Igniter question (1 Viewer)

[86aggie]

Mechanic has identified Igniter as the culprit of not starting.

Are there two parts inside that housing, or is it all one part? Alternatives if its not available?

 

[diesellibrarian]

The igniter can be separated from the coil, but you need both.

The igniter is not a serviceable part and must be replaced if it has failed. I don't think it's available from Toyota, so probably a good used one is your best bet. I think I've read about people adapting a GM igniter, but haven't dug into it - just filed away for future reference in case I ever need it.

Do you know how the mechanic settled on the igniter as the cause? I don't think they're very failure-prone, though of course nothing lasts forever. It's just that the igniter is the thing you replace after eliminating ALL other causes.

 

[diesellibrarian]

One thing to double-check is that the coil/igniter assembly mounting bolts are clean, as I believe the igniter grounds though the mounting bracket. I added a supplementary body ground to mine, just in case.

 

[OSS]

If the culprit is indeed the igniter, there is an alternative. The Toyota igniter is no longer available.

Igniter Repair for Cheapskates

A couple weeks ago, my igniter died. One moment, the truck is idling in my driveway, and the next moment...eh...not so much. :censor: Not willing to spend a few hundred bucks on NOS (if I can find it), and not thrilled with the idea of spending $100+ on a used igniter, I hunted around the...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[4runner2FJ60]

@ToyotaMatt might chime in?

 

[86aggie]

The mechanic ohmed it out to confirm it’s the culprit. I’ve found an OEM at Amayama in Japan for $270 or an aftermarket version at NAPA for $470…waiting for confirmation from Japan that they actually have it in stock. I’ve had them claim they have a part until I actually place an order and then they say oops…

 

[Mark W]

Ignitor off a 22RE will work if you swap the plug ends. These should still be easy to find out there used.


Mark...

 

[AnkurGT]

I have a similar issue. I am resurrecting my 83 wagon after about 5 years of neglect.

I have a bad igniter also, based on ohms on the ol multimeter, and I’m trying to determine if I do the cheapskate GM solution which hasn’t worked for me so far, or if I just bite the bullet and drop in an MSD box/aftermarket coil, and Pertronix electronic ignition upgrade kit to change over the whole ignition system to something less of a PITA to service in the future. These old parts aren’t getting any easier to find, after all.

So, if I do that, I bypass the OEM igniter, coil, and points based dizzy, correct? I am not an ignition expert and this is the first time I’m messing with this systems. I’ve replaced components with OEM parts, but never done a modernization project like this.

Please help me think it through before I spend $$$.

Thank you!

 

[86aggie]

An aftermarket igniter was available a few months ago from rock auto. It was about $350. That’s what we did.

 

[midknightc3]

When my igniter failed I initially did the GM option, but had issues with that. To be clear, the issues were my own doing, but I ultimately opted for a Toyota Mini Truck igniter/coil from the stealership here in town. That was a number of years ago and I haven't looked back since as it's all OEM Toyota. Not gonna lie though, it was a lot more expensive ($350) than the GM option ($50 at the time). I later put an HEI unit in my truck when I installed my Sniper as the OEM dizzy wasn't recurved for a de-smogged truck. That GM unit in the HEI left me stranded in a rain storm after only a year, and that time it wasn't the fault of my wiring. Got off my butt and did the home recurve with a vac pot from @4Cruisers and the truck runs great. OEM Toyota is more expensive, but if you drive your truck much it's also a whole lot more reliable.

Clark

 

[JAX 1988 FJ62]

I have a OEM one off of a 1988 FJ62 that I did a motor swap on. Let me k if if you’re interested.