ifs hubs on solid axle? (2 Viewers)

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Here's the "How to" Just completed my SAS and used this to assist. I now have about 150-200 miles on this setup and it works very well.

Not the best writeup but here's my build Thread using RUF and Ford springs in the rear.
 
ok, I keep reading where if you use Tacoma rotors, it makes changing the Birf a snap...

There is a good deal here locally on 2 Taco drilled rotors for $85 That's $42 A PIECE! I think well worth it considering I can get el cheapo china solid Fj60 rotors for about $10 less...

What years will work? These say they are 95-98... And can somebody tell me just how easy changing a Birf is? Vs. The non floating rotors?


PS... Anybody know if an FzJ80 rear rotor will fit over any hub? They have a REALLY REALLY deep hat...

40551217x2nD8606OSM.jpg
 
ok, I keep reading where if you use Tacoma rotors, it makes changing the Birf a snap...

Somebody needs to explain this. I've seen references to this concept too, and I call BS. The flavor of rotor is not going to make a rats-fanny difference in how a birfield is changed.
 
the only plus i could see, and i am not sure you could, but by having a slip off rotor you could possibly pull the hub and spindle off with out taking them apart.
 
That's what I'm thinking, but wouldn't that involve removing the steering arms to get to the Trunnion bearings?

And another plus would be assuming machining the rotors would be inexpensive, a lot of times I'd rather opt for buying new rotors and being able to install them myself, than have them turned in the event I warp them or they get too thin to turn...


All I see is labor costs when I hear of those two things. With floating rotors I can do all the labor needed, and they're cheap enough...
 
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what i was thinking is you would be able to get to the spindle bolts with out having to remove the hub.
one of these days i will learn how to put down in writing what i am thinking.
 
the only plus i could see, and i am not sure you could, but by having a slip off rotor you could possibly pull the hub and spindle off with out taking them apart.

For a birfield repair in the field ... remove the wiper retainers on the back of the knuckle (8 bolts) ... remove the steering arm nuts/washers/cone washers (4 each), and the steering arm ... loosen the lower cap nuts, but don't remove ... pull off knuckle assembly. You don't need to tear the whole knuckle down to get to the birfield.

That said, the ability to remove the spindle/hub assembly to get to the birfield does sound like a good idea.

And BTW, if you all are not using studs on the spindle I highly recommend it. Buy one kit, use 4 per side instead of 8, and share the others with a buddy. Those studs really make assembly easy, but you don't need all 8 per side to acomplish the needed effect.spindle/hub assembly to get to the birfield does sound like a good idea.
 
I'm kinda there with ya...

But moreover, I don't want the width... If I wanted a wider wheel track, I'd wheel a Chevy...

They say either side of the ear or caliper bosses doesn't matter, but I kinda call BS...

One, you have to tap the ears or caliper to accept a bolt, IF you don't use a nut and bolt. But then if you do that you can't easily get the caliper off... Why?

And two, as you brake the caliper gets pulled into the caliper bosses, and to me there's clutching forces between the caliper and bosses there... Now, since the caliper is on the outside, it would want to pull away... And I don't see any clutching forces...

So now your braking force is riding on bolt threads, and it's wanting to pull them out as you brake...

But I'm also no expert so don't ask me to prove my theory...


To me, let one caliper bolt accidentally fall out. Apply that for both caliper positions...

To me, you can stop or will be able to stop until you find the problem with the caliper-inside.

Now apply that to the caliper-outside position and to me, it would almost instantly break the bolt off and you're now in a catastrophic failure.
 
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also to add to that, WV safety inspection stations might not like it, and if they did not one would have to buy new knuckles to reverse that mod.
 
For a birfield repair in the field ... remove the wiper retainers on the back of the knuckle (8 bolts) ... remove the steering arm nuts/washers/cone washers (4 each), and the steering arm ... loosen the lower cap nuts, but don't remove ... pull off knuckle assembly. You don't need to tear the whole knuckle down to get to the birfield.


Thanks in more ways than one, Pappy... I'm gonna help a guy re-wiper his Bj60 and this info rocks!

And based on it, I think I'm just gonna do the Fj60 rotors...


That said, the ability to remove the spindle/hub assembly to get to the birfield does sound like a good idea.

I know... :frown:

And BTW, if you all are not using studs on the spindle I highly recommend it. Buy one kit, use 4 per side instead of 8, and share the others with a buddy. Those studs really make assembly easy, but you don't need all 8 per side to acomplish the needed effect.spindle/hub assembly to get to the birfield does sound like a good idea.


Linky?
 
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also the reason i was looking into this mod is to run the ifs wheels on my truck. and i think a spacer will take care of that on the front, i have an 86 rear, that i am going to redo.
 
And BTW, if you all are not using studs on the spindle I highly recommend it. Buy one kit, use 4 per side instead of 8, and share the others with a buddy. Those studs really make assembly easy, but you don't need all 8 per side to acomplish the needed effect.spindle/hub assembly to get to the birfield does sound like a good idea.


Spindle Stud Kit
spindlekit-600.jpg
 
I was thinking they were for something else... But the steering arms are easy enough to remove, correct?
 
Remove outer locking hub face, remove snap ring from axle end, remove wipers, remove brake caliper, loosen top and bottom knuckle arm nuts, remove upper nuts and conewashers, and loosen bottom nuts as far as you can, remove spindle and knuckle from axle end, remove birf. It should only take 20 minutes to get a birf out if you know what you're doing.
 
Remove outer locking hub face, remove snap ring from axle end, remove wipers, remove brake caliper, loosen top and bottom knuckle arm nuts, remove upper nuts and conewashers, and loosen bottom nuts as far as you can, remove spindle and knuckle from axle end, remove birf. It should only take 20 minutes to get a birf out if you know what you're doing.


verses pull wheel pull caliper and hang take eight bolts out, pull hub-spindle assembly, pull birfeild, and wow even written it is shorter. oh and yes you will have to pull the hub face and lock ring.
 

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