IPOR Skid Plate Install (1 Viewer)

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Scott_sFZJ80

Scott_sFZJ80

Joined
Feb 7, 2003
Threads
70
Messages
846
Location
Chicago
Iron Pig Off Road Skid Plate install
On a 1993 FZJ80 with Hanna Quality Sliders

Tools needed

For basic install:

Safety glasses
Ratchet 3/8 or 1/2 drive
17mm socket [for new skid plate hardware]
17mm deep socket [for transmission mount]
14mm socket [for existing cross member hardware, new skid plate bracket/arm]
13mm socket [for existing capture nut on frame to new skid plate bracket/arm]
Extensions
14 wrench [for new skid plate bracket/arm]
Jack stands
Jack(s)
Ball peen Hammer [to assist in aligning plate]
Impact Gun – if available (recommended)

To remove Hanna sliders
3/4” wrench
3/4" socket
Extension
1.JPG
 
Weight
Stock transmission cross member and transfer case skid plate = 16lbs.
IPOR skid plate = 54lbs.

Ground clearance with OME 2.5 Heavy and 305-70-16 MTRs (~33in tires)
Stock transmission cross member and skid plate = ~15 inches
IPOR skid plate = ~16.5 inches (the portion of new plate under the transfer does drop to about equal to stock)
2.JPG
 
Absolutely
No drilling necessary
No cutting necessary
No grinding necessary
No welding necessary
No additional hardware necessary – everything was included

I did the install by myself but I would recommend having someone to help hold things in place.
All the steps were very easy and installed without any issues.
Steps two and three can be reversed if desired.

Step one
BE CAREFUL!!!
Place jack under transmission but out of the way of the portion of the new skid plate under transmission. Be sure to place it in a place not to damage anything because it will bear some weight when unbolting the cross member. I would recommend a jack so that you could adjust when bolting in new plate. You should also place a jack stand as back up.
3.JPG
 
Step two
BE CAREFUL!!!
Unbolt the two transmission mount nuts (17mm deep socket).
Loosen cross member bolts (14mm socket) 4 each side, 8 total.
Do not remove cross member bolts at this time!

Step three if you have sliders, otherwise skip and move on to step four.
BE CAREFUL!!!
This step is for my particular sliders equipped with a catalytic converter skid plate, but I would imagine others would use a similar procedure, if at all.
Passenger side (US model) loosen rear U-bolt (3/4” wrench, 3/4" socket).
Passenger side (US model) remove front U-bolt (3/4” wrench, 3/4" socket).

Step four
BE CAREFUL!!!
With transmission properly supported remove cross member bolts.
Warning, the transmission will no longer be completely secure during and after this step!
4.JPG
 
Step five
BE CAREFUL!!!
Remove old cross member and skid plate and replace with IPOR skid plate.
The sliders should be drooped enough to allow you to slide the new plate in.

Step six
BE CAREFUL!!!
With provided hardware, bolt new plate to frame (17mm socket) 4 each side, 8 total. Remember not to tighten the bolts until all are in place. This is the part where you can use the [Ball peen Hammer] to align the holes. You will also need to leave the slider off until you have all bolts in place.
Reinstall the two transmission mount nuts (17mm deep socket).
Tighten all the bolts.

Step seven if you have sliders, otherwise skip and move on to step eight.
BE CAREFUL!!!
After all the bolts are in place, and the transmission still supported as described in step one, you should remove the skid plate bolts on the Passenger side (US model).
Lift sliders (with a catalytic converter skid plate) up and reinstall bolts to frame (17mm socket).
Tighten all the bolts.
Reinstall slider U-bolts to frame (3/4” wrench, 3/4" socket) and tighten.
5.JPG
 
Step eight
BE CAREFUL!!!
Install provided skid plate bracket/arm to existing capture nut on frame (13mm socket) with new hardware.
Install provided hardware to bolt skid plate bracket/arm to skid plate (14mm socket, 14 wrench).
6.JPG
7.JPG
 
Thanks for the write-up... I've been saving for one.

I was wondering if it would fit with sliders, and now I know! :)
 
"That's Chet Gary.":lol:
 
this is great. thank you. mine is on the way... or so it should be. i need to call lance!
 
okay. done. great write up. installed mine last night. the skidplate weighs a TON. it was so easy with two people. if that falls on your head you are in deep s***.

also, side note...
these bolts should be trimmed. they are now exposed and they werent by the factory cross member. they will indeed get mangled.
attachment-1.jpg
 
It's a great setup. Congrats.
That thing is super beefy. I've got the previous generation

Image-36B18E7C436111DA.jpg


After almost two years the red is not as bright.


Regards

Alvaro
 
Congrats, and thanks. Yeah, I went back and trimmed off the bolt up to the start of the threads. In addition, I have been meaning to post a recommended step in the installation.

If you have a stock trans skid plate (I believe on the A440F only), then you should remove it prior to installing the IPOR plate.

I had issues with it barely touching under load, and it would send a vibration throughout the entire rig. Removed it and all is quiet.
 
alvarorb, where are your exposed studs? I chopped mine down, but your's look non-existent.
 
Concrete,

Mine is an earlier generation IPOR skid plate. To attach it, you had to cut off the factory studs and then drill and tap holes on the plate. It was a lot more work than yours.
I like how Lance solved this issue by using the factory studs.

Alvaro
 
because of the way my exhaust is routed over the frame i cant get the supporting leg installed for the transfer case "tail" that hangs off the back... is the best step to drill and tap the frame so there is a better location for it?
 
I'm guessing that you have a custom exhaust set up, which is good. Can that arm can reach the frame flat at another angle? If so, then yes your best bet is to drill and tap another hole. This may give you a better size bolt to use, the existing frame hole size would be nice if it was a little larger.
 
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