Interior Illumination Sophistication & Fascination of KUSTOM KOITo LED BULB Equipped Back-Lit Knob Pull Switches (2 Viewers)

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Thanks!Unfortunetely I can' t take a photos at this time (no camera or phone)...But I did upgraded for LED bulb(blue) from superbrights.com and need to look how many lumens it is(may not be 13 lumens and that may be a problem)..But it shines quite strong without knob screwed on the stick...And I have the same knob like yours on the pictures-the glassy looking top with word LIGHTS...It is US spec FJ 40 so I can"t understand why my knob is not lighting....What you mean -there is a green color filter or shade cone inside the knob?????So maybe that is the problem on mine??Honestly I beleive that LED bulb is strong enough because I can see it great through the little scratch I made inside the knob.


something is blocking the LUMENS ?

u looking at it at night or day time ?
 
Any time day or night if I look if light knob is iluminated it is not...But the fiber stick inside is...I can see it from the little scratch I made through the film of the knob...Like somebody poured black paint inside the knob for me not to see the light...Mystery .....
 
Another Wiper switch i Restored recently ,

take Note the Longer " Fiber Stick " as @drnekFJ40 has Now Officially Coined it


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You do the great job restoring them....I just looked at my LED bulb--it is a blue bulb BA-7 sb I think....They say it only has 1 lumen but it seems bright....What bulb are you using for your switches exactly?Where did you find 13 lumens LED bulb?
 
You do the great job restoring them....I just looked at my LED bulb--it is a blue bulb BA-7 sb I think....They say it only has 1 lumen but it seems bright....What bulb are you using for your switches exactly?Where did you find 13 lumens LED bulb?


Well there lies most or all of your problem , there is a Green Lens built into your headlight knob , the Blue Lumen's Light

Spectrum is getting Canceled out by the Green Lens or Vise Versa depending how u look at it .



From everything i have read & researched on the subject , anytime there is a Colored :rainbow: Lens involved for Anything including a FJ40

Headlight switch Knob , from a tail light to a side marker light . U must use the same color LED bulb as the LENs , for Maximum

Lumen Light Spectrum transfer to the Human Eye & Vision :idea:



Now , Rocket Science aside

U also most likley have a Dirty " Fiber Stick " at Both ends , especially the Rear end inside the switch bulb socket receiver

u will need Isyoprohol Alcohol based electronics circuit board cleaner , or simple bathroom rubbing alcohol and a few cue tips

pull your switch , and wet cue tip , dab gently and clean rear one well , wipe dry with a clean cue tip , clean front one too , especially the very Tips of both carbon sticks ends where most Lumen flow occurs , DO NOT use brake clean or other Harsh solvent u WILL melt the Fiber Stick

the cleaning combined with the correct green Lumen bulb should give u results
 
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That makes sense!!!Thanks....I just love blue lights,my DD dash has blue lights and I have to use green bulb for the light switch..What a :bang::bang::bang: But I might like it anyway....
 
Pulled my switch and took a couple of pics for you, this is from a 4/73 FJ40, US market. Still works pretty good, but while I had it out I opened it up and cleaned the contacts and put a little fresh grease under the slide. Helped some, still a little rough. Tightened the copper rivets too, some seemed looser than desired on the contacts and connectors.

My illumination light may have a plug on the harness, couldn't see it and did not dig for it under the dash. Although it may not, I always drop the switch down and just remove it from the rear socket/opening. I seem to recall it was part of the harness, but it has been 22 years since I restored this rig, memories get fuzzy.

It inserts in the black plastic opening in the lower photo and travels with the slide as you operate the switch. It requires movement of the loom with each activation.

Never quite understood what the spring tensioned guide for the shaft is supposed to do, looks similar to the wiper switch body, maybe it was just a place holder. The keeper will not rotate, it locks itself, but is under spring tension. Twists the knob ever so slightly.

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Pulled my switch and took a couple of pics for you, this is from a 4/73 FJ40, US market. Still works pretty good, but while I had it out I opened it up and cleaned the contacts and put a little fresh grease under the slide. Helped some, still a little rough. Tightened the copper rivets too, some seemed looser than desired on the contacts and connectors.

My illumination light may have a plug on the harness, couldn't see it and did not dig for it under the dash. Although it may not, I always drop the switch down and just remove it from the rear socket/opening. I seem to recall it was part of the harness, but it has been 22 years since I restored this rig, memories get fuzzy.

It inserts in the black plastic opening in the lower photo and travels with the slide as you operate the switch. It requires movement of the loom with each activation.

Never quite understood what the spring tensioned guide for the shaft is supposed to do, looks similar to the wiper switch body, maybe it was just a place holder. The keeper will not rotate, it locks itself, but is under spring tension. Twists the knob ever so slightly.

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i wondered about the spring tension guide thing before too ?

Other toyota pull switch's use this same concept , along with the immobilized wiper rotate ' " Thing "

if u look closely when fully assembled the aluminum pull shaft slides or rides on it a little bit like a guide , but mainly the spring presses on the back of the pin wrench retainer Bolt nut when its fully installed , this only can conclude its like a lock washer and prevents the pin nut from coming loose after hundreds of in and out actions motions of the knob stalk

thats my theroy and im sticking to it :)


does your switch have the part# 20030 stamped on the metal side where the TEq & TR logos are ?


i have 2 of this style , both stamped 20030 , but oddly are different switches like u described , one sucking the bulb socket inside during operation , one Not ?


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I didn't take note of the numbers on it. After I took thos pics, I cleaned it up and promptly stuck it back in the dash to see if it worked any better. I'll stick my head under there and see if I can see the 20030 number. Looks like it may just be a generic switch housing number? I see the two you pictured say F37 and O38 maybe that denotes newer and older bulb placement. I'll look for that too.
 
Ragingmatt - like what you've done.

I cannot recall if my '79 FJ40 had illuminated switches. I suspect ICD40, the new owner might be interested though.
 
The short 3 digit code is F37 & o38 are production dates of some kind similar to air horns on Carburetors

The 20030 Denotes the last 5 digits of the toyota part #

The 20030 fixed back lit knob was used only in the 1973 production year on USA Fj40,s

It was the predisessor to the 60010 back
Lit knob w/dimmer rheostat switch that was introduced for the 1974 USA spec FJ40 modle year

I can only assume that the FJ55 followed these same pro date upgrades and changes too , but I am not % certain
About that ?

U have a nice Very Rare switch , and u tuned it up too , good show :popcorn:

Send me a PM with your shipping info if u want a green high Lumen LED bulb upgrade for it , I will send u one out
 
Ragingmatt - like what you've done.

I cannot recall if my '79 FJ40 had illuminated switches. I suspect ICD40, the new owner might be interested though.


Thanks !

Yes , a 1979 USA spec FJ40 would of indeed had a lighted knob switch
 
Took a peak last night, 20030, V32

Was trying to look at other switches, could only see wiper switch readily. Looked to be a shorter body than my headlight switch, not lighted of course. I didn't see any numbers stamped on the bottom surface, but it did have two numbers printed on the side that started with "PAT"

Thought that was kind of interesting to see a possible patent number on a Toyota switch.
 
Took a peak last night, 20030, V32

Was trying to look at other switches, could only see wiper switch readily. Looked to be a shorter body than my headlight switch, not lighted of course. I didn't see any numbers stamped on the bottom surface, but it did have two numbers printed on the side that started with "PAT"

Thought that was kind of interesting to see a possible patent number on a Toyota switch.


yes , actually most Toyota Pull switch body's will have a PAT. stamp or PAT. Pending one ,

the wiper switch should be stamped something like 12030 , hazard 60020 most likley

i have Two 14030 stamped headlight switches that are a Final Revised & Updated version of the 60010 & 60011 , the moving parts are

effortless & the Fiber Stick is Much larger in diameter, the dimmer Rheostat coil spring is stainless steel , and they use a Plastic push in bulb

light socket , which translates into twice the LUMENS , The Knob brightness Level Is SICK !

 
a Concept Late Model FJ40 Propeller blade Style FAN PULL switch i am working on using

a OEM TOYOTA backlit knob body, Switch body & " Custom hand-made " Illuminated Knob-

face



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