my plate is going on tomorrow morning.
Good timing
its supposed to rain
oh wait, you have a garage! its easy LT. i would come and help but i have to go visit my 87 yr old gramma who just had her knee replaced!
IPOR Skid Plate Install
- Thread starter Scott_sFZJ80
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
its supposed to rain
oh wait, you have a garage! its easy LT. i would come and help but i have to go visit my 87 yr old gramma who just had her knee replaced!
Went out with the local club this weekend and literally beat the snot out of this thing. Real nice product!
With the IPOR skid plate, what is the best place to place the jack to support the transmisson during installation? The transmission plate reaches right up to the bell housing. Would supporting on the drive shafts be OK?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
Last edited:
I put a jack under the rear flange of the T-Case.
Wrench
One Bashed Up 80
Yes I did that also. Seems like the only place I could put it. Plate covers a lot!
agreed with two above responses. When Cam at IPOR installed mine, that's how he supported the tcase.
alvarorb
Color Geek in Charge
- Joined
- Jun 5, 2003
- Threads
- 110
- Messages
- 1,847
- Location
- Sacramento, California
- Website
- www.instagram.com
Thanks to all for the advice.
The skid plate is in.
While waiting for my youngest son to arrive to give me a hand, I decided to replace the A/C belt and alternator belts. First I took off the mini-skid plate beneath the front end of the engine. I broke one of the four bolts holding it on even though I had used PB Blaster a couple of days ago and tried to loosen them by using the one turn out half turn in method. There was just too much rust on the top end of this bolt. I may dirll it out if the plate rattles with just the three remaining bolts holding it on.
I then went at the A/C belt by loosening the nut on the idler pulley. Then I backed off the adjustment bolt and it broke too! I took off the idler pulley and then pried off the little flange that holds the sliding adjuster to the idler bolt. This allowed me to take off the adjuster with the broken adjusing bolt in place. Luckily it is really long so I put it in a vice and used vice grips, PB Blaster and a soldering torch. I broke two more pieces off the bolt with the vise grips before it finally turned and I managed to get the remaining part of the bolt out. So it's off to my local Toy store for a new bolt (unless the the local fastener specialist has one!).
The alternator went by without a hitch. To loosen the adjusing bolt you really have to use a box end wrench, but that's OK.
The IPOR skid plate went on with a few grunts. I figure it is best to but the central two nuts on first. You really have to make sure that the jack holding up the rear flange of the tranfer case is way back at the far end of the TC oterwise it gets in the way. I will be experimenting tomorrow with some rubber grommets I have in order to protect the center two bolts that protrude way down. I am going to get two new nuts, flat and lock washers tomorrow. If it works or not, I will take and post some pics.
There was not enough time left to do the Pin 7 mod (it got dark fast). My son's help will make that job go a bit easier too.
All in all, a fun day. Good to work with my son. That was the best part.
The skid plate is in.While waiting for my youngest son to arrive to give me a hand, I decided to replace the A/C belt and alternator belts. First I took off the mini-skid plate beneath the front end of the engine. I broke one of the four bolts holding it on even though I had used PB Blaster a couple of days ago and tried to loosen them by using the one turn out half turn in method. There was just too much rust on the top end of this bolt. I may dirll it out if the plate rattles with just the three remaining bolts holding it on.
I then went at the A/C belt by loosening the nut on the idler pulley. Then I backed off the adjustment bolt and it broke too! I took off the idler pulley and then pried off the little flange that holds the sliding adjuster to the idler bolt. This allowed me to take off the adjuster with the broken adjusing bolt in place. Luckily it is really long so I put it in a vice and used vice grips, PB Blaster and a soldering torch. I broke two more pieces off the bolt with the vise grips before it finally turned and I managed to get the remaining part of the bolt out. So it's off to my local Toy store for a new bolt (unless the the local fastener specialist has one!).
The alternator went by without a hitch. To loosen the adjusing bolt you really have to use a box end wrench, but that's OK.
The IPOR skid plate went on with a few grunts. I figure it is best to but the central two nuts on first. You really have to make sure that the jack holding up the rear flange of the tranfer case is way back at the far end of the TC oterwise it gets in the way. I will be experimenting tomorrow with some rubber grommets I have in order to protect the center two bolts that protrude way down. I am going to get two new nuts, flat and lock washers tomorrow. If it works or not, I will take and post some pics.
There was not enough time left to do the Pin 7 mod (it got dark fast). My son's help will make that job go a bit easier too.
All in all, a fun day. Good to work with my son. That was the best part.
In this picture there is a rubber block in the left side of the photo. I mean this square block with a screw in the middle which goes from the transfer case. What is it for? Should it attach to anything? In my rig it just hangs as it is, nothing below or above. Should I worry?
Sorry for the slight off topic, but now that we area in the similar are I thought I would ask...
alvarorb
Color Geek in Charge
- Joined
- Jun 5, 2003
- Threads
- 110
- Messages
- 1,847
- Location
- Sacramento, California
- Website
- www.instagram.com
Mike,
That's a dampener. It's purpose it's to minimize vibrations.
It just hangs there.
Regards
Alvaro
That's a dampener. It's purpose it's to minimize vibrations.
It just hangs there.
Regards
Alvaro
Here is a shot of the two rubber grommets I used to help protect the two centre studs. These were bought at a store called Princess Auto and were bump stops from the home-made trailer section. I trimmed them with a band saw. They are held in with a 19mm nut and lock washer. I may still get the Dremel out and trim the stud tips where there is no thread.
So after the skid plate is installed, is there anything to protect the front lip of the muffler getting caught up on stuff? It looks like the muffler starts right where the skid plate ends towards the rear of the vehicle.
alvarorb
Color Geek in Charge
- Joined
- Jun 5, 2003
- Threads
- 110
- Messages
- 1,847
- Location
- Sacramento, California
- Website
- www.instagram.com
Yotafan,
The stock muffler hangs down too low. If you need the IPOR skid plate for the type of wheeling you do, you probably want to change the stock muffler for something that is nice and tucked away.
Regards
Alvaro
The stock muffler hangs down too low. If you need the IPOR skid plate for the type of wheeling you do, you probably want to change the stock muffler for something that is nice and tucked away.
Regards
Alvaro
- Thread starter
- #37
I agree with Alvaro, it would be a good idea to think about a tucked away system. I upload a few pics. I damaged the stock muffler prior to the skid plate install but I may have hung up the front lip of the muffler anyways.
- Thread starter
- #38
There may be a way to get creative with some additional brackets to the skid plate and the frame to help you slid over a rock.
Keep in mind that my muffler is now pushed up and back.
Keep in mind that my muffler is now pushed up and back.
After meeting with the NorCal guys last week and upon viewing my skid plate it seems necessary to drill and access hole to be able to grease the front drive shaft while it is still mounted to the truck.
Has anyone done this? I just took a quick look at it but about an 1 1/4" hole properly positioned should to the trick.
Has anyone done this? I just took a quick look at it but about an 1 1/4" hole properly positioned should to the trick.
I thought I could get to the U_Joint with a flexible hose. I'll check again. I may have been dreaming (again).
