Intake manifold leaking - How many bananas and how much $$

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Rob Faucett

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Apr 19, 2006
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78
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680
Location
Seattle, WA
My intake manifold is leaking. How many :banana::banana:'s to repair? Thanks in advance.
 
Is it

Is it desmogged or does it still have all the smog equipment on it?

I have this same prob. but with the exhaust manifold.
I still have all the smog equip. , I had a mechanic turn this job down.
He didn't want to dig in there. It's not technical, if you label where everything goes but I think its rather labor intensive. I'm probably going to combine desmog, header install and new intake/ exhaust gasket in one shot while I'm in there.
 
Dan at American Toyota will send you everything you need. I think my kit cost about 120ish dollars, but I am not sure. I replaced the manifold gasket, the small ring gaskets on the ends, the butterfly thing inside the intake manifold (or is it the exhaust?) , the gasket to that. Keep in mind torqspecs and tightighting pattern. There are planty of links here to find them. One helpful tip, tag everything you disconnect if you are still smogged. I spent an hour taging over 60 lines and was very happy I did. Putting all that back together without tags would have been impossible for me.
John
 
I think that's a risk job.

I believe the intake needs to be mated with the exhaust, then both machined to ensure flat, same plane gasket mounting surfaces. There are also some rotating gizmos in the assy that need to be tacked during the pre-machining phase.

Not sure what c-dan's kit has, but all that alignment and machining is a little on the sketchy side in my very humble opinion.

Others?
 
I seem to recall the complete unit is still available new from Toyota. I think mine was $600 or so. It will solve all the problems for another 20 years, but it is a bit spendy. On the other hand, the labor to do the fix on yours will be spendy as well.

What exactly is leaking? If it's just an exhaust leak, check the EGR port which always leaks on these trucks and is fixable in place with a $10 gasket.
 
mine at a local shop was $390 including all the machine work on both the intake and exhaust. dealer quoted me close to $900.

look in the sticky thread and find a mechanic to tackle the job. it is not hard but very time consuming for the novice/ shade tree mechanic.

clint
 
It's not THAT tough to do with the smog stuff. I'm no :banana::banana: mechanic and I didn't even label anything on mine. The FSM is actually pretty good for sorting out the spagetti of vacuum lines. Just step your way carefully through it and double check the routing of each line as you go. Carefull with the plastic nipples on those 20 year old vacuum switches! The part I dislike about the job the most has nothing to do with smog equip - that damn manifold bolt next to the firewall.

$35 to have my manifolds milled flat
$45 or so for FelPro gasket and copper coat
$10 for EGR pipe gasket
One afternoon to button it all back together

Anybody can do it if I can!
Butt
 
As mentioned before, make sure it is not your EGR pipe gasket. It is the "J" tune that connect tot the rear of the exhaust manifold. It is held on with 2 nuts adn they are a pain to get to.
12mm deep socket and long extension from underneath the rig is the only way I've been able to get to those. Not too bad from that angle though.
Butt
 
12mm deep socket and long extension from underneath the rig is the only way I've been able to get to those. Not too bad from that angle though.
Butt

Agree, I've replaced it so many times I can do it in 30 minutes.
 
Thanks. I am working off of a note from the dealer, just says "intake manifold leaking." What's the best way to tell where it is leaking. The "where" sounds like the difference b/w $200 and big bucks!!

BTW - Dealer suggested $1800 to repair . . .
 
Thanks. I am working off of a note from the dealer, just says "intake manifold leaking." What's the best way to tell where it is leaking. The "where" sounds like the difference b/w $200 and big bucks!!

BTW - Dealer suggested $1800 to repair . . .

Ouch!!!! :idea:time to shop dealers and shops!!!:lol::lol::lol:
 
Hey Rob,

Coupla pieces of advo,

Investigate and find exactly what's wrong before committing to any heavy lifting. There are ways to determine here an air leak using an external fuel source (propane, carb/choke cleaner), deductive methods of elimination (pinching vacuum hoses) and best of all, communicating DIRECTLY with the dealer mechanic who diagnosed your truck!!! However, I would still verify his diagnosis before continuing.

If you do go after the manifold, clean the compartment and manifold area very well. After that, compare the vacuum routing on your truck to a good, known diagram to assure proper installation before dis-assembly.

There are lotsa details to a paired manifold set up, but those details can be covered when and if you continue.

I'd put the job at :banana::banana::banana: bananas if you pay attention to the details and do it right. And it is a job that will give you pride and satisfaction if you properly diagnose and repair the problem.

Best regards,

Rick
 
What about the huge nut on the EGR? That was a PITA for me.
Toad
:mad:

You don't need to undo it, just loosen the egr cooler from the side of the block and you get enough wiggle room. It's one of those things: give a hard job to a lazy man and he'll find an easier way to do it.
 
Jb weld
 
Last edited:
Thanks. I am working off of a note from the dealer, just says "intake manifold leaking." What's the best way to tell where it is leaking. The "where" sounds like the difference b/w $200 and big bucks!!

BTW - Dealer suggested $1800 to repair . . .


There are eight fasteners that hold the I/E to the head...two are nuts.

I'm doing mine right now actually. When I was taking it apart, the two nuts in the center where the intake part is were loose, actually one was altogether off!

You might want to check them all and tighten them to the correct torque values and see if that helps you in the meantime.

:doh:
 
Once you read the threads, you will see an on going debate about machining the surfaces or not. I did not machine mine because they looked to be in good shape when I tested them with a streigt edge and feeler gauges. I used the set of gaskets from C-Dan, did not double up the main gasket like some people recommend and have had no problems. Most people recommended going back in after about 5 or 6 heating and cooling cycles to double check the torque-settings on the bolts and I did this also. I had to retighten one bolt and have had no problems with the job.
The most important thing I learned about this job was to give yourself time to do it right, and definatly go back in and torque check.
John
 

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