IFS travel gain

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I'd like to get 1-2" more down travel and add 2 degrees of caster. I plan to keep the ride height the same. I am only interested in the UCA w/ balljoint... nothing more at this time.

My seriousness depends on the cost. Anybody else interested?
 
hoser said:
I'd like to get 1-2" more down travel and add 2 degrees of caster. I plan to keep the ride height the same. I am only interested in the UCA w/ balljoint... nothing more at this time.

My seriousness depends on the cost. Anybody else interested?


If there is enough interest I can get a quote from a local fabricator who builds custom desert racing stuff. I think he would be interested, but I can't say for sure until I talk to him.
 
Hoser and calamari: I am interested in the same goal...getting 2" more down travel and more caster. And like everything else cost is going to weigh into the reality of getting it;) And, having said that, whatever the parts/pieces/kit entails it needs to be sound design and construction.

As far as interest/cost equation...its the same as everything else: There will be more interest if it is less costly. Personally, for how I use my rig, I couldn't justify say $5K...but maybe half or less than that would be seriously considered poir moi.
 
I'm guessing it would run about $1000 for custom UCA's with Uni Ball.

I don't know that you could restore that much downtravel by just changing the UCA's.

Next time I have a day off, I'll go down and ask the guy what he thinks.
 
I would like to know as well please keep us posted if it is $1000 I would be interested but $2000 is to much for me to spend on 2"...
 
subspd said:
I would like to know as well please keep us posted if it is $1000 I would be interested but $2000 is to much for me to spend on 2"...

















That's what she said :grinpimp:
 
subspd said:
I would like to know as well please keep us posted if it is $1000 I would be interested but $2000 is to much for me to spend on 2"...

I am not a suspension designer, and I don't even know if we can expect much benefit from new UCA design with Uni Ball without relocating the shock too.

These questions will be answered by someone much smarter about this stuff than me. If either of our resident experts want to chime in regarding the potential usefullness of this idea that would be fine.

Otherwise, I'll talk to the local fabricator who builds Toyota desert racing trucks and see what he thinks and find out if he is interested in doing this.
 
calamaridog said:
I am not a suspension designer, and I don't even know if we can expect much benefit from new UCA design with Uni Ball without relocating the shock too.

These questions will be answered by someone much smarter about this stuff than me. If either of our resident experts want to chime in regarding the potential usefullness of this idea that would be fine.

Otherwise, I'll talk to the local fabricator who builds Toyota desert racing trucks and see what he thinks and find out if he is interested in doing this.



C-dog: I appreciate the time you are putting in to this!

Dan
 
Guys,

I’ve been watching this very interesting thread for a while now and I thought I’ll add in the little I know. I’ve been contemplating the issue since I bought my UZJ new back in 99 and I can’t get around the knuckle issue. To my opinion in order to do any worthwhile mod to the front suspension, you need a new steering knuckle that relocates the tie rods attachment point and puts it higher.

You could almost think that you could flip the way the rod ball joint attaches to the knuckle (bolt it from the top instead from the bottom – effectively raising the attachment point) but this is not really practical and I refuse to weaken steering components.

If I could get around this, I would have done the mode long time ago…

Any suggestions???

Doron.
 
Last edited:
cruiser99 said:
To my opinion in order to do any worthwhile mod to the front suspension, you need a new steering knuckle that relocates the tie rods attachment point and puts it higher.


Doron,

I suggest a new custom spindle.

Oh wait, this is getting expensive:doh:
 
guys

i've talked to a rally mechanical expert .. how can do any thing you want .. even a 10 inch front travel ..

but nothing is cheap .. the custom upper mount that i want with custom Uniball UCA .. they will cost me around 2200$ USD ..

since i know the price of what i want .. my mined never stop thinking .. is that worth it .. 1.0-1.5inch travel gaining ?? .. and the front suspension is already hight adjustable .. and in rear .. you can buy stiffer spring with the OEM ride hight or 2inch down from Zeal ..

and before 1 week .. i find that in the OME LTR you can adjust the valving range from 40-100 psi .. to suit your need ..


all that keep me serisoly thinking .. the best way to my goal ..

In the end i cmopletely throw with the coilover conversion .. and ordered Rockcrawler T-Barz (34mm) ..
 
wngrog said:
I lost you here. What did you do?

RockCrawler T-Bar

torsion%20bars%2026mm%20416.jpg


34mm Thick

www.4wd1.com

yes .. and no matter a modified 100 .. there always will be the 120 (Prado 2dr) .. betting her ..
 
EL_3grab said:
RockCrawler T-Bar

torsion%20bars%2026mm%20416.jpg


34mm Thick

www.4wd1.com

yes .. and no matter a modified 100 .. there always will be the 120 (Prado 2dr) .. betting her ..

34mm? WOW....if you lift the front, those bars will hinder and fight your every up-travel move. You performance off-road will suffer. On a ARB front bumper they should work OK IF you keep the stock ride height. If you lift it, the wheel will not stuff except in a extreme situation.
 
Look, coilover front suspension and longer travel rear shocks from Keepslant.

yuroshok5.jpg

yuroshok6.jpg

yuroshok3.jpg
 
Is this coilover setup in addition to the standard T bars, for heavier loads on the front, or a complete replacement for the T bars. The coilover doesn't look strong enough to handle the whole front end as a replacement for the T bars, and if it is a complete replacement for the Tbars, I would have expected to see some reinforcing to the shock mounts and lower control arm. Any more info?
 
100 has same part No chassis and A arms as AHC lexus, so strong enough to support vehicle weight.

A diff drop from christo with those coil overs would work better.

As for comparing an OME LTR to a King or Fox bypass adjustable shock, and changing the pressure to change valving, there is no comparison, and the LTR is just a generic shock with a cannister welded on, nothing flash.
 

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