Instructions for LED Headlight upgrade (3 Viewers)

EscapeWagon62

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Longmeadow MA
Can’t thank @amw2320 enough for this thread. I have never touched electrical in my life before this.
Two LED High Beam//Low Beam harnesses which plug into the factory high beam socket reversing polarity at the factory high beam socket built(One already installed before I took the photo)
One passenger side “high beam dash indicator light enabler” harness built and ready to plug into the low beam factory socket
One divers side “high beam dash indicator light enabler” harness built and ready to be installed

Hope to finish the job tonight and fingers crossed that I don’t release the magic blue smoke of death in my electronics 👍

View attachment 2255142

View attachment 2255143

View attachment 2255144
Hallelujah!!!
@amw2320 rocks.
Low beams stay on when high beams are activated.
High beam indicator works in the instrument cluster.
I can see at night.
Thanks for all the photos of the harnesses
 
Joined
Apr 17, 2019
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San Diego, CA
A few years ago when I originally when I did my LED headlight conversion on my 1985 FJ60 I did a single relay setup but it did not include anything to trigger the high beam indicator. About six months ago I picked up this harness from Amazon hoping that it would be a plug and play fix for the issue, but sadly it it still didn't work.

After reading the recent activity of this thread and the solution @amw2320 came up including an inline resistor I got inspired to tackle the issue again. The end result is pretty similar to the solution for the FJ62 but the FJ60 seems to have slightly different wiring (note the that Low and High negative lines on the Toyota female H4 connector are swapped) and there is only one plug per side instead of two obviously.

Since I wanted to retain the single relay and I had that harness from Amazon which had a nice male H4 plug and two ceramic female H4 plugs (my previous setup just used male spade terminals and some cheap plastic H4 sockets I had from other projects) I just converted it to the single relay setup below. This was actually very simple since it was just repinning one of the relay sockets and then adding in the resistor, all the H4 sockets I left in tact.

The passenger side is fed off of the drivers side and the Toyota female H4 connector on that side is just tucked away.

Hope this helps some FJ60 owners out there, and remember to always confirm your vehicles wiring setup before building a new harness.

FJ60 LED Headlight Wiring.png
 
Joined
May 25, 2014
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Any clue what the value on the resistor would need to be for a 24v vehicle?
I'm not an electrician, but I followed this chain to get my FJ62 (12V) set up with LED headlights. Had to switch a few things since my LEDs all contained both high and low beam connections in each headlight, but those were minor.

I'd think a 50W, 20 or 22 ohm resistor would give you the same result on a 24V vehicle.
 
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Harpers Ferry, WV
Just ordered the JW Speaker headlights tonight after a little incident in the dark.
Found this thread and drew up the attached diagram for the FJ62.
I might be dumb but why is the resistor necessary in the circuit for the hi beam indicator. I don't really see the point.


Headlights.PNG
 
Joined
Jan 20, 2010
Messages
56
Just ordered the JW Speaker headlights tonight after a little incident in the dark.
Found this thread and drew up the attached diagram for the FJ62.
I might be dumb but why is the resistor necessary in the circuit for the hi beam indicator. I don't really see the point.

This came from the very first post on the thread (see below). Its supposed to keep you from blowing your headlight fuses when flashing your brights. I never even tried it without the resistor.

◦ The resistor can have a resistance anywhere from 1 to 50 ohm (I don’t recommend less than 5 ohm or more than 30). The resistance you choose will determine how bright your high beam indicator light is. A 5 ohm resistor will make the indicator about as bright as it was with the original headlights. Increasing the resistance to 10, 20 or 30 ohms will reduce the brightness of your high beam indicator by roughly 10, 20 and 30% respectively. Some people find that the high beam indicator is brighter than necessary with the original headlight setup.

◦ The catch with this resistor is that, due to the Toyota wiring setup, the resistor gets a full 12 volts when you use the “flash mode” of your vehicles headlights (pulling the high/low beam lever towards the steering wheel briefly). If someone were to hold the lever in flash mode, the resistor would get very hot and burn out. If you want to avoid this possibility, the resistor must be able to handle the full 12 volts indefinitely. In order to calculate what size (wattage) of resistor is necessary, you must take the voltage squared and divide it by the resistance that you choose (P = V2/R) P = Power in watts, V = voltage, R = resistance in ohms. If you choose a 10 ohm resistor and assume an operating voltage of 14.4 volts, the resistor must be able to handle at least 20.736 watts. A 10 ohm, 20 watt resistor (similar to www.amazon.com/dp/B0087YHQLW) would probably be very safe. If you aren’t concerned about someone holding the flash mode on for more than a few seconds at a time, I think a 10 ohm 5 watt resistor would be more than adequate. In most cases where the flash mode is only ever used for a quick flash, a 1 watt resistor would probably be just fine. The system will operate just fine with no resistor in place until you try to use flash mode, at which time you will blow both headlight fuses.
 
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This came from the very first post on the thread (see below). Its supposed to keep you from blowing your headlight fuses when flashing your brights. I never even tried it without the resistor.
Yeah I’ve read that and just don’t understand why it would blow the fuse. There’s no way the little indicator bulb is going to increase the amp draw enough to pop the fuse and it can’t be that the sudden flash of the high beams would do it either since the resistor isn’t on that portion of the circuit. Only thing I could see is that it has a separate ground so maybe that’s why.

Anyways the headlights are still in transit from Canada, but I plan on using a 20ohm resistor because I’ve swapped the indicator bulb with an LED when I did all the interior lights and that one in blinding. I will however try it without a resistor in place and report back. I’m also working on some more detailed diagrams with color coding from the factory harness and will post those up once complete.
 
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Joined
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going to throw another variable in here and ask for some advice. i have a IPF harness so i could run H4/H1 lights. will this harness work off the end of the IPF one or should i just remove it?
 
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going to throw another variable in here and ask for some advice. i have a IPF harness so i could run H4/H1 lights. will this harness work off the end of the IPF one or should i just remove it?

I would assume so... the IPF set up is just relay that are trigger from the original wiring harness, correct? And the lights are powered directly from the battery.

So I think the only thing you’d need to check it that the relay switches the positive and not the ground. And that they trigger all 4 lights when the high beams are on.
 
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struggling here guys. my ipf harness doesn’t work with this harness so i’ve disconnected it and i’m going off stock harness. i can get the passenger side to work but my drivers is doing something funny. the low beam won’t come on. the high beam will but no dash indicator. i’ve gone over the harness again and again and it all seems right. any help would be appreciated.

here’s my harness
A0DAD3CE-9208-4D61-B2B2-D1ACBC8DFA86.jpeg
AAC4EEDA-4CD3-487F-94AB-EDB627EE1BA9.jpeg


it seemed to be working on mock up but when i put them in the headlight bucket it stopped. i’ve checked wires and they all have good connections. i swapped the low beam over to the right side and it works so it’s not the light.

could i have a bad resistor? i thought that would only affect the indicator.
 
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Joined
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struggling here guys. my ipf harness doesn’t work with this harness so i’ve disconnected it and i’m going off stock harness. i can get the passenger side to work but my drivers is doing something funny. the low beam won’t come on. the high beam will but no dash indicator. i’ve gone over the harness again and again and it all seems right. any help would be appreciated.

here’s my harness
View attachment 2496871View attachment 2496872

it seemed to be working on mock up but when i put them in the headlight bucket it stopped. i’ve checked wires and they all have good connections. i swapped the low beam over to the right side and it works so it’s not the light.

could i have a bad resistor? i thought that would only affect the indicator.
Can you tell me which color wire goes to which number on the relay. I can't tell from the pic.
 
Joined
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I kinda forgot about updating this thread with diagrams and pics of my set up. I just found this guy in my documents, not sure if the colors are 100% accurate, I think that what I was finalizing before I uploaded, that or the plug lay outs. I know I swapped some things around on different sockets to get them to line up.

Assuming you didn't move any of the wires around on your relay block, I'll assume
Blue = 30
Black = 85
Yellow = 87
White = 86

What I can see is wrong on your right away is that your Blue and Black wires need to be spliced together. We're using the same power source to trigger the relay, power the switched portion of the relay and power the headlight. Then on YOUR male plug make sure it lines up to the following on the factory harness. (this is specific for the wires on your plug since yellow changes to black in your case)

White = Red/Yellow
Black = Red/Green
Blue = Red/White




Headlights.PNG

IMG_0257.jpg
 
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i see. so on the pictures of the harnesses in post 90 and 95 the two wires that are shrink wrapped together are actually spliced together in there!! i didn’t understand that. ill look at my harness this morning and make that adjustment. ill also cross reference your relay numbers with my relay wiring
 
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That’s all it took. The lights work perfectly now. Thanks so much for your knowledge and helping me out. My black wire goes to the 30 terminal my blue wire goes to the 86 terminal my yellow wire goes to the 87 terminal and my white wire goes to the 85 terminal so it was the white and black wire that needed to be spliced together
image.jpg


now i just have to reassemble the light housing and adjust them! i’m very happy and excited to have these working
 

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