All we can do wait., but it's not likethere was every anything wrong with the old design, could it be improved, of course, but I'll take what I can get.

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You dont have to remove the pulley, just the bolt. However it would probably be a good idea to change the crank seal since you are that close to it.
3/4 inch drive breaker bar jammed against the inner RH frame rail. Bump the starter and it's done.
NOTE:
this is a potentially dangerous method and it's possible to break things and/or people in the process. DO NOT attempt it unless you are certain about what you are doing and do so ENTIRELY AT YOUR OWN RISK
I like the lawyer-like vernacular here...
3/4 inch drive breaker bar jammed against the inner RH frame rail. Bump the starter and it's done.
When you tighten it has anyone ever just put a little light threadlocker on and just gotten the bolt good and tight? I just rebuilt a 1FZ last year, sold it to a forum member, he and I have put on over 30k since I did the rebuild and he's had no issues. If I recall I locked the crank on the engine stand from the rear, and just made it as tight as I could. I know that it was not the spec of what? 300 FT LBS?
309 lb-ft actually.
It's that high because the oil pump drive gear is not keyed to the crank, the pully clamps it in place. If it's not tight the gear will slip and you will lose oil pressure and power steering assist.
Ask Romer about this after his SC install. This needs to be where it ought to be.