Ignition switch cam replacement (1 Viewer)

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How do you depress the flange on the right side of the assembly when the cam is not broken and won't come out?

I was finally able to fish out the broken oem cam piece and after another 30 minutes of fidgeting with the new cam it all seemed to go back together appropriately. But the ignition switch still wouldn't work. It seems like the new cam has come out a little and is no longer seated as deep as it needs to be. But now the "lock flange" has captured the new cam and I can't get it back down in the assembly nor out the front. Help!


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Mine broke on me tonight while attempting to go have a beer at the brewery; the tragedy! Where were you able to source the part from? Seems like a specialty part that is difficult to find, perhaps with questionable castings. Do you think it is/was dimensionally correct?

I hope you are able to get it out and get back on the road! Please keep us appraised.
 
Mine broke on me tonight while attempting to go have a beer at the brewery; the tragedy! Where were you able to source the part from? Seems like a specialty part that is difficult to find, perhaps with questionable castings. Do you think it is/was dimensionally correct?

I hope you are able to get it out and get back on the road! Please keep us appraised.
I hate to hear that! I found mine off ebay. I was aware of possible casting questions, but I could only find oem in the whole assembly. And it seems fairly identical if not a smoother casting.

I was able to finally get the cam back into position, somehow. But now it won't crank when I get to the "on" position. 🤷🏼‍♂️ I took the switch off the back and it cranks over normally with a screwdriver. I even felt the bottom of the cam as I turned the key and it does move so I know it's not broken again. I'm at a loss. 😞
 
Sound like your cam is 180 deg off.
But it can only go into the housing 1 way, correct? I had the little tab on the bottom pointed towards the left, inserted the cam, and rotated clockwise 90⁰ until the brass tab is at the 4 o'clock position.

How do I "release" an unbroken cam so that I can pull it out and verify its position?
 
But it can only go into the housing 1 way, correct? I had the little tab on the bottom pointed towards the left, inserted the cam, and rotated clockwise 90⁰ until the brass tab is at the 4 o'clock position.
I did this a few years ago so I don't remember all the details. My friend had the same problem like you. He took the cam out, flipped it 180 deg, and he was able to start the ignition after that. He used OEM parts though. If you think you installed it correctly, then it could be the cam itself.

How do I "release" an unbroken cam so that I can pull it out and verify its position?
Did you loose the 2 bolts on the plastic cap?

I remember your questions were asked in this thread. You should be able to find your answers there.
 
If he has the part, Im in. Knowing my luck they probably wont have it locally...or have it priced exorbitantly. I guess if any region should have one, the Denver metro area should....the 100 series are very popular on the front range. Crossing my fingers and clenching my cheeks.
 
If he has the part, Im in. Knowing my luck they probably wont have it locally...or have it priced exorbitantly. I guess if any region should have one, the Denver metro area should....the 100 series are very popular on the front range. Crossing my fingers and clenching my cheeks.

Send me a PM =)
 
I did this a few years ago so I don't remember all the details. My friend had the same problem like you. He took the cam out, flipped it 180 deg, and he was able to start the ignition after that. He used OEM parts though. If you think you installed it correctly, then it could be the cam itself.


Did you loose the 2 bolts on the plastic cap?

I remember your questions were asked in this thread. You should be able to find your answers there.
I read through the thread and I haven't found anything in regards to removing a whole cam, only broken ones.
 
I think you are supposed to partially release the white connector from the back and depress the release switch on the bottom of the assembly (as in video with screwdriver or punch and it should release (as you) rotate out, as it was described in the video. If the cam lobes are/were inappropriately sized then, it may be more difficult due to tolerances.
 
I think you are supposed to partially release the white connector from the back and depress the release switch on the bottom of the assembly (as in video with screwdriver or punch and it should release (as you) rotate out, as it was described in the video. If the cam lobes are/were inappropriately sized then, it may be more difficult due to tolerances.
Yeah, I'm not referring to the key switch. That comes out easily. I was referring to the cam piece behind the key switch. The piece that is known for breaking. But I can't find any information on how to remove an unbroken one.
 
Umm...ok? If I did miss it, do you have any help in the matter or just smarta$$, pointless replies?
I was telling you the info is in there. I should have told you to read again but I didn't. You will find your answer multiple times if you indeed read through the thread.

I am sorry that I don't have time to read the entire thread for you then spoon feed you. Since you asked for help again, my recommendation to you is "Read again!"

My help ends with this post :cheers:.
 
I was telling you the info is in there. I should have told you to read again but I didn't. You will find your answer multiple times if you indeed read through the thread.

I am sorry that I don't have time to read the entire thread for you then spoon feed you. Since you asked for help again, my recommendation to you is "Read again!"

My help ends with this post :cheers:.
What help? 😆 Some people just want to be salty because it makes them feel better than others, I get it. Thanks for...whatever?
 
Update just for anyone having the same issues in the future:
#1 Pushing the brass tab in and out with a pair of pliers while rotating the whole, unbroken cam counter clockwise will work the cam past the steering lock and free it.

#2 If you didn't purchase an OEM cam with the whole assembly, take the ignition switch completely off the back of your existing assembly and test fit the end of the cam into the switch. (The screws are not as difficult to re-insert as YouTube and the forum would suggest.) I finally determined that my cam was not properly seating down into the switch because it was just slightly too big. That's why I would feel it turn through "ACC" and "On" positions properly, but the positive resistance of the ignition position was just enough force to bump the cam spade out of the slot. I used a dremel to grind the spade end down until it fit snugly into the ignition switch. Hope this helps someone.

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So where's the best place to pick up a new Cam? Ebay?
I thought I heard on a Vid, that there is an updated one that's reinforced, or thicker at the common break point...
but all the ebay ones I saw looked the same.

Also, is there any difference in Cams from early model to the later ones? Mine is an '04, and thinking of changing it as preventative maint...
 

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