Intro & Ongoing Build Thread - '84 FJ60 (1 Viewer)

[2 E L O]

'69 mustang and a 60?! Let's be friends!

Yes, sir! Here's my REAL baby...

 

[cps432]

Yes, sir! Here's my REAL baby...

View attachment 1300326

Dirty words.... Dirty words...

 

[2 E L O]

Well, she's all back together. I didn't have any left over parts, so I suppose that's a good thing. I found quite a few things that were 'wrong', on top of having some fiber and rubber gaskets that were in poor shape.

-Accelerator pump inlet check ball was seized.
-Accelerator pump outlet check ball was the wrong size (small vs big).
-Primary jet had a chunk of something lodged in the orifice, looked like a pretty significant obstruction.
-Float was way out of adjustment according to the FSM (high and low levels), but IIRC the fuel level in the sight glass looked fine when it was on the truck. I really hope I don't have to pull it all apart to adjust the float once I get it all back on the engine. That would suck...
-The 'mechanical' portion of the secondary operation was out of adjustment. At full throttle, the linkage didn't create that small opening in the secondary that's required for the vacuum operation to take over.
-Secondary diaphragm was full of cracks and would not hold vacuum.

Now I just need to replace all the vacuum hoses with new silicone hoses then I'll get everything put back together and hopefully she'll run better!

 

[2 E L O]

So, I'm replacing all the vacuum lines.... My HAC was just hanging there, not in the bracket...and the larger vacuum line from the bottom of the HAC wasn't connected to anything. Can anyone enlighten me on where this terminates? I did a very quick once over at the Emissions FSM and didn't see this info...

TIA.

 

[2 E L O]

Had a minute to use the search function. Found my answer.

HAC routing help please

Thanks, @Output Shaft!

 

[2 E L O]

Had some issues getting it to idle after the carb rebuild but made some good progress last night thanks to @gregnash in this thread: Rebuilt carb won't run without choke Still have some tuning to do, but it's a relief to have it running again.

So, quick question... I noticed this on the garage floor this morning after I let it run for a few minutes last night while I was messing with the carb. This was where the condensate from the exhaust was dripping... Is that a sign of anything? I know the PO added in an extra cat or 2 to pass emissions awhile back... Hoping it's not the elephant in the room (i.e. head gasket)...

 

[gregnash]

Nah mine has always done the same thing... more than likely it is unburnt gas that has gotten through the system, mixed with some condensation in the exhaust and got spat out. Like I said in your other thread, now comes time to adjust other things and slowly start dialing her in. You could try dialing back the fuel screw some and see if she still spits like that. I want to say after mine was all said and done I have it about 3 1/2 turns out.

 

[2 E L O]

Rats nest of vac hosing has been replaced... There are 4 short 3mm hoses behind the t-stat neck that I have yet to do and I have a few of the miscellaneous 5mm hoses yet to replace. I ordered 30' of the silicone 3mm, but I ran out. Luckily I had some OEM Toyota vac piping leftover from working on my LX450 a couple years ago. I should have ordered 35' of the 3mm...

 

[gregnash]

Nice! Did you go with standard black or are you using a different color... And yeah always good to order some extra feet so that way if something breaks in the future then you can easily replace.

 

[2 E L O]

Nice! Did you go with standard black or are you using a different color... And yeah always good to order some extra feet so that way if something breaks in the future then you can easily replace.

I got the TurboLogic black silicone stuff from boostcontroller.com. I thought about different colors, but I wasn't sold on the bling factor given that everything else is old/ugly/dirty... If the truck was red or blue then I would have thought more seriously about the color matched...

I've really been pep talking myself... I have the same perfectionist issues and OCD that most other TLC guys have, and that mentality is REALLY hard to get past. My whole intent with the 60 was not to turn this into a restoration project, but just get it repaired to where it's reliable, safe, clean, and not hideous looking. Easier said than done!

I am terrible with the "while you're in there" factor... With my Mustang, I once turned a simple replacement of an $8 (30 minute) drum brake wheel cylinder into a full $1,500 (month long) rebuild/replacement of the entire front hubs, suspension, steering, and brakes. My wife was super impressed with that...

 

[gregnash]

Oh yeah we all have those "while your in there...." stories. I have been pretty good about keeping that stuff to a minimum but I have an innate ability to explain them in a beneficial manner to my wife. I sure I could have gotten away with only checking the head and machining the head/block surface but I turned it into a full waterpump replacement, cleanup, machining everything I can and other stuff type job. Caveat was that I had to be able to be driving again in less than a month an a half once I started wrenching because we were sharing a vehicle at that point. That was good enough motivation for me to get isht done!

Now I just got to figure a way that I can convince her that a welder, a GOOD welder, would be beneficial to use!!!

 

[Output Shaft]

I noticed this on the garage floor this morning...

If in the past the engine was running poorly and for short periods of time, soot builds up in the exhaust pipe.
When the car is started up cold, the inefficiently ignited fuel creates warmish exhaust that has extra water vapor in it that will condense in the cold exhaust pipe...creating liquid water...which gets spit out the exhaust pipe, taking some of the oily soot with it.

Or so my theory today suggests......

 

[2 E L O]

If in the past the engine was running poorly and for short periods of time, soot builds up in the exhaust pipe.
When the car is started up cold, the inefficiently ignited fuel creates warmish exhaust that has extra water vapor in it that will condense in the cold exhaust pipe...creating liquid water...which gets spit out the exhaust pipe, taking some of the oily soot with it.

Or so my theory today suggests......

The soot I just chalked up to running extremely poorly and rich when I was screwing with the carb. I was getting a fair amount of black smoke, so it was pretty rich there for awhile.

I was mainly worried about the rust-ish color of the stain left by the water...That's what had/has me a little nervous...

I got few little goodies in the mail today... I cheaped out and ordered from RockAuto instead of going OEM--mainly because of the plug wires. OEM wires are stupid expensive compared to the custom cut OE replacement Denso's from RockAuto and I have a hard time believing there is much--or any--of a quality difference.

 

[Output Shaft]

Take some pics of those Denso wires. The terminal ends. Do they have numbers printed on them?

Curious what they look like.

 

[2 E L O]

Take some pics of those Denso wires. The terminal ends. Do they have numbers printed on them?

Curious what they look like.

As requested...

I have no idea what these numbers mean. They are not labeled 1-6 as I have read the OEM wires are... Small sacrifice when paying 1/4 the price of OEM, though.

 

[gregnash]

Interesting.... Actually if you talk with guys like Georg (@orangefj45) lots of them will tell you that you should go OEM on the Cap and Rotor but can go NAPA Premium or whatnot on the wires and DENSO on the plugs to save a bit of money. Been doing this for a while now with my truck (did order OEM plugs the first time) and all has been well.

Interesting thing on the photo is they look like it is a kW rating for each wire.. Wonder if that corresponds with particular cylinders. Other thought is that it just is based on the length of the wire (kW rating for that length).

 

[2 E L O]

I don't think that can be a KW rating for each wire... I would guess the voltage drop difference between the longest and shortest is very, very negligible. Also, there is no rhyme/reason on the numbers in relation to length. So, my best guess is that those numbers are meaningless in regards to position/cylinder/etc. of installation and have something more to do with manufacturing or something like that...

 

[2 E L O]

I've been searching for an e-brake boot cover as mine had a couple big tears and was in poor condition. New OEM are NLA, most from part outs are in similar condition to mine, and the used parts dealers want an arm and a leg for ones in fair condition. I stumbled upon an eBay ad for an aftermarket replacement. $30 shipped! Toyota Land Cruiser 60 Series Emergency Brake Boot Brown

I got it today and it seems great! It fit perfectly and the color looked good with the rest of the brown interior.

 

[onemanarmy]

As requested...

I have no idea what these numbers mean. They are not labeled 1-6 as I have read the OEM wires are... Small sacrifice when paying 1/4 the price of OEM, though.

View attachment 1306629

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is that the length of each cable?

I hear you on the stubby 12mm wrench for the carb. I just cut one of my cheap harbor freight wrenches in half. I didn't see any other way.

 

[2 E L O]

is that the length of each cable?

I hear you on the stubby 12mm wrench for the carb. I just cut one of my cheap harbor freight wrenches in half. I didn't see any other way.

Negative regarding the length. Some of the cables that were almost identical length had drastically different numbers.

I ordered this stubby wrench set from Amazon before I installed the carb: Wrenches! The carb went on a helluva lot easier than it came off, that's for sure!