Ignition switch issues (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Oct 12, 2004
Threads
470
Messages
3,087
Hi everyone,
I need some help with a recent problem to crop up in my 87 FJ60. A few weeks ago I noticed that the key was hard to turn from the locked to the first position. It almost felt like it was a new key that was not cut perfectly correct. Once the key passed the first position it was fine and the truck started fine and the key returned to the running position perfectly.
Today I had the same issue but I was almost not able to get the key out because the key would not go from the first position to the locked position and allow me to remove the key. I felt as if I might actually snap the key. After playing with it for a bit I was able to get it to return and remove the key.
This is an issue with all the keys (known good keys) so I have ruled out a key issue. Any idea as to what could be going in? The problem seemingly came out of nowhere.
Is a new ignition switch needed? Is it still available? Is it easy to rekey a new switch?
Would some type of lock live help?

Thanks,
Zack
 
I was having a similar problem on my '87 and I got a brand new Toyota key made from the code and it's been great ever since.
 
You might try a bit of graphite & penetrating oil commonly used to prevent exterior door lock cylinders from freezong.
 
As the decades go by with a collection of keys on your key fob dangling from the ignition key cylinder, the ignition key and the lock cylinder slowly wear out.

They grind against each other while the car is rolling due to the fob moving around with vibration, and every time you insert and remove the key.

After 20 years or so, both the key and cylinder can be worn to the point that a fresh vigin cut key won't work any more, or any key you insert can just be pulled out (or fall out) while the engine is still running.

A new aftermarket ignition cylinder can be purchased at RockAuto for pretty cheap. I just replaced mine with it. It looks identical, fits exactly, and works great.

You will have another key though that only works for the ignition.
But I think that will be so if you buy the genuine Toyota lock too.
 
I was thinking about using some type of lube, but it so hard to turn at times I'm thinking its mechanical of some sort.
As far as keys go, I have a bunch of keys for my 60 all in great shape abs it does it with all the keys. So I'm thinking the keys might not be the issue.
 
If I was to simply buy a new ignition switch, I could just have a locksmith rekey it, correct?
 
Yeah, prolly key cylinder. Small PITA to have two keys but unless you can get a matched set or have a locksmith do it, it's the only way. I have three keys as I have a different one for the rear hatch, too.

Very easy to replace.
 
The switch (electrical part) is different from the cylinder(key part). It sounds like the cylinder is worn. The switch is probably OK.

I have had my cylinders re-keyed by a locksmith. You just have to take the cylinders out.
 
The ignition cylinder is now discontinued from Toyota for 10/1982-EOP.

Early ignition cylinder is available (1981-1982 iterations). Whether the early one would work on the later trucks, I don't know since I haven't tried it. I do know the earlier ignition SWITCHES do work on the later trucks and they are a direct fit.

HTH.
-o-
 
Ok I lied....the lock is difficult from accessory to on. I originally said it was from lock to first position. I guess that rules out key issues.
I called a local locksmith and he said it is not a problem to rekey a new ignition lock. He also claims to have very good luck rebuilding the locks. The rebuild is a full disassembly with cleaning and lube with replacement pins as needed for $35.00.
What is the quality of the aftermarket locks?
 
For $35 that's a no brainer.


Yup, I agree.
So that begs the next obvious question, how do you remove the lock? I assume the plastic around the column needs to come off, and from there?
 
first you remove the plastic cowl around the steering column to expose the lock cylinder. Put the key in the cylinder and turn the key to ACC. Then, with a stiff wire, push the pin in to release the cylinder.
 
While your at it you may want to have all lock cylinders refurbished. I had my full set done for under $100.

Sent from my SM-G920V
 
first you remove the plastic cowl around the steering column to expose the lock cylinder. Put the key in the cylinder and turn the key to ACC. Then, with a stiff wire, push the pin in to release the cylinder.

Do you *have* to put the key in to remove it? Or does it just provide easy leverage
 
Yes - you have to put the key in, to prevent easy removal of the lock cyl by non-key-holders (thieves).
 
you need to put the key in the cylinder and turn the key to the ACC position. Then push the button with a stiff wire.
 
Ok so now I am totally confused....
I followed the above directions and I was able to pull the lock cyl without much difficulty, and to my surprise the lock cyl feels perfect out of the truck. It turns easily with all the keys I have for my truck, and there is NO resistance at all. I even tried a different Toyota key (not for the LC), and just like it is supposed to do, it didn't turn.
So what is left? I think the resistance is deeper, is the ignition switch what I am turning with the screwdriver in the picture (which of course starts the truck)? I assume that is where the problem is. This morning I almost cold not start the truck, because the key would not go past the acc position. After a few attempts it did finally turn. The remainder of the day today it was fine. It was almost as if it was frozen. How hard is the switch to change? Does a new switch include the metal square that the lock cyl engages?
lc lock 1.jpg
lc lock 2.jpg
lc lock 3.jpg
lc lock 4.jpg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom