INTAKE/EXHAUST MANIFOLD GASKET SEALANT QUESTION (1 Viewer)

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Gents,

Putting a machined I/E manifold back on my 60 with a OEM gasket. Do you guys use any sealant between the head and the gasket and or between the gasket and the I/E manifold? I've heard of some guys using a copper paste or something. Any and all suggestions would be helpful.

Cheers
 
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Yah I had milled altogether. It looks like they spot welded the horns so the horns didn't move while they were milling everything.
 
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x2 on dry mount , clean mating surfaces really good and use a quality gasket. I've used SOR or Mark's Off Road gaskets with good luck, typically 50 bucks or so. Don't use cheap gaskets or you will be doing it again sooner than you like! It's a PITA job anyway, do it once right.
 
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THIS IS THE BIGGEST P.I.T.A JOB ON A CRUISER!!

Got it back together today and got her up to running temp for about 10min. Gonna let her cool down overnight then heat her up again tomorrow. So after a total of 2 heat/ cool cycles I'm going to pull everything off again so that I can get to the manifold bolts and re torque. I think it's impossible to get to all the manifold bolts with the air cleaner, carb and air rail on unless someone on here can prove me wrong. Then throw her back together and be done with this horrible chore for at least 100k....

Any suggestions from folks?
 
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Well I'm sure someone will chime in and poo poo what I say BUT the FSM does not nor ever did say anything bout re-torque on intake/manifold installs. Now if we are coming up with EXTRA un-nessesary work to counteract poor workmanship or poor quality parts then maybe. My point is I have never re-torqued the exhaust/intake manifold and never been a problem? I clean the bolt threads and mating surfaces use a stock OEM gasket and follow the FSM. I think the Toyoda engineers took into account expansion and contraction of the metal parts being bolted together. If the gasket is not holding after a single proper install there is a problem on the mating surfaces or bolts could be pulling from the block causing lack of torque. So save yourself the aggravation of trying to re-torque the manifold. My .02 and opinion.
 
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Well the I/E manifold was machines bone straight and I used an OEM gasket with new hardware so I think it should have be done correctly. That being said how bout I be the guinea pig and see if everything is torqued up correctly after a few heat/cooling cycles.....if it's good to go nobody on MUD will ever have to do it again!

Thanks for the advice!!
 
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Don't mean to sound pissy :cool: Just hear all sorts of "information" and don't want to see you spend time doing more work on a PITA job than you have to. My opinion is, not sure that the torque is or will be the same after continued use as when you first set it during the initial install. It may loosen or tight'n but I'm sure it is as Toyoda intended, especially a OEM manifold. I'm not totally convinced that re-torquing does not do more harm than good once a critical sealing surface is set? Think bout all the sudden cooling or high temp conditions that occur in the course of 50k miles! If that had that much effect on the critical sealing surfaces as a manifold or head we would be re-torquing and changing gaskets all the time!
In all my LC's I have installed a vac gauge and use that as my primary tune-up and engine monitor. You would be surprised what you can tell whats going on with a motor with just a vac gauge! Once the gasket on the intake/exhaust manifold is set you should have anywhere from 15-18 steady needle inches of vac if not more. Once that is achieved you are good to go. If we are to re-torque critical surfaces why not do the cylinder head too? My .02 :cheers:
 

NookShneer

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It is possible to re-torque all of the manifold bolts with out removing the carb/air cleaner assembly.

It's not that easily to line everything up and I remember having a second person hold a light directly on the area so I could kinda see what I was doing.

I used a series of different size extensions (up to 12in I think) and a 3/4 to 3/4 universal flex (wobble) connection. In the middle or before the ratchet.

It's not easy to find your way to the manifold bolts, but it is possible.
 
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Please let us know if anything changes between heat and cool cycles. I have my motor out right now and was just getting ready to place the manifolds on. I'll hold off a day if needed.
 
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Another way to look at it is that it only takes 15 minutes to get the carb and air rail off, do the retorque, and then another 15 min to reinstall carb and air rail...and doing it and doing it right will give you peace of mind (reduce the uncertainty) for the rest of the 5,256,000 minutes (that's 10 years worth of minutes...) you are driving the rig...
 
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FJ40Jim

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X2 on it is possible to access all mani fasteners with engine assembled. It requires a selection of 3/8 sockets & extension, including but not limited to:
14mm mid
14mm shallow
17 shallow
17 unversal
short wobble
medium wobble
long wobble
medium straight

IMHO, it is comforting to retork the loose fasteners after a few temp cycles. Perhaps not necessary, but no harm is done.
 
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OK gents the numbers are in. I stripped it all down and built her back up today. Did not feeling like screwing around with wobblers and extensions. The exhaust manifold bolts that seemed to have loosened up the most were the 2 nuts on the on the studs. I'd say in general all of the bolts torqued down another 2-5 PSI after two 30 minute heat up to operating temp then cool down over night heat/cool cycles. I put a machined (as a unit) intake exhaust manifold on my 87' FJ60 with an OEM gasket JUST THE GASKET NO SEALANT. I put her on..... metal/gasket/metal. I'm glad I stripped her back down and re torqued the manifold bolts. The 2 PSI that I got on most of the bolts may or may not ever matter but it does give me some peace of mind that it was all done correctly. 2 issues I now have, 1. she backfires a bit now. I'm assuming that without an exhaust leak I'm going to have to adjust something. I've never adjusted her valves so maybe I'll start there..... The 2nd issue is that the wire coming out of the plug that went to my exhaust temp sensor and thus the carb fan pulled out of the plug!! Crap!! She worked like a dream before the wire pulled out of the plug. Anyone know if these plugs/connectors are repairable? I'll post of picture of what I'm talking about in the next post. Hope this helps someone.
 
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In order below, temp sensor plug unit (not sure what else to call it), me pointing to the end that the wire pulled out of, picture of the end that the wire pulled out of.

Anyone know if there is a fix for this?



ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1412117874.628783.jpg
ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1412117889.960331.jpg
ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1412117900.877937.jpg
 
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I think you can pry the rubber gasket off the back of the connector and solder the wire back to the connector.
 
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Torque is measured in Pound /foot, or Newton/meters. ( Not to be confused with Foot/pound which is a measurement of energy) pounds per square inch(PSI) is a measurement of pressure. :cheers:
 
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Make sure that the surface where your bolts rest is totally flat. I had mine machined and the shop did not do it the way I told them to as a whole unit together and when I went to putt he Intake and Exhaust manifolds together to bolt up, the part where they but up where the bolt head rest, was uneven.
 
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X3 on being able to check manifold bolts while the carb is on.
=======================

Although others may disagree….
It may be prudent to initially torque the small, rear manifold bolt located next to the firewall to the mid range of the torque value recommended in the FSM then never re-torque it again.

This is a very small bolt that heat-fatiques over time and it can easily be over torqued and sheared off (don't ask) all in the name of "making sure everything is nice & tight according to spec". As far as I am concerned, this little manifold bolt is a TTY bolt that should not be touched once torqued correctly the first time & the only time to put a wrench to it, after it's installed, is to remove and replace it.

The bigguns are another story…I check them after a few heat/cool cycles, then leave them be.

manifold-bolt.jpg
 

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