Instructions on EGR removal on 2LTE

[hoc4197]

I reattached the vac lines and boost sensor after cleaning it . Amd still no boost light / green led light on dash . Will get a new temp sensor and see . Maybe what i fixed was damaged . The glow plug timer was not working , after i soildered the wires back to the socket , the glow plug sensor worked again . I am thankfull to you for suggesting and giving me tips to fix . I am a mechanic uaually on overhaul or 4w.drive , but whennit xome to electronics and sensors ...i am a bit lost ....my usual builds are bj70 , 3b 4 speed , 5speed , bj72-13bt , vx80s 1hd.t ,1hz.t Thanks

 

[Dprio34]

@hoc4197 , Just to confirm, the above pic is a Water Temp Sending Unit. You probably have 2 Water Temp Senders on that LJ. One for the A/C and another for the Water Temp Gauge on the Instrument Cluster. The Boost Sending Units look a bit different. If you took a pic of the Intake Manifold prior to removing the EGR, trace out the Vacuum Line after the filter. That should go to the Boost Sensors/Sending Units that send the signal to your 2L-TE ECU Computer.... RE-Connect that , and you will get your RPM Boost Gauge back running and probably resolve your issues with the Idle as well.

 

[hoc4197]

@hoc4197 , Just to confirm, the above pic is a Water Temp Sending Unit. You probably have 2 Water Temp Senders on that LJ. One for the A/C and another for the Water Temp Gauge on the Instrument Cluster. The Boost Sending Units look a bit different. If you took a pic of the Intake Manifold prior to removing the EGR, trace out the Vacuum Line after the filter. That should go to the Boost Sensors/Sending Units that send the signal to your 2L-TE ECU Computer.... RE-Connect that , and you will get your RPM Boost Gauge back running and probably resolve your issues with the Idle as well.

I did now . But still same . No boost green light . The temp sensor , 1 is to guage , 1 is to ecu , from the temp sensor beside the starter . When i turn key to on . The green light come on . Once engine starts ..it stays off even i rev up . And when i put the trans into D . Step on gas , no power (think it stayed in 3rd) and engine knock s and dead again . Put it in P and click it starts with 1 click of the key ... maybe my temp sensor is all wrong or wrong wired ... the electrician will bring a diagones test , will that help ?

 

[hoc4197]

I notice you are at las vegas . I used to school in burlingame , mills high school and college at san mateo college . Then i came back to philippines . My first suv s10 blazer v.6 . Anyways thank you so much for replaying for my engine issies . This is my 4th lj78 ... here i ise a 2017 lc200 with a 1vd.t engine v8 diesel - company car . Will be returning that once the contract ends on 2022 feb.10 . So i qas rebuilding to see what i would use as a daily driver ... i will borrow a ecu from these toypta surf ... i help rebuild the engines but no electonic or wires ...

 

[hoc4197]

My fortuner 1kd.t 3.0 diesel - sold . My prado was a 2L.t now a 1kz.t - sold . My 1984 nissan 720 , upgraded to dyna 30 and 33 , with a td.27.t - sold also .. then fj40 with lj78 prado suspension - client suv , and his ford with 7.9 diesel . For the pass 28 years building some of these ...

 

[hoc4197]

Removed the old fuel heater type fuel filter assembly and uaed a new 1kd.ftv fuel filter like what i had in 2012fortuner 3.0 . Then tomorrow i will get a mew temp sensor and maybe a boost sensor ... the 1kz.t prados have a different boost sensor (map sensor) . So will see what i can get amd replace that . Hope it works . Also found a web to get codes without a scanner reader . Hope that helps . Will do that first thing tomorrow
.. ...https://www.2carpros.com/articles/toyota-trouble-code-definitions-and-code-gathering-method-1990-1995 ....

 

[hoc4197]

@hoc4197 , right above your EGR Blanking Plate there is an Open Line On the Intake Manifold. That is what I was referring to. On my engine that connects to the Boost Sending Units to the Green Light/Red Light on the RPM Gauge and Boost Compensator for the Injection Pump. I would look at your injection Pump for an input, boost sensors, or cap that. ( Im not 100% sure if the 2L-TE has a boost compensator on the IP, I cannot see it on your pic, it may go through the ECU). But leaving it open, can’t be any good. I'm sure the Green Boost light is missing its input if it is not illuminating.

View attachment 2562162

My boost sensor works when it reaches 2800 to 3200 rpm . The temp sensor near the starter is replaced , engines runs a bit better , no uneven idles .... But when before i shift to D , engine dies in 3 seconds .... Now when i shift into gear , engine dies after 3 to 5 meters . I tried to adjust the kick or shift cable , sometimes it pulls to L gear but most of the time it dies our after 3 to 5 meters . When i shift to L , i am able to drive around slowly , any sudden step on the gas padel , engine bogs down and sometimes die out . ... any suggestions ... scheduled to go for a scan on this coming feb.16 .... thanks

 

[Musafir]

@hoc4197 , right above your EGR Blanking Plate there is an Open Line On the Intake Manifold. That is what I was referring to. On my engine that connects to the Boost Sending Units to the Green Light/Red Light on the RPM Gauge and Boost Compensator for the Injection Pump. I would look at your injection Pump for an input, boost sensors, or cap that. ( Im not 100% sure if the 2L-TE has a boost compensator on the IP, I cannot see it on your pic, it may go through the ECU). But leaving it open, can’t be any good. I'm sure the Green Boost light is missing its input if it is not illuminating.

View attachment 2562162

Hello,

What is that sender in the intake for? Also what is the purpose of relocating the vaccum line for the boost sensor on the intake side?

 

[Dprio34]

@uzimuffin , I do not have that sensor on my 2L-TII. That appears to be a boost sensor off of the 2L-TE.
I'm not aware that anyone has "re-located it", however some people forget to re-attach the vacuum line to the boost compensator after working in that general area or it dry rots off, and then the Hi & Low Boost Lights on the dash no longer function as they should.