Ignition switch cam replacement (1 Viewer)

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So where's the best place to pick up a new Cam? Ebay?
I thought I heard on a Vid, that there is an updated one that's reinforced, or thicker at the common break point...
but all the ebay ones I saw looked the same.

Also, is there any difference in Cams from early model to the later ones? Mine is an '04, and thinking of changing it as preventative maint...
At this point, I would say for me it's the ebay option. Once you learn how to do it, it's not that difficult and we'll see how long it lasts. The cost of any others is so much higher that I can't justify the price increase.

There are different part numbers so be sure to verify what you have. I waited until I my broken oem cam out to find the part # and order it.

Feel free to message me if you have any problems!
 
So, good news the 100 is parked in my driveway. Bad news, I get the ignition to spin freely issue. Sounds like a broken cam. Am I able to just replace the cam and preserve my key and ignition or should I replace all? And that leads to a question of if I replace the entire assembly, how do I match the new key to the doors and glovebox? Thanks for the help in advance. BTW, this broke at ~ 240k miles. After thinking about it, I would often get the wheel lock when turning the key and wonder if this contributed to the fatigue of the cam.
 
So, good news the 100 is parked in my driveway. Bad news, I get the ignition to spin freely issue. Sounds like a broken cam. Am I able to just replace the cam and preserve my key and ignition or should I replace all? And that leads to a question of if I replace the entire assembly, how do I match the new key to the doors and glovebox? Thanks for the help in advance. BTW, this broke at ~ 240k miles. After thinking about it, I would often get the wheel lock when turning the key and wonder if this contributed to the fatigue of the cam.
Longshot and a bit OT but I thought I'd ask. Can anyone identify the "key sense" wire coming out of the ignition assembly?
 
So, good news the 100 is parked in my driveway. Bad news, I get the ignition to spin freely issue. Sounds like a broken cam. Am I able to just replace the cam and preserve my key and ignition or should I replace all? And that leads to a question of if I replace the entire assembly, how do I match the new key to the doors and glovebox? Thanks for the help in advance. BTW, this broke at ~ 240k miles. After thinking about it, I would often get the wheel lock when turning the key and wonder if this contributed to the fatigue of the cam.
They cam is behind the key assembly.

I replaced the whole module. It's kind of a pain, but I replaced the security bolts with Allen head metric Bolts and all worked out well. Drilling out/removing the security Bolts is kind of a PITA...but cheaper than the dealer...

Good luck!
 
I just ordered the part from local dealer $290. At least it isn't coming from Japan with a 9 month lead time.
 
Longshot and a bit OT but I thought I'd ask. Can anyone identify the "key sense" wire coming out of the ignition assembly?
I'm not 100%, but I believe the "key sense" system, (if you're referring to what recognizes your correct key with the chip), might be in the light up ring that you take off early in the removal process. It should have 1 plug and the green light bulb that plug into it.

Again, I'm not 100% but my rig wouldn't crank without that plugged in, it would only turn over. And I don't know what else that ring would need a plug for.
 
They cam is behind the key assembly.

I replaced the whole module. It's kind of a pain, but I replaced the security bolts with Allen head metric Bolts and all worked out well. Drilling out/removing the security Bolts is kind of a PITA...but cheaper than the dealer...

Good luck!
Do you happen to know what size metric bolts? thread and length? Thanks!
 
I bought the whole OEM assembly and just replaced the cam. There was no way in hell that I was going to take a chance on a non-OEM ebay part that is no better than the original (and likely not as good). The new OEM cam is definitely beefier around the area where they tend to break. I believe that replacing the old with a new OEM is a set it and forget it deal. I hope so at least. Sure is pricey.
 
I just finished replacing mine and used the ebay part and it was an exact match. Considering now I know what to do, it was only $65 and took me under 30minutes, I feel comfortable if it lasts another 22years.
 
I just finished replacing mine and used the ebay part and it was an exact match. Considering now I know what to do, it was only $65 and took me under 30minutes, I feel comfortable if it lasts another 22years.
I wanted to thank the community once again, if it wasn't for this wealth of info I would have given up and left it to the dealer to overcharge me. Hopefully this extra info will help the next person:

-It is very easy and quick to unscrew the 2 Phillips screws on the back end of the ignition module. The white plastic starter switch comes off and you can twist the broken end of the barrel rod out from the back (note: it doesn't remove from the back, you still have to push it out the front but have better access from the back). This also makes it easier to insert the new part and confirm it is in the right location.
-Another piece that was helpful is knowing that the following part number on bay was "7850 B" and the part that came out of my 2000 LC was labeled "7850 A". These ended up being identical parts.
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-Lastly, when removing this brass blade, be very careful of the small spring as shown in the photo.
 
Does anyone know what the electric module (solenoid?) is that is mounted/screwed onto the right side of the ignition casting? This electrical module has a small pin plunger that is controlled by the module. If this small pin-plunger is pushed downward by the module, it will, in turn, push down onto another small spring-loaded pin plunger which is mounted in the casting directly under this electrical module--- pushing this second pin into the cavity of the casting where it will contact the OEM switch cam rod.

I am not sure what the purpose of the pin plungers/electrical module-- and if it is required to initiate some action such as the auto retraction/tilt-up function. I have this function turned off using TS so I do not care if it works- but a future owner may want it to work.

I just machined up a 6061 replacement ignition switch rod that has a larger diameter than the .500" replacement rod that Scottm machined up and presented on another thread. If the casting pin plunger is pushed into the cavity of the casting, it will never make contact with a .500" diameter rod. The little pin is not long enough. With my larger diameter rod, it will because I made mine the same diameter as the OEM rod in that area.

I like my rod because the larger diameter completely retracts the steering wheel lock pin and it also centers itself better within the casting.

Since I do not know what the pins and electrical module do, I have no idea if I should modify the design of my replacement rod.
 
So, good news the 100 is parked in my driveway. Bad news, I get the ignition to spin freely issue. Sounds like a broken cam. Am I able to just replace the cam and preserve my key and ignition or should I replace all? And that leads to a question of if I replace the entire assembly, how do I match the new key to the doors and glovebox? Thanks for the help in advance. BTW, this broke at ~ 240k miles. After thinking about it, I would often get the wheel lock when turning the key and wonder if this contributed to the fatigue of the cam.
Mine (2003) just broke at 242k miles. I have taken it apart and am down to getting the broken part out. Bell Lexus online has the steering bracket assembley for $344. That's the best price that I can get other than EBay which would come from Japan and take weeks if not months to get here. My barrel rod is 2061A. Seems impossible to find.
 

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