributor shaft in marked the depth and then measured out that depth. Then I compared that to the new distributor and put a mark on the new distributor. But that flat bracket and and the shoulder should be sitting flat on the block.

 

[VA Mountain FJ40]

Did you compare lengths of the new distributor with the old one? I bought a distributor for my 68 from Specter back in 1991. I installed it and then timed it. While test driving I noticed zero oil pressure. Pulled the the one I install and compared it to the original one. It was just short enough not fit into the oil pump slot. Mine is a very early (9/67) 68 model. Not sure if that's why but when ever switching distributors I compare lengths first. Sent the distributor back and got a refund without a problem. Don't remember having to pay high handing or shipping on either end. But this was a long time ago.

They sure look the same.

I did compare the lengths between the dizzy shafts. Same. I’m thinking the O ring might be interfering.
I think I might have it in just now… but I have to check if the rotor is pointing where it is supposed to be.

Nope. I am still cratering. I have swapped the new and old dizzies at least eight times today. Verified TDC three ways.
Took the O ring out of the new dizzy shaft and tried that—no difference in depth.

Out of curiosity I tried to see if the new hold down clamp would keep the new dizzy from free rotation. Nope.
So I tried to see if the new hold down clamp would keep the old dizzy from free rotation. Also nope.
And I can’t find the old dizzy clamp.

If I was somehow not getting the new dizzy deep enough… that might explain why the new clamp isn’t grabbing the new dizzy body enough to retard the rotation. But it’s not securing the old dizzy from rotating either. .

One thing I noticed too while removing/reinstalling my distributor multiple times over the past couple of weeks is that the oil pump drive does not always stay where you position it with the screwdriver. Mine would sort of "drift" counter-clockwise, meaning that by the time I went to install the dizzy, the slot was no longer aligned with the tab. Not sure if this is typical, but it's what I encountered and it caused some frustration until I figured out how to compensate a little by aiming the slot a little too far clockwise, allowing it to rotate CCW into place by the time I had the dizzy ready to insert.

Thanks… after thirty or so attempts was able to get it in, using some of everyone’s advice.

 

[VA Mountain FJ40]

it has come up before dizzy not seating all the way... see above for solution from one mudder

This. Thank you. I used all the tricks. Measured distributors. Found out where to orient the oil pump slot so the rotor pointed between cyls 3 and 4 when the dizzy is fully seated. Did a LOT of wiggling and pushing and pushing and wiggling and got it down to an RCH of the upper flange. The O ring was fully pressed in the hole. The keeper bracket now stops the dizzy from rotating.

All good, thanks to all the kind folks who helped me on this problem that was beating me up like Ali at the Thrilla in Manila.
Chip

 

[charliemeyer007]

Knowing is half the battle, if you quit or don't try you can never fail. Persistence is a good character trait - knowing when to take a break before causing a brake is golden. Well Done.

 

[mtn biker]

Now that you have the dizzy seated all the way down. I would crank it over with the starter just to verify that the oil is pumping before you put the cap back on.

 

[73FJ40]

1968FJ 40. New vacuum distributor with Pertronics upgrade from Mark’s Off Road. It feels like it is seated, but I’m not sure it looks like it. I have not yet tightened the bottom clamp.

It just doesn’t want to go down anymore, I have wiggled and rotated the engine. I started with cylinder one at top dead center.

View attachment 3895297

View attachment 3895298

View attachment 3895299

It's likely seated. My "exposed" machined surface appears to be the same as yours. I've got plenty of oil pressure and 1,000 miles on the truck since I installed it.

Note, I fastened my clamp as shown to ensure both portions of the clamp grab the same diameter surface:

 

[VA Mountain FJ40]

It looks high to me. So the tab on the bottom of the distributor shaft has to fit into the drive shaft slot for the oil pump. You can use a long flat blade screwdriver to align the slot to where the tap will be when the dizzy seats. The dizzy rotates a little as it seats so you need to be close in estimating that position. I pull the spark plugs and use the starter to whirl it over and see that I have oil pressure

Thanks for the response! It helped me solve the issue.

 

[VA Mountain FJ40]

Did you compare lengths of the new distributor with the old one? I bought a distributor for my 68 from Specter back in 1991. I installed it and then timed it. While test driving I noticed zero oil pressure. Pulled the the one I install and compared it to the original one. It was just short enough not fit into the oil pump slot. Mine is a very early (9/67) 68 model. Not sure if that's why but when ever switching distributors I compare lengths first. Sent the distributor back and got a refund without a problem. Don't remember having to pay high handing or shipping on either end. But this was a long time ago.

Thanks for the response! It helped me solve the issue.

 

[VA Mountain FJ40]

Yup that's not fully seated. You can try what @charliemeyer007 suggested to get the drive tab aligned with the slot. It can take a few tries to get it right.

Another trick I've read about but not tried is to pull the wire from the coil and have someone bump the starter while you push down on the distributor. In theory, the dizzy should pop into place when the slot and tab line up. Obviously only do this once you are satisfied that the rotor is pointing at #1 at TDC.

Thanks for the response! It helped me solve the issue. Engine is on a stand but I rotated the engine manually. Found TDC using flywheel mark, dizzy rotor was pointing between cylinder 3 & 4. Just had to wiggle the rotor while holding the body while pushing down to get the rubber o ring to seat beneath the block opening.

 

[VA Mountain FJ40]

I did compare the lengths between the dizzy shafts. Same. I’m thinking the O ring might be interfering.
I think I might have it in just now… but I have to check if the rotor is pointing where it is supposed to be.

Testing showed the O ring was not interfering. Just had to do more wiggling and pushing down after properly indexing the oil pump slot to receive the end of the dizzy shaft when inserted.

 

[VA Mountain FJ40]

it has come up before dizzy not seating all the way... see above for solution from one mudder

Thanks for the response! It helped me solve the issue.