What was the cause of the spark plugs walking out of the head? Improper installation torque? Bad threads?
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Dang it! Just found another bad ball joint. The Upper RH side. I missed in my inspection.
I been told we must pull the UCA to R&R the UBJ (upper ball joint) anyone know if that's true? If so any work around?
As I broke the nut loose, which wasn't tight at all. I was thinking how it must have not been torqued down, when someone rebooted. Wire tie on boot indicates reboot of ball joint. The the knuckle just slipped off the upper ball joint shaft. Not had one come off that easy before. In fact all three ball joint came off to easy.
So I did my usually ball joint inspect. That is by the FSM. Which has wobble the ball joint shaft 5 times. Then put on a tiny torque wrench and it must take a minimum of 5ft-lbf to rotate the ball joint shaft. Actually I never find a used ball joint that passes that test. I don't actual have a torque wrench smaller than 1/4". I just spin by hand. This one keeps spinning after my fingers leaves it.
Darn it!
Wire tie indicates a reboot.
View attachment 1984997
I don't have a picture of at the moment (Hub parts; hub flange, bearings etc.) soaking in solvent. I'll post picture of hub flange here later. Some how hub flange it took a hit on the end right were snap ring rides. This hit smashed the hub flange onto the axle, so I had to use a brass dowel to knock the axle through, to get hub flange off. The snap ring is factory size (E) 2.2mm. The grease cap it been reused many times and shot. The FDS appears to be and after market.
So I'll never know what happen here. Was it a road hazard hit the wheel, grease cap, axle hub flange. Or did someone beat the end of the hub flange with a hammer. I suspect a hammer. As also see pound marks on knuckle to release ball joints.
The wheel bearing locking nut, was on so tight I had to get my 3/4" breaker bar on it. Not seen that before. I could have broke loose with my 3/8" breaker bar, but the 3/4" leverage made short work-of-it. Seem like impact wrench used to put it on adjusting nut, who does that!
The oil seal in back of this hub flange was also in backwards. So the shop that did has miss-understand of procedure, not just one error. This seal was rubbing even more than DS.
Did I mention both hub flanges gasket are glued down with FIPG.
Seen that before the The Unicorn. Very bad practice. At-least they did not get excessive with the glue, where non should be use in the first place. I assemble with grease on both side of gasket not glue. I also grease the cone washer!
This Unicorn took so much work, hours of heat, P oils and pounding.
I video the, last few minutes of that glued down mess. Even cone washer were glued in. They didn't have a clue of how the hub flange works.
The outer boot seems to soft, not stiff like OEM. So I'm thinking aftermarket FDS.
View attachment 1985016
What was the cause of the spark plugs walking out of the head? Improper installation torque? Bad threads?
Over the years, I've found so much stuff messed up. I try to understand why!I serviced my wheel bearings using the advice in your numerous threads/videos. The PO had the truck serviced at an independent who specializes in domestic stuff... he was actually the seller on the PO's behalf. Generally a thorough and conscientious guy, but has no clue when it comes to wheel bearings. Mine had RTV under the hub flanges (luckily not the cone washers), too little grease, were WAY too loose, and had a far too much snap-ring endplay. In addition, the hub flanges had been removed multiple times with a cold chisel and were beat all to hell.
It is amazing how much abuse and ham-fisted mechanic-ry these trucks can put up with, though...
Over the years, I've found so much stuff messed up. I try to understand why!Ticking time bomb TICK TICK TICK: Spark plugs Alert Alert Alert!
TICK TICK TICK POP POP POP is a ticking time bomb, often mistaken as exhaust manifold crack or gasket leak leak. ALERT, ALERT, ALERT: Spark plugs are working themselves loose. "Walking Out" Then blowing out of head, taking their female threads of head with them! Very damaging! You think TICK...forum.ih8mud.com
IMHO, it's one or more of these:
General mechanic specializing in Toyota, not just 100 series.
Short cuts taken, as time allowed for job just not enough.
Error, from monetary distraction.
Not reading the FSM, for proper procedure.
Lack of experience.
Lack of mechanical shills.
Incompetency.
Sabotage, to insure future jobs of great cost for repair.
Just doesn't give a dam!
Drugs!
You should be. This issue is appearing more and more with the aging fleet.You've got me paranoid now! I'll check my plugs ASAP!
Exactly. But this is so common, but a shame to see so many Dealerships, INDY and Toy specialty shop foreman aren't more on top of there mechanics.