Introduction, Baseline & Half a Year Owning the LX470 (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Aug 26, 2023
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About Me: I’m pretty new to wrenching on cars. I just started doing my own oil changes in 2021. That being said, I’m an engineer and I’ve taken an interest to maintaining my vehicles. With my family growing, I decided something bigger than my Honda Civic was warranted. The car market was in pandemic mode and I really do hate a car payment. This put me on a search for a quality used vehicle. I was cross shopping between a Crewmax Tundra, GX or Land Cruiser. It was interesting that the GX and LX seemed to have a better bang for your buck when I was searching — no complaints there! Ultimately the Land Cruiser’s rear legroom, split tailgate (read: changing table for baby) and ability to fit in the garage were 3 features that cemented the choice.

The purchase: I found an ’05 LX470 with 192K for sale on craigslist. PO had it undercoated and also was a nut about washing the rig - he outfitted a car wash inside his garage. The LX was in great shape for an ’05 and my primary concern about buying one of these was rust. He did well keeping rust at bay, I’ll aspire to keep that up.

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Build Motivation: The word build might be a misnomer - my LX470 probably won’t get a lift, RTT, LED bars or other goodies. I think the LX470 is incredible stock and my focus is refreshing everything and getting it running like a top. I’ve only done a few “mods,” and most of this post will detail my baselining.

Day 1: Bought it and went for an inspection the following day. Failed for the aftermarket tints on the front windows. Put my wife’s clothes steamer on em and took them off with a razor and a careful hand. Got my sticker right after.

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I felt like it was taking long to crank. Checked out the battery at autozone. Tested good. Ended up changing my fuel filter, and then kind of gave up looking into this one. Might replace the battery at some point, I think maybe it’s just a difference between my Hondas and this car. Will tackle the spark plugs later.

Serp belt was squealing so that was next. Called a friend to help me with this one as I was a half banana mechanic at this point in time. A few bulbs were burnt out so addressed that and upgraded the reverse lights to LED bulbs at the same time. Probably wouldn’t do that without the right kits for other bulbs but figured reverse is fine.

Next up was removing the plastidip on the rear badges. Wd40, plastic “pry” bars and a cloth and all set in no time. Nice chrome underneath the Lexus and the LX470. Under the “L” symbol is gold, so I left those dipped for now. I’ll have to circle back and match ‘em.


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My first decent sized solo job was putting in the grom vline2 for apple car play. Electrically it was a simple plug and play. To get there, you really gotta get into the guts of the nav unit. I was impressed that none of the trim snapped in this process. I ended up mounting the unit in my glove box. I later took out the cigarette lighter to install a USB pass through. At the same time, I mounted the microphone behind the rear view mirror. Install came out CLEAN by the end of it.

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With a few refinements done, it was time to start baselining the rig. Took care of the following without much issue.

Grease driveshaft
Rear differential
Front differential
Transfer case
Transmission (fluid pan drain and fill 3-4L)
AHC hi/lo test gave me 8+ graduations. Had some issues running tech stream. Opted for a double flush (5L), will truly work on the system in the future.

As the summer came about, I started to have a water leak in the passenger seat. The evaporator box was missing the gasket to seal the box. Put in a fresh one and changed the cabin air filters while I was in there. My nephew, 6, helped with this job.

Had my headlight flooded with an inch of water. Surprised it still worked. Got two bolts loose but had to cut off the third with an oscillating power tool to remove the headlight. Drained it, dried it with my wife’s hairdryer and found a decent crack. Sealed it up with RTV and reinstalled. The bolt that I cut lived in a little well on the headlight assembly. The hairdryer softened the glue in the well and I removed the bolt with pliers. Dumped some RTV into the well, put in a new bolt, and reinstalled the headlight so the bolt cured in the right position.

Getting a little more comfortable mechanically, it was time to address the wheel bearings. The pre purchase inspection noted a failing wheel bearing, passenger side. I noted nothing when driving and didn’t feel excessive play in the wheel when I had the vehicle jacked up, but I did know the bearings need to be repacked every 30K. Opted to bang out rotors, brakes and brake fluid “while I was in there.” Rotors were probably ok without replacement, but brakes needed some love.

On the passenger side I wasn’t happy with my seal installation. The seal was noticeably deformed. I should have used something bigger to evenly tap in the seal. When I put everything back together I could hear noise when spinning the rotor on the shaft. I pulled it all out and put in a new seal, also I packed a bit more grease in my inner bearing in case that was the source of my noise.

On the drivers side, I had a hell of a time with rust. Root cause was the “Knuckle Spindle Oil Retainer” was shot. I had to order a new gasket, hardware and neck. The passenger side wasn’t as bad, but will plan on replacing the retainer next time.
 
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During the wheel bearing job I was hemming and hawing over the spindle bearings and greasing them. Eventually bought the slee tool and some ngli 1 grease.
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While I was waiting for parts, I pulled out the power steering fluid reservoir, soaked it in degreaser and then blasted it with brakleen. Slapped it back on and did a nice flush. There is slight weeping on my power steering rack, that Lexus flagged on the PPI. Hasn’t moved a bit on the reservoir, so I’m just monitoring. I made sure to flush slow and threw in some AT 205 with my flush and fill. I know there is risk in doing a flush and it’s believed sediment in an old system can help keep things plugged. I simply don’t believed deferring maintenance is the solution for deferred maintenance - so I’ll roll the dice.

Still waiting for parts, I went ahead and started a brake fluid flush using a vacuum bleeder. Rear brake bleeders were shot. Got replacements in short order and bled all four corners. Since I’ve got 2 bottles left of Toyota DOT3, I’ll come back to the rears when I hit rear brakes. Laying under the rig gets old after a bit!

Parts in and hubs back on. To my dismay, no room for my circlip. Thought I royally botched the job. Turns out, it’s pretty common. Eventually found out TheForger on here makes a CV Puller. Pulled em out and bought myself the clearance to install the circlips.
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Lessons: I know I’ve put a bow on everything and made the jobs sound like a cinch (or maybe I haven’t!). Bottom line - they just aren’t. It wasn’t until my 5th or job so where I didn’t shear a bolt, spill something, forget to plug something back in or just have a mistake. That’s life. Things don’t go to plan. So, keep your PB Blaster handy and buy a few spare bolts and some extractor sets. Keep your cool when it’s all going to s*** and stay safe.

Upcoming work:
Passenger parking brake issues - Lexus said my bell crank is seized
Rear brake inspection
AHC Pressures - Techstream
Program spare key fob - Techstream
Snake sunroof drains
PCV - Wits End
AC Condensate drain extension - Cruiser Garage
Replace Spark Plugs, inspect coils


Other Notes:
Coolant, heater tees just done by P.O.
 
Great adventure. These trucks are well thought out. Working on them grows on you with time. Can you share more detail on the apple car play mod? Need to do this on my wife’s 100.

Specifically

Where All parts purchased
Type of apple car play screen you went with

How is it working for you? Any glitches?
 
Great adventure. These trucks are well thought out. Working on them grows on you with time. Can you share more detail on the apple car play mod? Need to do this on my wife’s 100.

Specifically

Where All parts purchased
Type of apple car play screen you went with

How is it working for you? Any glitches?
Happily! Since mine has navigation it’s a plug and play. It wasn’t cheap, but I did get 20% off buying through a group buy I found on subreddit r/Lexus. The Grom Vline2 uses the existing screen, so brightness and quality are not ideal at times, but Grom did they best they could have to plug and play. Since the AC controls also live in the navigation unit, we’re a little boxed in.
Only hiccup I had was the unit stopped working which was resolved by swapping to the other usb port on the unit.

Grom vline2

Usb pass through
https://a.co/d/36G7CNd

Usb pass through. Way better looking than dangling out my glove box.

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Microphone behind rear view mirror. Ran the wire up by the airbag in the pillar.
 
Are you an android user or iphone user? Found sometimes iphone does not work as well with android based carplay systems
 
What did you figure out about your oil pan drain threads?
 
No way! Grab a tube of ultra black RTV before you start. Scrape off that old stuff and pull the plug and check out the situation. Worst case is it's stripped out and you put it back like it is.
 
No way! Grab a tube of ultra black RTV before you start. Scrape off that old stuff and pull the plug and check out the situation. Worst case is it's stripped out and you put it back like it is.

https://a.co/d/cbFB0H5

Well would this plus coating the threads in sealant be idiotic? Obviously would try to retrieve the metal shavings but there is a risk some shavings will be left behind.
 
Any way you could post some pics of the glove box and how the Vline sits in there? Did you adhere it to the glovebox itself or is it floating? Do all of the cables get in the way of the box opening and closing? Is there any strain on the wire connectors when opened or closed? Thanks!
 
Any way you could post some pics of the glove box and how the Vline sits in there? Did you adhere it to the glovebox itself or is it floating? Do all of the cables get in the way of the box opening and closing? Is there any strain on the wire connectors when opened or closed?
It comes with mounting brackets, which I used for my install. The wires are long enough to allow opening without issue or tension. To get the wire runs right you’re best off removing the glove box (like 2 screws), and then you can see the open channels you need to use.
My mic wire is going off on the right and everything else is on the left.
IMG_1109.jpeg
 
https://a.co/d/cbFB0H5

Well would this plus coating the threads in sealant be idiotic? Obviously would try to retrieve the metal shavings but there is a risk some shavings will be left behind.
That method looks to use the o-ring, not sealant, to seal the tapping bolt. I don't think sealant would hurt though, if needed.

Not sure the diameter of the oil drain plug offhand. Would need to go one-size bigger, unless threads are just boogered. In that case, sealant on the fixed threads might work. First need to figure out what the actual issue is.
 
It comes with mounting brackets, which I used for my install. The wires are long enough to allow opening without issue or tension. To get the wire runs right you’re best off removing the glove box (like 2 screws), and then you can see the open channels you need to use.
My mic wire is going off on the right and everything else is on the left. View attachment 3436516
Nice finish to the install. Mine is still unattached in the glovebox. I've been meaning to move it to the center console and maybe have it take the place of the stuck CD player.
 
Nice finish to the install. Mine is still unattached in the glovebox. I've been meaning to move it to the center console and maybe have it take the place of the stuck CD player.
My DVD player lives in the center console, courtesies of the previous owner. So thankful they didn’t install it like barbarians, since that might have made my grom install an exercise of patience. The glove box is so uselessly tiny anyway I just threw it in there.
 
My DVD player lives in the center console, courtesies of the previous owner. So thankful they didn’t install it like barbarians, since that might have made my grom install an exercise of patience. The glove box is so uselessly tiny anyway I just threw it in there.
DVD player? Like a port installed option?
 
That method looks to use the o-ring, not sealant, to seal the tapping bolt. I don't think sealant would hurt though, if needed.

Not sure the diameter of the oil drain plug offhand. Would need to go one-size bigger, unless threads are just boogered. In that case, sealant on the fixed threads might work. First need to figure out what the actual issue is.
I used an extractor and sucked out the oil from the dipstick. I wouldn’t necessarily recommend this but I didn’t want to open a can of worms. I got out 6.3 L or so, so I feel good that old stuff is out.

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Oil change done!
 
For being pretty new to wrenching, you're doing some seriously good work and have probably saved $6-10K in what the idiot dealer would have charged for the fixes you have made. Good job!

If your oil pan is stripped, I would just buy a regular 1x oversize drain plug (not the one with the removable center) and carefully install it in the pan. with a washer and roll with it.
 
For being pretty new to wrenching, you're doing some seriously good work and have probably saved $6-10K in what the idiot dealer would have charged for the fixes you have made. Good job!

If your oil pan is stripped, I would just buy a regular 1x oversize drain plug (not the one with the removable center) and carefully install it in the pan. with a washer and roll with it.
Thanks man! I really hadn’t thought about what a dealer may charge… highway robbery for certain! I couldn’t have done it without the internet. Thankful for this community and YouTube, oh and the FSM.

Maybe I’ll do the oversized plug next oil change. Because the dipstick line has two 45’s, you really gotta shove the tubing into the pipe to get to the bottom. Upon inspecting the tubing, I believe I “skinned” the tubing a little. It’s credible a flake or two is in the oil now. Hopefully the filter gets them first.
 

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