If you had to do it again.. (Wheels & Tires) (1 Viewer)

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Yes, this is another thread about wheels and tires. But let's look at this from a slightly different angle.

We've all made lots of mistakes...I mean, we've all created unintentional features along the way. But if you could do it again, what would you do differently?

I'm hunting for new tires and wheels and want to poll the community. If you had to buy tires and wheels again on a totally stock setup, what would you buy?

That means no spacers, stock suspension, and not even cutting panels. What would you buy for daily driving?
 
I would say for daily driving the stock set up would be the best and least hassle. Even if you have to replace your current set, a set of take-offs will by far be the least expensive option. If you are starting from scratch I might go with 17's if you are going to keep near-stock tire diameter. I started with 18's and got larger tires mostly for the additional (and E rated) sidewall.
 
Probably stick with stock if having to stay stock height. Maybe I'd consider a proper offset +40-20mm aftermarket 18" wheel and one size larger than stock rubber.
 
Not what I would have done, but Ikon Vehicle Dynamics. If they just made the Vector 5 in 18" I'd be happy. That said, I'd probably should have gone with 17" from the moment I swapped the stock tires.
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As chronicled on countless tire and wheel threads, it all depends on your use case. What do you do with your truck besides daily driving? Since you’ve decided to go with stock suspension, you have lots of choices for tires and wheels.
 
I would’ve paid more attention to sidewall reinforcement of my tires. I love my Goodyear Dura tracks from an overall performance point of view. They’re great off-road from a traction point of view, they’re fairly quiet on pavement and perform well on city driving and highway and are also good in snow and ice. I have yet to get stuck or stopped due to traction related to tread on a trail. It’s always clearance which is related to tire size or terrible line that has stopped my rig. The sidewalls however are a bit weak and I am currently cutting them up pretty bad on trails. I have yet to have a flat they seem to run with the nicks and cuts and slices but I feel it’s just a matter of time before I slice through a sidewall and go flat on a trail. So the only thing wrong with the tires is I don’t think they’re gonna last as long as I would like given how I use the truck. If I wanted was an off-road kind of work that would also provide good performance for over landing or easy four wheel use I would stick with my Goodyear Dura tracks
 
I got a smokin deal on a set of TRD wheels with BFG’s already mounted. I have no regrets and would do it again in a heartbeat.
 
focus on tires with lower load ratings in C or D. with careful choice can get the size, tread, durability desired with more compliant road manners.
Old hotness 129load. New hotness 121load.
 
ROCK WARRIORS FOR SURE

I would debate between KO2s DT as they lasted 100k+ miles or Michelins for DD. The KO2s look super raw but not as smooth as michelins. DTs are not as good in snow as its harder rubber. Load ratings is also something I would watch more carefully.
 
I switched from 18”s to 17”. I preferred the 18” as most of my driving is highway and that extra wheel diameter seemed better for on-road handling. Now I’m back to 18” and a happy camper.
 
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I’d ditch the stock tires as I hated them and buy 5 wheels all at once to include the spare.

Don’t do what I did — face your white lettered KO2s on the side for all to see.
I should add my plans aren’t that crazy for mods:

Stock height
Budbuilt rock rails
Arb skid plates

Stock height is good enough for me as I don’t intend to go crazy off-road. Just get to fun camp sites here in Montana with the kiddos. Rock rails and armor seem fine with me for the occasional knock.
 
Put more investment into fitting larger tires. More than suspension. May even negate need for armor. In my mind, they should be the first priority.

With bigger tires:
1) Best lift you can get. It's the only mod that will lift everything under the car, including the rear axle.
2) Adds to suspension performance when aired down. It'll soak up bumps in ways no suspension will. And make any bump feel smaller.
3) More traction with a longer footprint. Helps with floatation.
4) Allows less suspension lift keeping suspension geometry tighter and better handling. Or when paired with large lifts, achieves another level of combined lift.

Any cruiser will easily fit 33s without much compromise. 34 are readily fitted without much work but could have braking and gearing compromises (pre-'16). 35s require those supporting mods (pre-16'), and may require some others like BMC, UCA, clearancing, if running wider and taller.
 
33’s on factory 18’s fit well on ours stock, I’ve since added the OEM 10mm front spacer simply to get rid of some of the factory rake. I’d love to leave it alone from here but I know myself and I will lift it as soon as the wife gets a new daily next year.
 
Yes, this is another thread about wheels and tires. But let's look at this from a slightly different angle.

We've all made lots of mistakes...I mean, we've all created unintentional features along the way. But if you could do it again, what would you do differently?

I'm hunting for new tires and wheels and want to poll the community. If you had to buy tires and wheels again on a totally stock setup, what would you buy?

That means no spacers, stock suspension, and not even cutting panels. What would you buy for daily driving?
I went with 33" KO2s but next time around I'm probably doing Falken Wildpeaks or General Grabber ATs. Don't get me wrong, I've loved my KO2s, but I have learned that they are sorta squirmy on the handling, and I honestly think the sidewall is too aggressive for a stock 40. (Also I'm pretty set on snow-rated tires so I really won't consider anything else)

edit: thought this was the 40-series forum LOL
 
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I’d ditch the stock tires as I hated them and buy 5 wheels all at once to include the spare.

Don’t do what I did — face your white lettered KO2s on the side for all to see.
Love my white lettering!





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I have RW and ~33s I would have bought the RWs before the prices got stupid. Tires I would have looked closer at taller and skinnier than 285/70 17
 
One billion % 34-35” C-D loads on 18-19s. There is no other way. if you have the 8 speed dont even think twice about real 33” or 34”ers. It drives better with them on.

I like the thread idea BTW.
 
285 70 r17 k02’s or toyo at3’s on evo corse’s…they’re a bit heavier than rock warriors but I get the feeling they’re stronger…easy to repaint or powder coat in the long run too.

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