Next is the transmission throttle cable, often called the kick down cable. On older type transmissions it played a roll in shift timing, on the A343F shift timing is controlled by the ECU. Its purpose is to increase system pressure as more throttle/engine torque is delivered. When adjusted tighter shifts are firmer, when looser shifts are smoother.
The first step is to confirm proper throttle cable adjustment. Remove floor mats, gummy bears and any other debris from under the throttle pedal. Under the hood loosen the adjustment nuts on the throttle cable. Have a helper hold the throttle pedal to the floor, pull on the cable housing (the larger black part) hard enough to fully open the throttle plate, turn the outer nut (on the cable housing side) until it touches the bracket, then tighten the other nut (on the cable/linkage side). The goal is to have the throttle butterfly fully open when the pedal hits the stop. If adjusted too tight the cable will stretch/fail.
Now adjust the transmission cable tighter, finding where it works best for your setup and preference takes experimenting. I first had it tighter, almost pushing the boot off, worked well on the road. When in low range, on dirt, would get brief wheel spin when shifting 1st to 2nd, not the best for smooth wheeling?

Moved the adjustment several times until I found the happy spot for my setup/use.
It’s not a modified valve body or shift kit, but made a noticeable difference, especially on the trail. Feels more hooked up, solid, better climbing and compression braking over rocks, etc. The 2nd gearshift is still very firm in low range, but I run 2nd start when in low, except when on obstacles that require 1st gear, so not an issue for me. IMHO for the cost was some RTV sealer for the pan install, ATF to refill the trans and time, it’s a good improvement.
This is where the adjustment on my trans cable ended up.
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