- Thread starter
- #21
Im hoping the 40s help that a little. Plus the center of gravity being so much lower has to help with stability. Ive never had anything sprung under before so i figured id give it a shot.
Build Flooded 1981 Toyota Pickup Revival & Sprung Under FJ80 Axle / Dolphin RV Dually Axle Swap Build Bonanza on 4Ds
- Thread starter Lucille
- Start date
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Awesome score on all the Toyotas! Especially
The 81 pickup! I have a white patina’d 83’ I scored and am in the process of building. Love the look of the 1st gen 4x4’s.
You’ve got a a good relationship with the Toyota Gods, finding so many classics and parts rigs. My friends will remark to me sometimes” where do you find all these great scores” The Yota force is strong with this one!
Thanks for posting this thread, keep the pics coming, we appreciate it, very inspiring! I need to start a thread on my “Clementine” or
“Climbingtime” build.
Mine is on the right, I’m working on the other for a friend, got rid of the old 3” lift pucks, had to cut em out also!
The 81 pickup! I have a white patina’d 83’ I scored and am in the process of building. Love the look of the 1st gen 4x4’s.
You’ve got a a good relationship with the Toyota Gods, finding so many classics and parts rigs. My friends will remark to me sometimes” where do you find all these great scores” The Yota force is strong with this one!
Thanks for posting this thread, keep the pics coming, we appreciate it, very inspiring! I need to start a thread on my “Clementine” or
“Climbingtime” build.
Mine is on the right, I’m working on the other for a friend, got rid of the old 3” lift pucks, had to cut em out also!
- Thread starter
- #23
Hell yeah man. Thats a good looking truck.
- Thread starter
- #24
Time to break some toyota axle parts with these 40s.
- Thread starter
- #25
I was able to work on the truck some the last couple of days. Front suspension is tacked in position and boy is it going to be low. Im going to have to cut a lot of cab and get creative with my bump stops. Im also thinking about swapping to a front swing shackle to keep the tire out of the firewall but we shall see.
I really wish it would stay this way. I love the fenders. This is with the full weight of the truck on the suspension. As you can see, the shackle angle is terrible, but these are new springs and the winch bumper isnt on yet. I plan on pulling a leaf or two to see if that helps, but otherwise i will have to fix it. I plan on moving the axle forward an inch on the perches as well.
Ill post some more pics later. The slee high steer arm and the RHD arm on the drivers side all seem to work well. The tie-rod will be above the leafs without any clearance issues. Solid axle minitruck locking hubs mocked up as well
I really wish it would stay this way. I love the fenders. This is with the full weight of the truck on the suspension. As you can see, the shackle angle is terrible, but these are new springs and the winch bumper isnt on yet. I plan on pulling a leaf or two to see if that helps, but otherwise i will have to fix it. I plan on moving the axle forward an inch on the perches as well.
Ill post some more pics later. The slee high steer arm and the RHD arm on the drivers side all seem to work well. The tie-rod will be above the leafs without any clearance issues. Solid axle minitruck locking hubs mocked up as well
- Thread starter
- #28
Went spring under to get it super low with a good amount of flex, and as mentioned, more stable. This isn’t a stock type of truck anymore.Can I ask why spring under. Truck was designed Spring over! I bougt 1 in 1980 brand new they were all spring over until 86 went independent front suspension..
- Thread starter
- #29
I would need longer springs in order for that to work. These 5” front marlin springs are too short for that. I’m currently mocking up a forward shackle to see if I like that better.
whats the reason for the 40s?
and that treker needs some tall/skinnies!
and that treker needs some tall/skinnies!
- Thread starter
- #31
Because 40s are definitely better than 37s.
It’s getting some 33x12.5x15s. Going old school on this one.
- Thread starter
- #32
2nd attempt at doing some Jeep s*** on the truck. This revision is a much cleaner upper mount for the shackle and takes up less space. The first revision was too relaxed of a shackle angle. This one is perfect imo. Once the springs settle and i put on a bumper and winch, it should be around 45 degrees. Caster is around 3 degrees.
Shackles will have a tube welded in though the large holes.
First attempt:
Axle is moved forward a couple inches with the forward spring.
Next up will be steering and mounting the IFS box. I ordered some 3/4" heims and tierod material yesterday.
You can see the Slee arm thats tied into the factory steering arm. Plan is to drill out the arm to 5/8" and then weld on a tab for the drivers knuckle to keep the tie-rod in double sheer. Everything fits above the leafs.
Shackles will have a tube welded in though the large holes.
First attempt:
Axle is moved forward a couple inches with the forward spring.
Next up will be steering and mounting the IFS box. I ordered some 3/4" heims and tierod material yesterday.
You can see the Slee arm thats tied into the factory steering arm. Plan is to drill out the arm to 5/8" and then weld on a tab for the drivers knuckle to keep the tie-rod in double sheer. Everything fits above the leafs.
- Thread starter
- #34
Yessir. I cut the holes in tue shackles for some scrap 1.25” tube I have laying around.
- Thread starter
- #36
They arent revolver shackles. Im not about that life. They are just your standard shackle just up front. No double jointed BS going on here.
A lot of good ideas here.
- Thread starter
- #38
Busy last week or so. Been chipping away at s*** on the truck and doing some much needed spring cleaning in the shop.
Pulled the tacoma in the shop to pull the 3rz for the Trekker. Sent the harness off for stand alone.
Engine and w59 out on the floor. The w59 will be used in the 81 with the duals.
Next up pushed the rusted out 85 4runner into the shop to pull some parts for the Trekker and for the 81. W56, 22re header/exhaust, wheels, etc.
Extra 12Hp for the 22re with this bad boy. Not sure the brand. Maybe an old Doug Thorley?
W59 left vs the w56 right from the 4runner. Do a bellhousing swap and using them in the 81 and the trekker. should work out great.
Pulled the greasy manual steering box from the 81 to make room for the IFS box. That sucked.
Whipped up a new tierod from some 1.5" 1/4 wall DOM and 3/4" heims. Going to work on mounting the IFS box today and see what the drag link is going to look like.
Thats all for now. Headed back offshore later this week and progress will slow until end of March.
Pulled the tacoma in the shop to pull the 3rz for the Trekker. Sent the harness off for stand alone.
Engine and w59 out on the floor. The w59 will be used in the 81 with the duals.
Next up pushed the rusted out 85 4runner into the shop to pull some parts for the Trekker and for the 81. W56, 22re header/exhaust, wheels, etc.
Extra 12Hp for the 22re with this bad boy. Not sure the brand. Maybe an old Doug Thorley?
W59 left vs the w56 right from the 4runner. Do a bellhousing swap and using them in the 81 and the trekker. should work out great.
Pulled the greasy manual steering box from the 81 to make room for the IFS box. That sucked.
Whipped up a new tierod from some 1.5" 1/4 wall DOM and 3/4" heims. Going to work on mounting the IFS box today and see what the drag link is going to look like.
Thats all for now. Headed back offshore later this week and progress will slow until end of March.
- Thread starter
- #39
Anyone ever weld on a stock 80 or mini truck knuckle? Id like to weld a tab between the two heims to tie it into the knuckle some. Also to make the drivers side double shear.
- Thread starter
- #40
Spent some time earlier this week to mock up the steering IFS box and drag link. Whored out the core support and some of the body mount to get it to fit where i wanted. Bought a generic kit on ebay for the frame plates and will have to re-drill it to make it work at the angle i want. But should be good. Everything clears and doesnt seem to bind through the range of motion of the steering. Plenty of clearance to the leaf and frame. Everything will be put into double shear.
Sorry for the s***ty pics, but you get the idea. Pitman arm is a drop unit from the Marlin kit. I plan on welding a plate to the top side of the heim for double shear. It will be drilled out to a 5/8" bolt like the rest of the steering. Box is a far forward as it can go. It hits the leaf spring mount.
View from the other side showing the forward angle. At ride height some of the angle is still there and at bump, it should basically be parallel to the tierod.
And a more exciting update, i picked up a used set of Dirty Life Enigma beadlocks that were on a street K5 blazer. They are in perfect shape. I wanted an old school looking wheel and the beadlocks are all too fancy these days. I think these give that classic sawtooth look. I plan on painting the centers some flavor of gold and keep the rings raw aluminum.
And of course i had to mount a couple of tires. Its sitting on its own weight here. Some trimming required.
Steering at ride height.
Sorry for the s***ty pics, but you get the idea. Pitman arm is a drop unit from the Marlin kit. I plan on welding a plate to the top side of the heim for double shear. It will be drilled out to a 5/8" bolt like the rest of the steering. Box is a far forward as it can go. It hits the leaf spring mount.
View from the other side showing the forward angle. At ride height some of the angle is still there and at bump, it should basically be parallel to the tierod.
And a more exciting update, i picked up a used set of Dirty Life Enigma beadlocks that were on a street K5 blazer. They are in perfect shape. I wanted an old school looking wheel and the beadlocks are all too fancy these days. I think these give that classic sawtooth look. I plan on painting the centers some flavor of gold and keep the rings raw aluminum.
And of course i had to mount a couple of tires. Its sitting on its own weight here. Some trimming required.
Steering at ride height.