Attempt fail for the A442F or at least to my valve body. Same concept as mentioned in #post1 except the screw is not a screw in mine, just a round thing makes it not rotatable. So I guess I'll try an extra washer next
Improving Transmission Shifting (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Tools R Us
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Yep, they have to be shimmed.
Just did this didn't shim though.Was nice dropping the pan with the Napa gasket I used 5 years ago. Haven't driven it yet.
Just a heads up. Before you do this, buy a spare drain plug and crush washer and the fill tube O ring(mention by 86tuning). Had my drain bolt gall up when it came out. Luckily was able to chase the threads on the pan.
Also noted was the pan takes 4 quarts on refill not the 2 quarts noted in the FSM.
Don't get ham fisted when tightening up the bolts if you use the Napa gasket. Go around and tighten up back and forth since the gasket compresses. 65 in lbs for bolts and 15ft lbs for the drain plug. Don't forget to pull the dip stick and the fill tube bolt on tranny housing. If you use the Napa gasket use a bit of RTV or gasket goo to hold it in place before installing.
Just a heads up. Before you do this, buy a spare drain plug and crush washer and the fill tube O ring(mention by 86tuning). Had my drain bolt gall up when it came out. Luckily was able to chase the threads on the pan.
Also noted was the pan takes 4 quarts on refill not the 2 quarts noted in the FSM.
Don't get ham fisted when tightening up the bolts if you use the Napa gasket. Go around and tighten up back and forth since the gasket compresses. 65 in lbs for bolts and 15ft lbs for the drain plug. Don't forget to pull the dip stick and the fill tube bolt on tranny housing. If you use the Napa gasket use a bit of RTV or gasket goo to hold it in place before installing.
I increased the tension in the cable for my A440F and felt the shifts were greatly improved. Typically when driving, I lay into the throttle a bit until I want it to shift, then let off the gas to convince the automatic to go up a gear. I learned this driving style by having a POS first car that required it!
SmokingRocks
hopelessly addicted to Cruisers
The 'kick down cable' on the A442F has nothing to do with shift harshness. It's only serves as a component in the shift point calculation.
On the A343 that cable is as stated by the op. And I have heard that it takes seriously small adjustments to make a difference.
Now with the A440F being the fully mechanical predecessor to the A442F I would bet money that the cable is only for shift point determination not shift feel.
On the A343 that cable is as stated by the op. And I have heard that it takes seriously small adjustments to make a difference.
Now with the A440F being the fully mechanical predecessor to the A442F I would bet money that the cable is only for shift point determination not shift feel.
I read on here somewhere that the A440F cable also regulates "governor pressure" which impacts shift quality. Mine used to slip until I tightened up the cable.
Has anyone got a specific washer that is a known fit for shimming the spring? For example, a picture of the package from Ace Hardware, or a McMaster Carr part# or link to a source to purchase (like Amazon)? These dimensions listed give O.D. and Thickness, but no I.D. information. This would be great to know before dropping the Trans Pan and finding the purchased washer doesn't fit. I checked McMaster for stainless washers, and found General Purpose, Metric General Purpose, Metric Oversize, USS, SAE, and Mil Spec. Not sure which is the best candidate for direct fit. Modifying a washer is doable, but we should be able to identify to a direct fit solution for something as common and inexpensive as a washer.
1973Guppie
Supporting Vendor
something to add, finally got my yellowbox speedo correction working correctly and this has seemed to dial in the shifting patterns perfectly. Everything shifts where it should nowadays....
I was just wondering tonight if adding a washer behind the dial was feasible on my Lexus. It has basically the same tranny, but five speed. Leave it to MUD to figure it out first.
I’m hoping a filter change will make a difference too. My fluid is all fresh but even with my dial turned all the way up my tranny shifts a lot smoother than my friends’ identical cars. It ain’t right. And I’m sure their dials are still on the stock low setting.
I’m hoping a filter change will make a difference too. My fluid is all fresh but even with my dial turned all the way up my tranny shifts a lot smoother than my friends’ identical cars. It ain’t right. And I’m sure their dials are still on the stock low setting.
I don't think that LX450 has a different tranny than the Landcruiser of the same year.
So, I’ve read this thing half a dozen times. I’ve got a 442 currently, but will be switching to 440 soon. Several have mentioned adjusting the kickdown on the 440, been there on my old FJ80, but no one has mentioned if they’ve done the washer shim in the 440 or if it would work? Is the pressure solely dictated by the kickdown on the 440, or would the washer shim mod increase overall line pressure, if it’s feasible? Thanks, Michae.
You’re correct. The Lexus I’m referring to is my GS400. It has the A650e tranny.
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IIRC, the later trans pressure is electronically/solenoid controlled by the ECU?
You’re correct, there is a pressure control solenoid, and I’ll be investigating it as well. But all RWD Lexus models 98-05 are blessed to have the adjustment dial too.
Too cool...
I am finally going to drop my pan and do this.
Thanks for the info all.
.734" OD washer in 3rd position & adjust the cables starting at FSM spec.
Then adjust tranny cable 1 turn at a time.
I am finally going to drop my pan and do this.
Thanks for the info all.
.734" OD washer in 3rd position & adjust the cables starting at FSM spec.
Then adjust tranny cable 1 turn at a time.
97 Lx450 a343f
I took a look at my tranny cable adjustment yesterday & found that nub on the cable completely barried in the rubber boot. The cable was loose & wiggly... basically not even to spec... after 6 adjustments i ran the nut to the end which was about .5" from where it was. The nub now sticks out the same in pic that Tool R Us originally posted on 1st page.
The result was an improvement in shifting firmness, nothing huge... but I can tell that its an improvement toward the right direction.
@Tools R Us posted this pic.
As far as washer... it looks like an 1/4" washer gets you very close. I grabed a handful & started measuring found 2, one bigger & one smaller than .734"
Which confirms previouse post pic.
Is there a ideal thickness of shimming with a washer? @murf
Hey @Shoppy we were talky about this.
I took a look at my tranny cable adjustment yesterday & found that nub on the cable completely barried in the rubber boot. The cable was loose & wiggly... basically not even to spec... after 6 adjustments i ran the nut to the end which was about .5" from where it was. The nub now sticks out the same in pic that Tool R Us originally posted on 1st page.
The result was an improvement in shifting firmness, nothing huge... but I can tell that its an improvement toward the right direction.
@Tools R Us posted this pic.
As far as washer... it looks like an 1/4" washer gets you very close. I grabed a handful & started measuring found 2, one bigger & one smaller than .734"
Which confirms previouse post pic.
Is there a ideal thickness of shimming with a washer? @murf
Hey @Shoppy we were talky about this.
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I have over 4,000 miles on this tranny line pressure washer mod without any issues pulling a 25' 5,000# travel trailer to from California to Canada & back.
I am very glad I did it, thank you Kevin @Tools R Us for starting this thread.
The shifting is noticeably firmer, a step in the correct direction, but if I were to do it again I would go thicker. The total stack I have in it now is .0925" but I dont know how much thicker one could go. The pan is to much of a pain to keep dropping to play with it without a lift. There is a Transco shift kit for $95 on Summit & gasket at Witts End to go with it for $65 if someone wants to go that direction.
I am very glad I did it, thank you Kevin @Tools R Us for starting this thread.
The shifting is noticeably firmer, a step in the correct direction, but if I were to do it again I would go thicker. The total stack I have in it now is .0925" but I dont know how much thicker one could go. The pan is to much of a pain to keep dropping to play with it without a lift. There is a Transco shift kit for $95 on Summit & gasket at Witts End to go with it for $65 if someone wants to go that direction.
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I'm doing a 2uzfe swap in my 91 FJ80. I want to move the A340F valve body from my donor 2002 4WD sequoia to my 96 Land Cruiser A343F mated to the 2UZFE in the sequoia. I want to do this to avoid the line pressure cable which is not used in 2002 and I'm trying to keep the engine transmission harness the same. Looking at the valve body in the sequoia, it has 3 solenoids and a motor in place of the line pressure cable. Here is a pic from the sequoia valve body Will get some more pictures of both valve bodies.
Stumbled upon this tread a few day ago and it just so happens I’d been planning some fluid change maintenance on the 97 LX450 with 330k miles on the tranny and about 30K on a rebuild motor. So what the hell im gonna drop my tranny pan and turn that knob all the way up just to see what happens.
So step 1: drain and drop the pan, easy enough. I didn’t take the front DS out or move anything. Just went for it. Getting the pan back on with the gasket maker is ehhh.. anyway.
So....... yeeeaaahhh. That piece there in the corner is probably about the size of a small pea and there were a few other pieces about a 1/4 the size of that one also and I’d say there was a 1/4 mm of fine shavings just laying in the bottom of the pan. At this point I was pretty scared that I was past the point of no return and all I could do was clean it out and hope for the best. It’s what I did anyway.
I just got home from where I was working on the truck and wow, I never knew it could shift so good. The truck no longer “falls” into gear. It grabs it and goes, I’d be interested in the shim idea also but the first time I put the pan on I looked over and saw the magnets still on the ground. Not fun.
The difference is pretty good. I can’t even feel it go into overdrive. I was driving and had to click the button on and off just to make sure it was actually working after removing so much crud, though I was lucky that when I got the truck. The motor was blown up (piston rings had melted) but the transmission fluid was bright red and not burnt. Thanks to all of y’all for this tread!!!
I just got home from where I was working on the truck and wow, I never knew it could shift so good. The truck no longer “falls” into gear. It grabs it and goes, I’d be interested in the shim idea also but the first time I put the pan on I looked over and saw the magnets still on the ground. Not fun.
The difference is pretty good. I can’t even feel it go into overdrive. I was driving and had to click the button on and off just to make sure it was actually working after removing so much crud, though I was lucky that when I got the truck. The motor was blown up (piston rings had melted) but the transmission fluid was bright red and not burnt. Thanks to all of y’all for this tread!!!
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