Let me get a quote for shipping
Builds Ikarus' HDJ81 Aussie-Style Build (5 Viewers)
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Let me get a quote for shipping
- Thread starter
- #762
Mocked up the center console and shift console. I found the shift console on eBay Australia.
Looks like everything fits fine. The forward mounts line up, but the rear mounts in an auto are on the auto shift plate so I'll need to design a bracket for that.
Worked on widening the airbox inlet. Not the prettiest but it'll work.
Hate to cut up NLA parts but I took a 1/2" off the front of the shift boot metal surround and the rubber boot.
Part no. for the shift boot bolts. The Toyota bolts are NLA but Yamaha shares some part numbers and Impex pulls up all manufacturers at the same time, like Hino, Toyota, Yamaha etc. Thanks for the tip on that one @logicbyondreaso
Looking good, last thing to address is the final bolt on the left holding the OTC plate - it interferes with the shift boot surround. This was my solution, a little time with a die grinder:
Looks like everything fits fine. The forward mounts line up, but the rear mounts in an auto are on the auto shift plate so I'll need to design a bracket for that.
Worked on widening the airbox inlet. Not the prettiest but it'll work.
Hate to cut up NLA parts but I took a 1/2" off the front of the shift boot metal surround and the rubber boot.
Part no. for the shift boot bolts. The Toyota bolts are NLA but Yamaha shares some part numbers and Impex pulls up all manufacturers at the same time, like Hino, Toyota, Yamaha etc. Thanks for the tip on that one @logicbyondreaso
Looking good, last thing to address is the final bolt on the left holding the OTC plate - it interferes with the shift boot surround. This was my solution, a little time with a die grinder:
I think I've said this 14 times in this thread already, but the attention to detail here is incredible. Kind of reminds me of taking apart my broken macbook in college and being amazed that the inside was beautiful too.
I had no idea this was a thing. THANK YOU
I had no idea this was a thing. THANK YOU- Thread starter
- #764
haha thanks man, appreciate itI think I've said this 14 times in this thread already, but the attention to detail here is incredible. Kind of reminds me of taking apart my broken macbook in college and being amazed that the inside was beautiful too.
I'm sure you're familiar with the overseas parts companies at this point but for anyone else reading, here's a run down of what I've learned in my time buying parts. I'm not an expert like some people here on Mud but I have bought enough parts that some people from Toyota USA wanted to pick my brain recently on how to make their parts site better... haha it was actually an interesting conversation. long story.
Anyway -
Partsouq - Nice to have the EPC to find parts. Things get shipped surprisingly quick, often faster than US dealers. They don't have as much in stock as other companies, but if they say they have it in stock, it's actually in stock.
Amayama - Also nice to have the EPC. They seem to have a lot more random/obscure parts but their system often tells you an item can be ordered, only to be disappointed in a week when they get back to you and say it's actually not available.
Impex - No EPC so you have to know your part number. Allegedly just a couple guys working out of a garage in Japan ordering parts from Toyota. The price difference is impressive - I priced out a $400 Amayama/Partsouq order and bought it through Impex for $250 just yesterday. The con is that they're often much slower than Partsouq. Sometimes you'll be waiting around for parts for weeks
Some other Impex-like sites are MegaZip and Yoshi Parts. Unfortunately I don't think there are any magic warehouses full of exotic forgotten parts - everyone is ordering straight from Toyota so they're all pretty similar at the end of the day.
And then of course there's Dave at Japan4x4. I buy obscure stuff from him all the time. Super helpful guy. Goes above and beyond to find what you need and it's nice to be able to talk things over with a human (and native english speaker)
And this site is a nice resource: Best prices for Toyota OEM parts | Cruisin4Parts.com - https://cruisin4parts.com/
- Thread starter
- #765
Changed my oil today and it was red, you guys ever seen that before?
jk jk it's time to get this transmission out of here. Took off the PDI trans cooler and removed the lines. The cooler is riveted onto a bracket and bolted onto the intercooler so very easy to remove, now it's a manual spec intercooler.
One of my trans cooler lines was leaky so the IC is covered in a mix of atf and dirt. Need to clean it up. Lots of atf leaking underneath too, from the cooler lines back to the transfer case. That's actually what got me thinking about a manual swap in the first place. As I started chasing the leaks I started thinking how nice it would be to simplify everything
jk jk it's time to get this transmission out of here. Took off the PDI trans cooler and removed the lines. The cooler is riveted onto a bracket and bolted onto the intercooler so very easy to remove, now it's a manual spec intercooler.
One of my trans cooler lines was leaky so the IC is covered in a mix of atf and dirt. Need to clean it up. Lots of atf leaking underneath too, from the cooler lines back to the transfer case. That's actually what got me thinking about a manual swap in the first place. As I started chasing the leaks I started thinking how nice it would be to simplify everything
- Thread starter
- #766
Removed driveshafts, radiator, and fan shroud. I'm going to knock out timing belt, water pump etc. while this is all torn apart.
Removed kick down cable, oil cooler brackets and dipstick. Not much info about the dipstick in the FSM but it's very simple, unbolt it and remove the vacuum lines and it lifts right out - seals with an o ring.
I'm held up where the oil cooler lines connect to the transmission. Anyone have any tips for disconnecting these? Hard to get a wrench up there. I'd rather not cut the lines
My fender well insulation has been looking sad. Tried to lift it a little and it just started crumbling....
hopefully Japan wasn't using asbestos in 1997...
Removed kick down cable, oil cooler brackets and dipstick. Not much info about the dipstick in the FSM but it's very simple, unbolt it and remove the vacuum lines and it lifts right out - seals with an o ring.
I'm held up where the oil cooler lines connect to the transmission. Anyone have any tips for disconnecting these? Hard to get a wrench up there. I'd rather not cut the lines
My fender well insulation has been looking sad. Tried to lift it a little and it just started crumbling....
hopefully Japan wasn't using asbestos in 1997...
FMC80
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #768
Just ordered a set this morning. Gonna try that next
FMC80
SILVER Star
I often used those when I turned wrenches on fighter engines. Many tight spaces. The crows feet work, but suck to use at the same time. Good luck, I know you’ll get it.
- Thread starter
- #770
That's rad. I've been slowly adding tools to my collection every time I run into a snag. Works well if you don't have to daily the truck and it can be down long enough for a HF run or Amazon Prime. I'm getting to the point where I have a decent set of tools, though I have about 20 different brands in the tool chest
- Thread starter
- #772
Crow's foot + breaker bar did the trick on the oil cooler lines but it took some force
Removed the torque converter bolts, unplugged all connectors, removed transmission crossmember, and dropped the transmission to reach the bellhousing bolts
All the bolts were easy to reach. Even the top two weren't that bad going through the shift console in the cab, with a couple extensions.
I was following the the RM184E FSM which didn't mention dropping the swaybar but RM451U did. Had to do that at the last minute when the swaybar was holding things up. Came down without too much drama
I was able to snake the oil cooler lines out too
Removed the torque converter bolts, unplugged all connectors, removed transmission crossmember, and dropped the transmission to reach the bellhousing bolts
All the bolts were easy to reach. Even the top two weren't that bad going through the shift console in the cab, with a couple extensions.
I was following the the RM184E FSM which didn't mention dropping the swaybar but RM451U did. Had to do that at the last minute when the swaybar was holding things up. Came down without too much drama
I was able to snake the oil cooler lines out too
Did you end up selling the active vacation set up?
- Thread starter
- #774
Yeah sold it a while back!
Pretty cool concept. Would be perfect in my son's LX450. Guess i will have to fab something similar
- Thread starter
- #776
Mystery piece fell out of the auto transmission as I was moving it. Looks like a ring/spacer with a groove around it. Snapped in half - any ideas?
Removed the auto flexplate, flywheel and rear end plate. Rear main seal looks fine but I'll replace it.
Pulled the H152 out of its shipping box and got it up on a little table my boys and I made a while ago out of scrap wood for fun. Works great for this.
Drained the small amount of oil it comes with from the factory:
Pulled off the slave cylinder and clutch fork, then strapped it down to remove the bell housing.
Next up, opening the case and swapping the input shaft/bearing retainer.
Removed the auto flexplate, flywheel and rear end plate. Rear main seal looks fine but I'll replace it.
Pulled the H152 out of its shipping box and got it up on a little table my boys and I made a while ago out of scrap wood for fun. Works great for this.
Drained the small amount of oil it comes with from the factory:
Pulled off the slave cylinder and clutch fork, then strapped it down to remove the bell housing.
Next up, opening the case and swapping the input shaft/bearing retainer.
- Thread starter
- #777
Popped off the input shaft retainer bearing
There are two sensors on the transmission. The one on the side is for reverse lights but the one on the top isn't used in an 80 Series. It's for cruisers with the 1VD-FTV - it senses when the transmission is in first and reduces power accordingly - guess there's a little too much power/torque.
I talked to @bottombracket a while back and got some tips from him - first is to cap off that top sensor with one of these:
Basically followed the FSM for all this. Took of the rear transfer adapter, then removed the shifter housing and shifter, which is held on with a roll pin.
Little dead blow action and some careful prying and the case comes apart
FSM calls for putting the assembly in a vice but this worked just as well to strap it down.
Another @bottombracket tip - instead of completely dismantling everything a la FSM to remove the input shaft, you can use a wedge to pry the two shafts apart just enough to pull the input shaft
Watch out for the 12 roller bearings that pop out:
I bought a new bearing to press onto the 1HD input shaft:
1HD on the left, 1VD on the right
FSM has you try 6 snap rings to find the one with "minimal axial play." I ended up right in the middle of the range.
There are two sensors on the transmission. The one on the side is for reverse lights but the one on the top isn't used in an 80 Series. It's for cruisers with the 1VD-FTV - it senses when the transmission is in first and reduces power accordingly - guess there's a little too much power/torque.
I talked to @bottombracket a while back and got some tips from him - first is to cap off that top sensor with one of these:
Basically followed the FSM for all this. Took of the rear transfer adapter, then removed the shifter housing and shifter, which is held on with a roll pin.
Little dead blow action and some careful prying and the case comes apart
FSM calls for putting the assembly in a vice but this worked just as well to strap it down.
Another @bottombracket tip - instead of completely dismantling everything a la FSM to remove the input shaft, you can use a wedge to pry the two shafts apart just enough to pull the input shaft
Watch out for the 12 roller bearings that pop out:
I bought a new bearing to press onto the 1HD input shaft:
1HD on the left, 1VD on the right
FSM has you try 6 snap rings to find the one with "minimal axial play." I ended up right in the middle of the range.
- Thread starter
- #778
Held the roller pins in place with grease, and lubricated the synchro generously with gear oil - apparently these can get stuck easily. I read that it's listed as a step in the latest 70 Series FSM, but it's not in the 80 Series FSM.
Used the wedge and slid the new input shaft on.
Used the wedge and slid the new input shaft on.
