BadReligion
SILVER Star
I was wondering that too. Maybe no rear sway? Reworked KDSS?
If all LC/LX were gone…what would you buy to replace it? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Bajaknot
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Think HE has different rear spring Rate or something? @bloc can tell you more.
Or it could be just manufacturing variation b/w different unit…..
Probably just a bit lighter and stiffer rears. They dont have a spacer up front do they?
What even does ship with the factory spacer?
bloc
SILVER Star
To be fair the numbers are well within margin of error given how unscientific the RTI test is. As evidence of this, both a base and a HE should be able to use all of their suspension travel (on the bumps on stuffed corners, fully dropped out on other corners) on a ramp, and nothing mechanical changed to increase total travel.
But to answer your question about what may be different.. they do have different rear springs, likely due to the lack of a third row. To my knowledge no one has tried swapping HE springs into a minus-third-row base to see if it helps articulation.. but then not many people ramp their 200s anyway. Plus even the HE springs will probably be too soft for a loaded rig to travel offroad.. so most people skip those and go to an OME spring in the rear.
bloc
SILVER Star
Per the diagrams the spacer comes on US market cruisers, but that is clearly not actually the case. So while we can check diagrams for other markets we’d need to verify with owners in those places to see whether it’s true.
Interestingly the diagrams show it being installed on some ROW AHC equipped 200s, but not all. Again we’d need to verify.
Ohhh well if thats is not an interesting point… since i know you have the bulk of the part numbers down pat, do you know what the corresponding front spring is that an AHC LC would have received along with this mythical spacer?
Im 100% doing this or a 15-20mm, still deciding on UCAs. Probably doing SPC adjustable. But im still lost LOL.
I would say to not bother with UCAs. Not unless you're planning to do a sensor lift over ~2". For a street car that's not lifted over that, IMO, the factory UCA is superior. Race car, there may be advantages to using one with more accurate ball joints and sphericals. Otherwise most UCAs are just to address alignment range so it can be brought back into spec when lifted over 2".
Thanks. I like not spending money too.
The shop recommended it and the alignment went well, but my front left could use a touch more caster and they were maxed out.
I believe i have a driver side spring sagging a bit or maybe im just doing too much when im the only occupant and all the weight is in that corner it does pull to that wheel.
Under hard braking, before and after any mods i did, it was the first corner to break traction and is always the first trigger ABS. I can hear it.
There is always chassis differences as well that could be at play.
Here it is again. Maybe one of the alignment experts can chime in.
How much sensor lift do you have again?
Your caster actually looks fine and plenty. People like to talk about more caster but my experience is that the 200-series chassis is fine on the low end of caster with its heavier stable steering, especially when the rest of the suspension geometry is good. Perhaps using caster to compensate for compromised geometry in things like scrub radius, which causes steering to be more sensitive.
What could use a bit of adjustment is the amount of camber. That would be a priority over caster and I would trade that for better camber. The LX chassis wants almost zero to a touch of negative camber (especially with taller sidewall tires to keep them from rolling over in a turn). Just a touch too much positive camber here that is trading off cornering and braking traction.
bloc
SILVER Star
Not much point digging into spring part numbers, as there are dozens of them. Plus, the diagrams show the spacer on your USDM 2017 LX.. so you could use your own spring part numbers, technically.
V12 Toyota 750hp HiAce conversion van
I think this is a very interesting concept that would be appealing if it had an electric motor. Might be cooler than cybertruck without self driving. I like my 7.3L turbodiesel E350 but wish it had taller ceiling height.
Toyota BEV
I have gotten used to Land Cruiser seating position but I really want a super safe super efficient BEV Toyota with easy entry. I know I have been a torque monster but now want to be efficiency slayer that makes travelling super super super cheap (I think teslas can drive cross country for $70).
I think this is a very interesting concept that would be appealing if it had an electric motor. Might be cooler than cybertruck without self driving. I like my 7.3L turbodiesel E350 but wish it had taller ceiling height.
Toyota BEV
I have gotten used to Land Cruiser seating position but I really want a super safe super efficient BEV Toyota with easy entry. I know I have been a torque monster but now want to be efficiency slayer that makes travelling super super super cheap (I think teslas can drive cross country for $70).
New Yukon Denali (leveled, ATs). Why?
- I wouldn't do in a new G Wagen what I do in my LC (not saying the G couldn't do it).
- 90% of what I do offroad the Denali would suffice for.
- For the last 15% of my use case, you can trailer a harder core off road vehicle there (or a UTV). I think this point #3 comes down to how much you do above what most full size 4WD SUVs can achieve.
Spent some time as a passenger and behind the wheel of a new Defender this past weekend and figured I would add my $0.02 on it. Car had 15,000 miles on it.
Good:
-great looks (exterior) - a real head-turner if you like that sort of thing
-legendary heritage
-good mix of every day drivability and off-road chops
-the interior design and materials are well thought out - a nice mix of ruggedness/utilitarian and modern/luxury
-exterior camera system is impressive
Bad:
-obvious quality issues - an exterior trim piece on the B pillar was flapping in the wind at interstate speeds, rear tailgate handle/locking mechanism felt cheap and likely to malfunction, driver seat belt assembly would not retract belt, windshield wipers would not stop freezing/sticking to the windshield, CarPlay would work intermittently
-the infotainment system is way too convoluted and frustrating. Engineers tried too hard to emulate the iPad. Too many nested functions, especially ones that tie into the 4x4 functions and multi-terrain select, etc. additionally, the few “buttons” that control those same functions are really confusing. Would much prefer buttons, handles, etc. instead of clunky unreliable iPad-like features
-Questionable reliability - obviously time will tell in this specific case, but he has owned two LR/RR products before and they did not age well.
For last reason alone, I would take an LC/LX over this vehicle. Also, I prefer the no non-sense, truck-like features of these rigs over the overly-tech heavy, car-like unibody construction of the Defender.
Drove a Lexus LX600 last night. Easy decision for me. That’ll be the replacement for my 200.
631 horsepower. 0-60 in 3.1 seconds. 186 top speed. Seats 5. Cayenne Turbo GT would be insane.
The build options for Porsche are endless. Thick glass, awesome sound system, headlights, etc. I love the interiors too. Drove a 2010 base Cayenne and was super smooth and strong. Very well put together and great German engineering that shows. One day.
The build options for Porsche are endless. Thick glass, awesome sound system, headlights, etc. I love the interiors too. Drove a 2010 base Cayenne and was super smooth and strong. Very well put together and great German engineering that shows. One day.
