is it a good idea to do a POR15 treatment on a frame in great condition? what about if you need to spend time up north on salted roads? is there a benefit to doing it before it hits the salt?
is POR15 a preventive treatment for a good frame? (went with Macropoxy 646) (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter landcruiser3DP
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Many folks like it, but I have seen lots of cases where it doesn’t actually work or last very long. The potential issue with painted undercoat products is that if your frame isn’t clean enough and generally rust free before you start the process, it can actually seal it in and continue to rot from the inside without you knowing... it can even speed up the rust process in some cases. To truly do it right you’d pretty much want to strip it down to the frame and start fresh. POR is intended to convert rust, but I guess that’s part of what I’ve seen not work.
Seems to be that oil based/wet application products like fluid film and wool wax are preferred and work great. I haven’t taken the time to do it yet, but I would probably suggest cleaning the underside (power wash & let dry) and using one of those rather than an undercoat paint. Oily metal won’t rust, and it allows it to “breathe” as it comes into contact with moisture and the film protects from salt/etc
If you’ve ever noticed on the underside of a vehicle that has small oil leaks, the areas that are constantly wet tend to be rust free, while there might be some rust on the dry areas. That’s how this stuff works. Typically you will need to apply it once annually, for example in the fall before winter and salt season hits, but seems to be the best option from what I’ve seen.
Seems to be that oil based/wet application products like fluid film and wool wax are preferred and work great. I haven’t taken the time to do it yet, but I would probably suggest cleaning the underside (power wash & let dry) and using one of those rather than an undercoat paint. Oily metal won’t rust, and it allows it to “breathe” as it comes into contact with moisture and the film protects from salt/etc
If you’ve ever noticed on the underside of a vehicle that has small oil leaks, the areas that are constantly wet tend to be rust free, while there might be some rust on the dry areas. That’s how this stuff works. Typically you will need to apply it once annually, for example in the fall before winter and salt season hits, but seems to be the best option from what I’ve seen.
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- #3
so something from here?
and take it to the power wash, drive it home, let it dry and then applY?
i assume i can't buy it locally? or perhaps i can.
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- #4
so POR15 you would pull parts if you wanted to do it right?
what about woolwax? can you apply it as the truck sits?
Not sure about wool wax, but fluid film is fairly common. You can probably find a local vendor through their website.
To be clear, I’m no expert, but yes you can power wash it whether at home or a local place with that option, let it fully dry, and then apply. The nice thing with these products VS paint is they don’t require much surface prep, the metal just needs to be fairly clean & dry.
You can buy it in individual aerosol cans, but the best way is using an undercoat gun & air compressor setup. With proper spray attachments/hose you can get it into every little nook & cranny under your vehicle, including inside the frame/etc
To be clear, I’m no expert, but yes you can power wash it whether at home or a local place with that option, let it fully dry, and then apply. The nice thing with these products VS paint is they don’t require much surface prep, the metal just needs to be fairly clean & dry.
You can buy it in individual aerosol cans, but the best way is using an undercoat gun & air compressor setup. With proper spray attachments/hose you can get it into every little nook & cranny under your vehicle, including inside the frame/etc
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Fluid film & wool wax are equivalent products, so the same process is used for both. Again, just power wash to remove dirt/mud/etc and then you can start spraying after it’s dry. You’re basically just covering the metal with oil.
You can certainly choose whatever product you want, but I’m basically saying fluid film & wool wax work better and are easier to apply & maintain.
Search fluid film and/or wool wax on YouTube for visuals
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I used to love POR but Ive joined the junk bus about it. FF and woolwax are the best by far.
In my personal research I might give the upper hand to woolwax. Thicker & sounds like it holds up a little better.
Cheap application setup example:
Cheap application setup example:
Haven't had an issue with POR 15. But a good heavy chassis paint will work as well if the parts are cleaned.
If you are in salt country woolwax and the like is the only answer. POR does look pretty but doesn't actually act as a very good rust prevention unless you are already in the desert.
I agree with what's been said so far - the greasy products, if applied liberally and often will keep everything rust free.
Regarding POR in general, it's good - but there are better examples out there. There's commercial paint applications which are meant for 'marginally prepared steel', often used on bridge steel, and saltwater environments. Sherwin Williams Macropoxy 646 is a good example. It's an epoxy. With a commercial account you can get it for about $38 a gallon, and you need two (part A, and part B). It's tough as nails, and will adhere over a powerwashed undercarriage.
I did it on my 91 several years ago and it's holding up great in PA.
Regarding POR in general, it's good - but there are better examples out there. There's commercial paint applications which are meant for 'marginally prepared steel', often used on bridge steel, and saltwater environments. Sherwin Williams Macropoxy 646 is a good example. It's an epoxy. With a commercial account you can get it for about $38 a gallon, and you need two (part A, and part B). It's tough as nails, and will adhere over a powerwashed undercarriage.
I did it on my 91 several years ago and it's holding up great in PA.
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- #12
THANKS all. awesome help.
sherwin williams it is.
so i am doing just the brackets for the radius arms.
those green brillo pads and a bunch of elbow grease and simple green ought to do it? then mix two part epoxy and apply one coat?
or should i get in there with spray bottle or something else like acetone or something and get all OCD on it somehow?
Good thread on Woolwax here:
forum.ih8mud.com
He/they also is a vendor here.
Anyone try WoolWax yet?
Kellsport came out with a new product called WoolWax that is supposedly odor free and comes in two colors. As most of you know, I am an old fashioned grease monkey and I am always slathering either bar chain oil or Fluid Film on my undergarments as the first stages of my rust reversal school...
forum.ih8mud.com
He/they also is a vendor here.
lumbee1
Native American
I highly recommend this brush. The bristles are way to stiff for auto detailing but great for detailing underhood and under chassis. I've got to clean my axles and paint them. I haven't decides on POR, epoxy paint, or spray can. I saw a post where someone used commercial bridge paint and the finished product looked amazing.
Atlasta SoftTip (AS101) Auto Detailing Brush
Atlasta SoftTip (AS101) Auto Detailing Brush
POR15 is best for converting existing rust. If you've got a clean chassis with no rust, epoxy primer and paint will do a better job of tidying things up. If you plan to go to the land of salt, then any of the oily goo mentioned above is a real preventive.
Used POR (original stuff) several times on 40 stuff years ago (In Illinois) (SALT) and as I recall it was *Paint Over Rust* and said to wire wheel off most rust and paint it on. It didn't last very well at all- especially on the cleaner steel and could have been my prep but also used some Tnemic brand paint my buddy (fabricator) said was spec'd on severe conditions on Bridges (salt) and it lasted much longer. I plan on using one of the above products (or cosmoline in cans) once i get one of my better 80s on the road . Paint it all THEN film over that.
Waxoyl is another option:
www.waxoyl-usa.com
Waxoyl USA | Offering 360º of Protection from Corrosion.
The Waxoyl Brand Stands for more than 55 years of experience in the fight against corrosion and is trusted by specialists and companies the world over.
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- #18
thanks gents.
went with the epoxy. i have a super clean truck - and lots and lots of work to do on it - so i would like to nail this kind of thing before i get to the big stuff.
anyone mind eyeballing these pics and telling me if i should take another run at the sanding or even get some kind of rust kill before applying the epoxy?
THANK YOU
went with the epoxy. i have a super clean truck - and lots and lots of work to do on it - so i would like to nail this kind of thing before i get to the big stuff.
anyone mind eyeballing these pics and telling me if i should take another run at the sanding or even get some kind of rust kill before applying the epoxy?
THANK YOU
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- #19
ran out of daylight and didn’t have a light so these were hard to see. left side here. any reason to go over either of these or can i apply something to them before coating?
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- #20
right
