If you are running diesel, I also highly recommend that you swap over to 100% biodiesel. It has a very high solvent value and will clear the injectors nicely and safely in my experience.
You do need to be careful if you have not run 100% biodiesel before.
1) Do it gradually... biodiesel can be mixed in any ratio with petroleum diesel. I did it over several tankfuls... B10 / B20 / B40 / B60 / B80 / B100 (B means biodiesel and the number is the percentage compared to petroleum diesel as mixed in the tank... so B20 means I put in 20% biodiesel. I have ASTM-certified 100% biodiesel available to me commercially. So I would fill the tank with 80% petroleum diesel and then top-off with 100% biodiesel, thus getting me to B20, etc.)
2) I also purchased several spare fuel filters and swapped them out a couple of times as I worked my way up to B100 (100% biodiesel will clear the fuel tank and all the fuel system, including the supply lines, return lines, injector pump, and injectors. It definitely clogged a number of filters as I transitioned over to B100. The stuff that came out with the fuel filters was black/brown and goopy and it was clogging the filters. I never had an engine starve for fuel, because I would pre-emptively check and swap out the fuel filters before they were completely occluded.) Once you get to B100, you should notice that the vehicle will run noticeably cleaner and smoother. I noticed a big difference. Smoother, less vibration, less noise, and NO soot!!! (that's the most-amazing part) I was just amazed. No soot in the exhaust, no soot in the oil. No soot at all. Of course, when I mixed in petroleum diesel (e.g. when I was away from home and buying from truck stops), then it would start to generate soot again.
I have been running B100 for 10 years now. It's great stuff once you understand a few things:
1) It has a high cleaning or solvent value.
2) It has only about 90% of the energy of petroleum diesel, so your MPG will go down by around 10%.
3) It will degrade rubber fuel lines more quickly than petroleum diesel, so you need to either upgrade any lines you have, or be prepared to swap them out as they get soft (It takes quite a while for the lines to be affected, and most vehicles newer than 1994 have the newer viton-based fuel lines, which last a lot longer when exposed to B100).
4) It will gel up at temperatures below about 40 degrees F. In these cases, I just mix with more petroleum diesel to keep it from gelling.
Advantages:
* WOW. It REALLY cleans the fuel lines and the injectors and injector pumps.
* Engine runs VERY smoothly, less noisy, less vibration, no soot!
* Exhaust actually smells like fried food!
* It actually cleared up what little blow-by I had. I'm not sure how (My theory is that injecting B100 into the combustion chambers over the years dissolved some build up on the cylinder walls and the rings, etc.) but I used to have a little bit of blow by, but when I checked it a couple of years after swapping over to B100, it was GONE. No blow-by at ALL. Now to be fair, I swapped to probably a higher grade of oil than the PO, and I do change it every 3000 miles so the better oil may have cleared things as well, but I was just thrilled that it was gone!
* It's a lot safer fuel. It is actually non-toxic and edible! (Not that I would drink the stuff).
Anyway, thanks for listening to my little speech about biodiesel.
If you have a diesel with clogged injectors, I highly recommend you try B100 for few tanks. I'm pretty sure it would clear it out.
Muddy1