I've been researching the tools on the web, and the best site that I have found so far is the Not2Fast turbo calculator. The calculations appear to be valid, however I haven't dug through any of my old text books yet.
http://www.not2fast.com/turbo/glossary/turbo_calc.shtml
The site is fairly self-explanitory (sp?), and it's neat how it posts the particular point in question on the selected compressor map.
A 1HZ has it's torque peak at 2200 rpm, HP peak at 3800 Rpm, and a 4500 Rpm red-line. I've played with the numbers for all of those RPMs, and then went looking for a compressor that hit peak efficiency at 3000 RPM. It's looking like a T04B-S3 is pretty optimum for a 1HZ
It's a neat tool, but remember, Garbage in = Garbage out.
Jim
http://www.not2fast.com/turbo/glossary/turbo_calc.shtml
The site is fairly self-explanitory (sp?), and it's neat how it posts the particular point in question on the selected compressor map.
A 1HZ has it's torque peak at 2200 rpm, HP peak at 3800 Rpm, and a 4500 Rpm red-line. I've played with the numbers for all of those RPMs, and then went looking for a compressor that hit peak efficiency at 3000 RPM. It's looking like a T04B-S3 is pretty optimum for a 1HZ
It's a neat tool, but remember, Garbage in = Garbage out.
Jim
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I think over time something will probably break. So, I was able to rotate the compressor housing down a little bit more after filing off some on the sqare bump(?) that's on what used to be the top side of the outlet tube. I filed it down some and was able to rotate the housing a little bit more to make more room for the mount for the waste gate controller. I also moved the mounting holes almost a .5in and was able to trim about .5in off of the bottom of the mount. So, altogether I was able to drop down the mounting braket maybe .5in. This put the other end of the rod at the middle of the waste gate arm. I also bent the rod a little bit. It still has a little bend from the waste gate controller, but I feel much better about it now, though still not a straight run. Still have problems with leaks in the system, will see this morning if anything got quieter.
I think I finally got all the connectors tight enough that no more problems of silicone connectors coming loose. I am thinking of having some sections of the intercooler plumbing welded together to eliminate some of the potential coming loose. Also, I see the valve cover vent as a potential problem. There is a bit of goo that goes into the intake and it is slowly covering the walls of the plumbing and I assume the interior of the intercooler which over time I am sure will gum up the intercooler. So, first I was going to try and build a oil/air seperator and after talking about this with a friend, he suggested to just vent it overboard. So I attached a long hose and have it running down the drivers side of the engine and past the frame and plugged the hole at the air intake tube. Be sure to make a provision for pressure relief in case the end of the hose freezes over for those of us living in the cold climates, I just cut a slit about a inch long in the hose which I think would open if enough pressure built up in the hose. Picture is of the hose from the valve cover.
Anyway, my best mpg was about 25mpg on one leg with the rest coming in around 22mpg. The highest EGT I saw was about 700F. Unfortunately at the same time my water got up to about 170F, I still had a piece of cardboard covering half the radiator. So, pretty good, can't wait till we get #2 diesel again and turn the snorkle intake back facing front.