Inspecting a 100 series for "LEAKS" "Yeaks" (1 Viewer)

[2001LC]

As many of you know, my hobby is to inspect and work on 100 and 200 series.

Late last week while I was waiting on brake master cylinder. Another local with an 05LX w/147K stopped by. He doesn't wrench and has been taking his rig to a local Toyota specialty shop and Lexus Dealership to get all systems up to par and baseline since he purchased the rig about a year ago. Timing belt has been done, wheel bearing service, heaters tees done, all lubes flushed, brakes recently done, AHC inspected and flushed, etc. Additionally repeated inspected by these shops, just very recently. What more could anyone do! It's a smart looking Dark Gray no rust, with a sharp looking Roof Rack and Slee sliders, resting on KO2's. It's being preparing for a long road trip to the Northeast. Wanting vehicle ready for the rust belt and a long trip, no doubt "shops" had road worthy. Now just wanted to stop water leak into second row floor mat. It also had some wind noise.

We needed to isolate a leak into interior of cabin second row. My driveway has a slop. So we parked the LX with front end high and rear end low lower. We then started at third brake light and move forward from there with a garden hose.

I found more than "a" water leaks:

1. 3rd brake light leak.
2. Roof rack fastener leaks (after market)
3. Windshield side molding leaks. (a replacement windshield)

I took a peak under front end I noticed both steering rack boots wet (leak) and FDS boot weep (leak). So I popped the hood to look around. OH NO more leaks!

Here's what I found:

1. Rack & pinion leak at output shaft seals into boots (Reservoir low, but to dirty to really see how low)
2. Radaitor leak. Rad low by ~2 qts and reservoir empty ~1 qt more. Thats 3 qts plus low, NOT GOOD. Cracks front side of radiator plastic top at two points.
3. Combustion gas leak (spark plugs walking out)
4. Vacuum leaks, MANY. Oddly long term fuel trims (LT FT) -20%, expected positive with vacuum leaks

I observed a few other issue so I dig a little deeper.

1. K&N air box, tube and filter. Bad idea. This changes air flow and air filter is way to exposed the environment. It will get wet while driving in the rain. This will reduce air flow. MAF sensor was on of the dirties I've cleaned.
2. Vacuum lines modified to adapt to K&N air tube, loose and poorly secured.
3. Power steering reservoir very dirty.
4. Brake fluid dark and over filled (likely leaked at from overfilled)
5. After market wiring for head light bulb conversion.
6. Battery acid leaking down side of battery. Normal, not a leak, but never neutralized and cleaned. Damaging
7. Battery tie down way to tight.

I decided to inspect front end and drive line:

1. Snap ring gap to wide and still had factory snap rings.
2. Wheel bearings loose.
3. LBJ (Lower ball joints) failing.
4. TRE slight click. (Okay but put on watch list)
5. Propeller shaft and spiders not lubed.
6. Brake & AHC bleeder caps missing or bad (moisture leak into bleeders rusting them damage components) costly end result!

Now how is that so many shop service writers and mischances missed all this stuff. He's a non wrench counting on these so call professionals to make sure he ready for a long road trip and that his rig is maintain properly.

A major failure about to happen:
This LX would not have made to it's destination in the Northeast. I've no doubt he would have blown a spark plug out of the head and gone into limp mod, IF HE WAS LUCKY.

I say if he was lucky, because; The radiator leaking, and was now low enough, he would have gotten a false coolant temp on the gauge (engine temp below half way mark). Like many he would not have recognized the signs (sounds, feel and smells), which takes a real gear head to catch! I've no doubt the end result would be a blow engine while on a road trip a few weeks from now.

# 3 plug ready to blow out of head. Likely take head plug threads with it! All plugs loose and leaking combustion gases staining and cooking coils

So close to a very expensive repair. Talk about just in time luck. The silver-lining the interior leak.

Tel-tell signs Toyota "pink crusty"

Two crack if front top one seen here

Reservoir empty. Radiator took 2 qts before undoubtedly coolant system has air pockets and will take more.

I could have put ~1 gallon in the system had I tried.

I'm looking for signs of overheating. So far we're looking good!

 

[2001LC]

Minor FDS boot weep at multiple points. Clamps likely just needs snugging, which I did.

Lower ball joint boot not seated. No big deal, but further testing/inspecting did reveal both lowers ball joint are bad. I'll post some videos of this test later!

Both rack boots wet from within. Only wet lower half, sign of output shaft seal leak.

Reservoir (can't see here) to dirty to see level. But we can see hoses are not leaking. So boots wetness is not from here.
Found hole in screen of reservoir so it's leaking grim into Vane pump and rack & pinion.

 

[2001LC]

K&N filter exposed to elements

Battery wet with acid. Funny history shows recently serviced.

Vacuum line leaking

 

[2001LC]

Bleeder caps missing or bad, just after recent service. DUH Accumulator and rear brake are the worst bleeders to have exposed. Leads to costly repairs.

Lube points have been greased, but some look dry. SO I don't think recently lubed as should have just been during OF&L at Dealership.

 

[2001LC]

Windshield leaks due to missing rivets that secure side molding to A pillar.
Sorry hard to see

 

[Njck22]

By side moulding not attached you mean that this resulted in wind noise, not a water leak correct? And the roof rack, were all points in need of a reseal?

Once again I wouldn’t trust anyone but myself to do a job right, But certain specialists do a good job, they are out there, but I’ve yet to find them at dealerships. This situation seems the harken back to the culture of a business. It’s easy to instill a culture of cutting costs and getting through vehicles quickly. A culture starts at the top. A repair shop or dealership is a business, and the mangament at the top needs to instill this culture of doing things right. It’s difficult to find someone doing good work at a dishonest business (they’ll leave to find a place thst applauds honest work and doing a proper job)

 

[suprarx7nut]

Your posts are better and better every day. Great stuff.

This sort of info is great for beginners (and experienced folks alike) to see some potential failure points and wear items. You're making me self-conscious of all the little things I'm sure need attention in my engine bay. I should probably replace all the vacuum lines everywhere at this point.

Keep the pics coming, they're all great to see!

 

[bentonrover]

Well wow. Such a shame he paid all that money at the dealership. Send him back with your list

 

[abuck99]

Good that he found you Paul. He now has a long illustrated list to take back to his dealer to shame them into a refund.

 

[dace voit]

Good that he found you Paul. He now has a long illustrated list to take back to his dealer to shame them into a refund.

This^^^. Shameful the lack of attention by the techs.

Also, those K&N filters are silly in stock applications like this. People think that they will increase power and all they do is drag in hot air from the engine compartment and gunk up the MAF sensor with the oil from the filter.

 

[CasaDeChaos]

I also live in Colorado. How do I get on your list to take a look at my 2005?

 

[2001LC]

By side moulding not attached you mean that this resulted in wind noise, not a water leak correct? And the roof rack, were all points in need of a reseal?

****

"Windshield molding" Both water and wind noise, I suspect. Any hole leading into cabin will allow water.

I'll be pulling every roof rack bolt and sealing with 3M rain gutter seam sealer. I stopped testing as soon as first fasteners were found leaking at rear corner. Based and info of angle where the rigs is parked daily, the rear was not the only fastener leaking. The third brake light leak did not show it self easily, as was not bad. Until I pulled inner hatch molding, which was wet inside.

I've not even gotten to the water and air leaks yet. Tackling the mechanical stuff first, and just found more that was done wrong. Which would lead to costly repairs in near term if I don't correct.

Your posts are better and better every day. Great stuff.

This sort of info is great for beginners (and experienced folks alike) to see some potential failure points and wear items. You're making me self-conscious of all the little things I'm sure need attention in my engine bay. I should probably replace all the vacuum lines everywhere at this point.

Keep the pics coming, they're all great to see!

Thanks for the kind words. I don't know how great! But I try to be helpful.

I find vacuum line even in low mileage 07 need reworking ever time. Most common. PCV and vane pump idle up double vacuum line.

I'l try, I'm months behind in posting Emerald (00LX w/560K km). Ton of stuff there. I've done other job for local mud guys recently. One would have lost fornt whell drive (snap, axle or hub flange) on first hour a medium off road trail. It was the worst axle and hub flange wear I've seen. He was so lucky I found it the week before he was head to the hills!

Well wow. Such a shame he paid all that money at the dealership. Send him back with your list

Believe me, I see this stuff daily. I like investigate the why. So as I take apart, I'm inspecting for causes. More often than not it's improper procedure. Owner drives away and problem seems fixed, so he's happy. Not knowing a bigger repair expense is around the corner. All because job not done right. Or PM not up to date. Or inferior/cheap parts used.

Good that he found you Paul. He now has a long illustrated list to take back to his dealer to shame them into a refund.

It really was a silver lining he had the water leaks. Had he not. He'd driven cross country and had a very bad experience without a doubt.

Most will not take back to dealership or INDY. They just don't have the time or want to deal with.

I didn't post it, but had another last week. I was asked the service wheel bearing and put on new slotted and drilled rotors and pads. Front drive shaft teeth/splines/snap ring all ready to break loose. The most wear I've ever seen of axle and hub flange teeth/spline. He is and avid hiker and mountain climber. I've no doubt he would have lost front wheel drive, within his first hour on a trail this season.

This^^^. Shameful the lack of attention by the techs.

Also, those K&N filters are silly in stock applications like this. People think that they will increase power and all they do is drag in hot air from the engine compartment and gunk up the MAF sensor with the oil from the filter.

Your dead right Dace on all counts, as usual.

 

[2001LC]

I also live in Colorado. How do I get on your list to take a look at my 2005?

Just PM me. You're welcome to come by anytime. My door is always open! I'm in the shop most days and nights. I'll take a look at your rig anytime. You can than leave it with me or schedule with me a time that fits for us both.

 

[2001LC]

Yesterday after parts run, that didn't go as good as usual. That is, only 1 of the 555 LBJ I ordered was in. Also one PVC hose was wrong fitment. Toyota breaks up parts numbers at May 2005. After May the VVTi engine PN # is used for all parts, which this is not a VVT engine. So DS PCV is different size then parts guy gave me.

Toyota considers any manufactured before August (1st or 30th IDK) to be that year production. So a VVT made, say in July 2005, is consider a 2005, not a 2006 even if it is a VVT, which most think VVTs are only 2006 and 2007. Since my parts were coming from Toyota on this, the VIN # of the LX was useless to give my parts guy.

I didn't get to work in the shop until about 2PM. So I only got one ball joint R&R done. But did not get wheel hub back on. Why?

Well, I knew I'd be replacing snap ring with thicker one and resetting preload of wheel bearings as inspection indicated. Records indicate a INDY Toyota shop in Conifer CO on 7/18/18 at 135K (12k miles ago) service wheel bearings, among other things. So I plan to not service the wheel bearings.

I was hopefully I'd not need to service the wheel bearings, but needed a peak to make sure. So all considered, I elected to pulled hub off steering knuckle, rather then leave to R&R LBJ. My plan was to reset preload and snap ring with new thicker OEM. Bring both to spec and not clean or re-pack wheel bearings and hub or pull the hub oil seal.

Also there was a faint scarping sounds. I was trying to isolate the sound. I thought it the usual bent FDS dust shield or brake dust cover.

Darn if plan didn't change again

Seems while doing wheel bearing service 12k miles ago. The shop put hub oil seal in backwards. This means the seal metal protion is not flat with back of hub. The seal inner portion has a raised lip, that was now riding and wearing on the back side of spindle (steering knuckle). The back of hub within seal area of wheel speed sensor, has deposits of fine metal within the cavity now. I've know idea if this would affect wheel speed sensor. But likely oil seal will fail prematurely, with fine metal girding it and with it backwards. The seals certainly would not make to next service.

It would also hold hub out at least 2 to 10 mm, while setting preload. I'd would get a false reading on spring scale. This would leave wheel bearing way to loose, as they were.

So, now I've got to re-due the wheel bearing service. I must clean, pack and replace seal(s). As it is now is too likely metal is or will get in bearings at this point. Oh well, one more area we can stop damage before it happens reducing future expenses and increase reliability.

The tiny little spec that look like dust, are metal of seal ground down.

Notice the seal is raised above hub surface, WRONG! Should be flipped over and flat with it hub.

Proper fitment of oil seal flat side out, example:

I also found TRE looked good when I inspected it visually. But I also put my fingers on TRE, as steering wheel rocked back and forth. I could feel a little click. It too is going bad, but very early stage. Since we've a steering rack leaks at output shafts. I'll not replace the TRE ends now. I'd like to see if leaks can be stopped first. If not the rack needs replacing and TRE can be done then. If leaks do stops. TRE can be done without pulling knuckle, now that I've broken loose, they'll come off much easier next time, as I'll grease the shafts.

If I get time I'll post videos of this stuff later.

 

[DirtDawg]

Amazing work as usual Paul! I still need to stop by one of these days...

 

[nissanh]

Glad the truck had a water leak! This is why I always do repairs by myself. If I am close to Paul, yes I'll make it. Good job finding all those issues!

 

[G0lden]

Serendipitous timing to be checking for leaks! Paul I can’t thank you enough for your attention to detail where others haven’t. Scary how uncommon it is...

 

[cumminsBase]

I'll be pulling every roof rack bolt and sealing with 3M rain gutter seam sealer.

Can I get a link for this product?
I searched for it, yet 3M has about a dozen of "seam sealer" products.
Would be awesome if I could get the one you're tried, tested and approved.

Thank you!

 

[2001LC]

Amazing work as usual Paul! I still need to stop by one of these days...

Thank you means a lot coming from you Very nice to hear from you Connor, it's been to long. Please do stop by anytime.

Glad the truck had a water leak! This is why I always do repairs by myself. If I am close to Paul, yes I'll make it. Good job finding all those issues!

Thanks!

Can I get a link for this product?
I searched for it, yet 3M has about a dozen of "seam sealer" products.
Would be awesome if I could get the one you're tried, tested and approved.

Thank you!

The sealer is just something I had lying around. It should work very well. I HOPE!

3M™ Heavy Drip-Chek™ Sealer | 3M United States

www.3m.com

 

[2001LC]

Dang it! Just found another bad ball joint. The Upper RH side. I missed in my inspection.

I been told we must pull the UCA to R&R the UBJ (upper ball joint) anyone know if that's true? If so any work around?



As I broke the nut loose, which wasn't tight at all. I was thinking how it must have not been torqued down, when someone rebooted. Wire tie on boot indicates reboot of ball joint. The the knuckle just slipped off the upper ball joint shaft. Not had one come off that easy before. In fact all three ball joint came off to easy.

So I did my usually ball joint inspect. That is by the FSM. Which has wobble the ball joint shaft 5 times. Then put on a tiny torque wrench and it must take a minimum of 26in-lbf to rotate the ball joint shaft. Actually I never find a used ball joint that passes that test. I don't actual have a torque wrench smaller than 1/4". I just spin by hand. This one keeps spinning after my fingers leaves it.

Darn it!

Wire tie indicates a reboot.

I don't have a picture of at the moment (Hub parts; hub flange, bearings etc.) soaking in solvent. I'll post picture of hub flange here later. Some how hub flange it took a hit on the end right were snap ring rides. This hit smashed the hub flange onto the axle, so I had to use a brass dowel to knock the axle through, to get hub flange off. The snap ring is factory size (E) 2.2mm. The grease cap it been reused many times and shot. The FDS appears to be and after market.

So I'll never know what happen here. Was it a road hazard hit the wheel, grease cap, axle hub flange. Or did someone beat the end of the hub flange with a hammer. I suspect a hammer. As also see pound marks on knuckle to release ball joints.

The wheel bearing locking nut, was on so tight I had to get my 3/4" breaker bar on it. Not seen that before. I could have broke loose with my 3/8" breaker bar, but the 3/4" leverage made short work-of-it. Seem like impact wrench used to put it on adjusting nut, who does that!

The oil seal in back of this hub flange was also in backwards. So the shop that did has miss-understand of procedure, not just one error. This seal was rubbing even more than DS.

Did I mention both hub flanges gasket are glued down with FIPG.
Seen that before the The Unicorn. Very bad practice. At-least they did not get excessive with the glue, where non should be use in the first place. I assemble with grease on both side of gasket not glue. I also grease the cone washer!

This Unicorn took so much work, hours of heat, P oils and pounding.
I video the, last few minutes of that glued down mess. Even cone washer were glued in. They didn't have a clue of how the hub flange works.


The outer boot seems to soft, not stiff like OEM. So I'm thinking aftermarket FDS.