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Chasing down some wiring issues today to see why my wipers aren't working and I got my fuel gauge to work! And then the 4wd indicator light came on? And the wipers still don't work.
Whatever. For the moment I'm happy with the fuel gauge.
 
Got the wipers to work! It turned out the fuse terminal was corroded, so a little time with and emery cloth and all is good.
I have a blue sea 12 circuit block, but I think I'm going to wait until after winter before I start rewiring the circuits.
 
Added an ammo can center console and used it to mount the cb. Out of the way but still easily accessible.

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After wheeling @ Cruisin' the Woods, I found that my suspension is super flexy. So flexy in fact that I need to add an anti-wrap to the front axle. Does anyone have any examples of that they've done personally? There's not a lot of room in the front and I'll have to make a crossmember of sorts to attach the anti-wrap.
 
There is one guy I've seen do a front anti-wrap on his 60. He's in colorado, but I can't remember his username. His 60 is brown. Loves getting all kinds of stupid twisted up in the rocks.

Give me a couple of hours and I'll come up with it.
 
First bit of lights installed. I'm waiting on a 50" light bar, 10w fish eye for reverse, and 24 5w lights that I'm using as rock lights. I'll keep updating as things come in and I finish installs.

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Propane has 10% less "power" than gasoline. However, the effective octane is much higher than pump gas so if you tune the motor and ignition to be optimized for pane, you can pretty much make the total hp a wash. Dual fuel trucks tend to get about 10% worse mileage and power loss. Dedicated pane trucks shouldn't.

Figure a solid day of wheeling per 7 gal forklift tank.

Also, the oil may still look clean, but it does break down. Not changing the oil is a bad idea.
 
Mace said:
Propane has 10% less "power" than gasoline. However, the effective octane is much higher than pump gas so if you tune the motor and ignition to be optimized for pane, you can pretty much make the total hp a wash. Dual fuel trucks tend to get about 10% worse mileage and power loss. Dedicated pane trucks shouldn't.

Figure a solid day of wheeling per 7 gal forklift tank.

Also, the oil may still look clean, but it does break down. Not changing the oil is a bad idea.
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This is good info, thank you.
I have a line on a full propane set up, but am having to wait for the guy to get back to me. As soon as I get my hands on it I'll write up the install.
 
The biggest thing on propane is getting it adjusted correctly. You can run through 7 galls of propane in an hr if it's tuned improperly, and it'll still run fine. Propane is very tolerant of maladjustment.
 
Mace said:
The biggest thing on propane is getting it adjusted correctly. You can run through 7 galls of propane in an hr if it's tuned improperly, and it'll still run fine. Propane is very tolerant of maladjustment.
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I thought the regulators were self adjusting to avoid that kind of thing?
 
not at all...

There was a company that made a vacuum adjusting setup (digital) that would moderate the mixture once you got it close, but I do not believe that they are in business any more.

If you are fuel injected already they make a couple of setups tho.
 
Went wheeling today and the fan "interfered" with the radiator. Lost all the coolant in about five seconds, and all this happened in the middle of a technical filter for one of our local obstacles.
 
Glad I got a chance to make it to the run. Bummer to see the radiator issues. Will you be bringing the hundy to the Christmas tree run next week or will the 40 get fixed this week?
 
I found a simple solution to the radiator/fan interference and that is to swap the long GM water pump for the short style. Other than having to replace the radiator this is a fairly simple fix and I'm still only fixing stuff the original owner took shortcuts on. Not really a big deal.
 
So having wheeled on the super slinky Dakota leafs, I've found that although fantastic for meandering through the rocks, they pretty much suck in any other aspect.
I picked up some 56" chevy 2wd leafs and will experiment with pulling a leaf from them for the rear. For the front I'm going to keep the Dakotas, but add a longer leaf and possibly an overload. I know this will lift the truck another inch or so, but I think the increased spring rate will help with stability. I'm also looking into some sway bars.
 
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