ifs hubs on solid axle? (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Of course it's shorter... you didn't write out all the steps...

Pull locking hub face, pull snap ring, pull locking hub body, remove caliper, bend lock washer free, remove first wheel nut, remove lock washer, remove second wheel nut, remove washer, remove wheel bearing, remove hub/caliper, remove 8 bolts, remove spindle, remove birf.

If you know what you're doing I suppose either way is about as much time, but I'd rather deal with just tightening up the trunnion bearing caps instead of having to reset my wheel bearing adjustment, not to mention trying to keep my wheel bearings clean during a trail fix.
 
Of course it's shorter... you didn't write out all the steps...

Pull locking hub face, pull snap ring, pull locking hub body, remove caliper, bend lock washer free, remove first wheel nut, remove lock washer, remove second wheel nut, remove washer, remove wheel bearing, remove hub/caliper, remove 8 bolts, remove spindle, remove birf.

If you know what you're doing I suppose either way is about as much time, but I'd rather deal with just tightening up the trunnion bearing caps instead of having to reset my wheel bearing adjustment, not to mention trying to keep my wheel bearings clean during a trail fix.
no you missed the point with a slide on rotor their would be no need to remove the wheel nuts 1 or 2! just remove the 8 spindle nuts and remove repair the birf!
 
I was like, whaaa?
 
and what is funny is the point i was making you made, with a slide on off rotor you could remove your spindle and hub with out messing with the bearings
 
no you missed the point with a slide on rotor their would be no need to remove the wheel nuts 1 or 2! just remove the 8 spindle nuts and remove repair the birf!


And the spindle comes off with the hub, right?

So all you need to do is pop the hub dial cap the get the c clip(?) off so the birf will slide out of it from that end, right?
 
ok i will right all the steps, first remove the wheel
2 remove and hang the brake caliper
3 remove lock out hub face
4 remove lock ring on inner axel
5 remove rotor
6 remove 8 spindle bolts
7 you have reached the birf fix and replace
reverse procedure and torque bolts to spec to put back together.
i would also use lock tight but not required.
 
I understand the removable rotor, but so far I've seen no proof that it can be done, or that you will be able to get the bolts out with the rotor gone. And from the sounds of it, if it is possible, the brake caliper set up is questionable... So 99.9% of people are not going to have the Taco rotors... I was just playing to the crowd. :cheers:

The hub face, snap ring, and caliper are a wash...
With the removable rotor you're left with 8 bolts, and a gasket surface to deal with.
With the knuckle setup you're left with 8 nuts/4 cone washers, and 8 bolts on the wipers....

Having just done the knuckle way 2 days ago, I will say that getting the knuckle back on by yourself can be a pain... it's heavy... :D
 
Also guys... I got my hands on a VERY confused box, with rear Fzj80 rotor in it;)

tomorrow, we shall see:D But I'm not expecting anything...

PicS021.jpg

Made in Jina? Or made in Chipan?>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>^

PicS022.jpg
 
ok, I'm thinking better today...

Does anyone not see why Tacoma rotors wouldnt fit over the existing SA hub?

The way I see it, the IFS hubs make the wheel track 3" wider and the calipers have to be bolted on the outside of the bosses...

So why can't the rotor be machined to slip over the existing SA hub and the calipers, or IFS calipers retain their natural position?

Or is this another experiment?

Toyota Tacoma cross drilled brake rotors and pads

3n73mb3p05V15P45S1a4cf23de18953c21e4c.jpg





attachment.php
 
This is all a great discussion but at this point the ideas tossed out are pure conjecture. Those ideas will remain such until somebody tries it. I know people come here looking for solid answers. Sometimes though, they don't exist.
 
very true, and if i were hilux i would try it with a messed up rotor first, if it works, then have the new ones machined.
 
I need brakes, b.a.d bad... I also need to repack my bearings...

If I don't have to, I don't want to put press-ons back on it.

I've got some measuring to do...

60 rotor: Store Locator | NAPA Online "Height : 1.89"

Tacoma rotor: Store Locator | NAPA Online "Height : 2.77"


Now I gotta go measure a hub:D



1.89 - 2.77 = .88


PicS004-1.jpg
 
Last edited:
uh-oh... ^^^ Does this mean what I think it means?

somebody please tell me the studs don't go through the rotor...
 
and the rotor is not press on once you take two bolts out and knock all wheel studs out it comes right apart.

Correct. Remove the studs and the bolts and the rotor is off the hub. Use a BFH and a brass hammer to knock the studs out.
 
well, I went and got a Tacoma rotor... I was expecting the "bore" to be in a different place...


As it stands now, the rotor will slip right over the hub, but the ears are too high on the WMS (wheel mounting surface). Tomorrow I'll pull a hub off and see if it can be machined down...

So that's ZERO machining for the rotors, and what should be an easier machine (lathe, less $$$) for the hubs...

Then we'll see how they line up.

I also got to thinking how cool it would be for Marlin to have already machined down hubs... That way you could buy them ready to go and if it works out just put IFS calipers and a Tacoma rotor on and rock and roll...

The Taco rotor was @ $30 after taxes... And to repeat, so far needs NO machine work...
 
Last edited:
well this sucks... I've got the hub mocked up w/o a caliper... And you can't get a socket on them. Only a boxed end wrench.

Is this how guys with IFS hubs do it?

I can still get the hub machined down and try it... But I was expecting being able to put a socket on it..

And I swear to god, when this gets done I'm putting some tags on it... B/c there is not a thing on the internet about it...

So, is it still worth doing if you can only get to the spindle bolts with a boxed end wrench?

Would torquing be important on these bolts?

PicS000.jpg



PicS001.jpg
 
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom