IPOR FJ60 into FJ40 Powersteering Conversion
- Thread starter sandsfj40
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No need for a kit. Do research and fit it on your own.
I'm in the same boat
Aquiring parts needed to install an 80 series steering box into my 40
I have the box and a 70 series pitman that I got the p/n from albertoSD 45411-60120 from his build. the flat ish pitman provides better clearance from suspension bits than the stock pitman.
I need to track down the relay rod/end to fit.
The thing I am trying to work through is a clean non welded connection from the 40 rag joint/steering column to the 80 series universal
I havent pulled my steering column yet to count splines/measure diameter to compare to the bits I have for the 80 box.
These guys have a decent selection of bits/adapters
Couplers & Adapters
Steering Couplers & AdaptersVersatile Solutions for Secure Steering ConnectionsEnsure secure, reliable steering connections with Borgeson's precision-engineered steering couplers and adapters. Manufactured from durable steel for exceptional strength and corrosion resistance, our versatile...
www.borgeson.com
I'll document all p/n's when I get to it/complete it in a month or so
It’s not rocket science, but I wouldn’t take the welding lightly. I had a friend who was much better then me weld my plate on the frame. Take your time and use the steering box mounting holes to make a template for the frame mounting holes. Lay this over the frame and you have the plate dimensions with the holes in the right spot.
It’s not exactly that easy, but it gives you the idea. There are plenty of threads detailing how people done this procedure. There’s not just one way to do it, everyone probably does it a little different- exact placement, parts etc. With the box in hand it gets easier, trust me…
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Some people like kits though. I am planning to come out with a similar kit that Iron Pig but with a few of my own touches.
For the steering shaft I used the stock 80 collapsible shaft and a matching spline/DD u joint. Machine the 40 upper shaft to fit the DD.
I use the stock 80 pitarm, perfect fit.
For the relay rod I had Front Range Off Road make it out of DOM. Since I had mini truck knuckles and steering arms, I was able to use 60 TREs and an 80 TRE at the pit arm. Just one way to do it, hope it helps.
Nothing wrong with that either.
nabbasi
SILVER Star
Keep us all posted on this. I’m ready to go Saginaw, but if I could get away with less fabrication on my part on an early rig using the fj60 box tucked behind the wheel, I’d much rather go that route. Plus it’s the perfect excuse to order some of your awesome work.
Mark W
Yep, I really don't really care that much I guess.
There is so little "fabrication" needed to do this swap that is is about as close to bolt is as you can get without really being bolt in. 
Lots of us have been doing this swap for years and never needed any sort of kit.
Do some research and take the leap. You will be glad you did.
Mark...
Lots of us have been doing this swap for years and never needed any sort of kit.
Do some research and take the leap. You will be glad you did.
Mark...
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nabbasi
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I plan on jumping down that rabbit hole once I get some other things finished up (full re-wire is nearly complete, then on to brakes and a knuckle rebuild, suspension, then steering).There is so little "fabrication" needed to do this swap that is is about as close to bolt is as you can get without really being bolt in.
Lots of us have been doing this swap for years and never needed any sort of kit.
Do some research and take the leap. You will be glad you did.
Mark...
I was originally planning on EPS. I even sourced a ‘74 steering wheel, column and firewall bracket, but it doesn’t address or improve the design of the OEM setup, so I’m thinking about a Saginaw conversion or FJ60 conversion. I don’t want to cut my bib or remove bib lights which seems common on the early 40s (I have a 1967). I don’t mind a little cutting/ grinding/ welding, but I want it to appearance close to stock from the outside as possible.
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Early bib lights won't clear a 60/80 box unless you go with a custom shock tower and mount the steering box about 2" further back then normal.
nabbasi
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Yeah, that's my issue/ concern. Cutting and grinding a fender apron & radiator support for clearance is one thing, but I'm not sure I'm up to fabricating a custom shock tower & mount.
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We just did a 60/80 setup into my good friends 68 - as well as a SOA, FJ60 front axle, and FJ60 spring swap - what we are thinking it to make a ring that can mount a small LED and the original lens, since they take up much less space then the original light housing
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nabbasi
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Hey it's Capri Blue just like my '67. An LED is a great idea. Would a generic 3" surface mount be thin enough for the wiring to get to and still be functional?
Mark W
Yep, I really don't really care that much I guess.
The only setups I have done that called for the box to interfere with the bib were on rigs with the front axle moved forward over 4-6 inches. Everything lines up just fine with the box behind the bib in all the other rigs. I always change the shock tower anyway so that longer shocks can be used. The OEM shock is silly short if you are doing any suspension upgrades of any kind.Early bib lights won't clear a 60/80 box unless you go with a custom shock tower and mount the steering box about 2" further back then normal.
Mark...
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If you’re changing the shock tower then the box could easily be moved 2-3” back from where it would be with the stock shock mount. We do a lot of installs on pretty tame trucks here since we have a lot of older population that likes to just drive around town. No need for shock mount relocation for them. It really is a different demographic then real wheelers like you or me
Mark W
Yep, I really don't really care that much I guess.
Yeah, for those rigs I usually urge them to go with the "mini-truck" conversion. Not a damn thing wrong with that approach. It is simple, looks pretty stock and handles anything a milder rig with milder tasking will ever need.
Mark...
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I don’t have @Mark W or @cruisermatt wealth of experience and I have only done one swap, so keep that in mind.
If you’re up for the 60/80 swap, then moving the shock tower is trivial. The rest of the project will seem much more involved (&it’s not rocket science). I lightly notched the backside rib and relocated behind the box. It was a no brainer in retrospect.
On my ‘73, moving the tower allowed me the freedom to put the fj80 box/pitarm in (what I think) is the ideal position. The relay rod sits right over the tierod. I have great steering feel and little to no bumpsteer.
It really does make the rig more fun to drive with bigger tires.
If you’re up for the 60/80 swap, then moving the shock tower is trivial. The rest of the project will seem much more involved (&it’s not rocket science). I lightly notched the backside rib and relocated behind the box. It was a no brainer in retrospect.
On my ‘73, moving the tower allowed me the freedom to put the fj80 box/pitarm in (what I think) is the ideal position. The relay rod sits right over the tierod. I have great steering feel and little to no bumpsteer.
It really does make the rig more fun to drive with bigger tires.
