I used a sledge hammer to kill a fly... (1 Viewer)

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One other little tidbit regarding heat soak and the oil pressure sending unit. After my first and second drive with the sending unit screwed into the block oil galley (normal placement).. the temp at the sending unit was 450+ degrees. Now of course the exhaust manifolds produced the heat.. but the sending unit was the recipient. Reading the temp at the sending unit when mounted close to the fender.. it had obviously dropped a lot.. 125 degrees.

So if the louvers do a satisfactory job of removing some heat.. 450 degrees around the sending unit area might see a drop. That would be a good thing!! Obviously I will do all of the same tests once I get the louvers installed in the next few weeks. Also will include all kinds of photos from topside to underneath. Hopefully those photos will redeem my overall MUD status after leaving them out in my #27 post and the thread I started!
 
I thought there were issues with the silicon PHH also failing?
 
We know the 80 shape is more breeze block than aerodynamic, and pushing it through the air at speed has to be hard on the motor, so any help with under hood airflow has to be a bonus.

My own research shows that without doubt air has trouble entering the 80 radiator as speed builds, there is no problem with workload versus cooling airflow from around 20 MPH up to about 60 - 70 MPH, after that is when the workload versus cooling ratio starts to go a little awry.

Many have mentioned they feel the 'sweet spot' for reasonable fuel consumption is around 65 MPH, anything higher and the fuel starts to really burn up. Apart from the obvious load increase from pushing the 80 faster the viscous clutch on the fan engages to help pull air through, so adding to your fuel bill.

By lifting the hood or venting must surely help, I would not lift the rear of the hood as I don't like the look, but will certainly go with louvres.

Regards

Dave
 
zonker said:
The louvers are only meant as an assist to relieve hot air. Not to necessarily increase air flow thru the radiator. However more airflow "might" be a bonus. Even if only 20% of the hot air is drawn out of the louvers because of the pressure differential between the engine compartment and outside air.. I am certain that the amount of heat soak will diminish.

A couple months back I proved that the oil pressures sending unit looses efficiency as heat from the exhaust manifold heat soaks the sending unit. My oil pressure was great with just a normal operating temp of 185 degrees. After 30 minutes of freeway the indicated oil pressure dropped a fair amount. Engine temp was still 185. Replaced the sending unit. No change. Put an extra heat shield above the unit. Now it took longer for the same end result. Next step I moved the sending unit temporarily over towards the fender via cooper tube. No change in pressure after the same drive only now for a full hour.

So in my opinion heat soak is real and if I can make some of the engine compartment components last a little longer.. that would make me smile. If for no other reason.. just because!
Click to expand...

As long as some of the air is coming out I agree, it's working. I don't mean to say that it has to work like a Ford GT or anything, just that because of the way hi/lo pressures work that the vent will either allow air out or in the hood, no neutral, and of course you want it to go out which means it's taking the radiator air out which would normally go out the bottom of the truck and with lifted rigs is much more likely so you have to work harder to prevent that.

Interesting about the oil pressure, never thought about it but it does seem the gauge shows lower than it should. Keep the info coming, I hope I don't sound like a neigh sayer, just trying to add to the discussion.

Also it was mentioned somewher about lifting the rear of the hood, I've tried it and it overheated like a mile down the highway, not good unless you install some sort of gurney flap in front of the gap.
 
If the OP could post some pics of the underside of the hood that would be much appreciated. Thanks!
 
Here's a pic from under the hood. I could have trimmed a bit more from the driver side of the hood but I think it's likely big enough.

IMG_1807.JPG
 
Zonker/socallove - one of you needs to do an entire build/installation thread on this! Very nice mod!!!
 
ElJayBird said:
What makes you say that?
Click to expand...

It is discolored (brown). You are usually OK, but if you do any work around the area and start moving the hoses it can start to leak, or crumble and break. Mine looked like that this year and developed a small leak. When I redid my cooling system it basically started to fall apart in my hands as I was removing it.
 
Kaninja said:
It is discolored (brown). You are usually OK, but if you do any work around the area and start moving the hoses it can start to leak, or crumble and break. Mine looked like that this year and developed a small leak. When I redid my cooling system it basically started to fall apart in my hands as I was removing it.
Click to expand...

I checked it when I redid everything and it seemed okay. I'll go ahead and replace it anyway...better safe than sorry.
 
I like the louvers and believe in there functional feature but I'm a tad bit concerned about rainfall because this louver is directly above some important connections.
 
I have a possible solution should water entering through the louvers be a problem. There is quite a bit of room between the bottom of the louvers and the highest point of the engine. I would make a baffle out of sheet aluminum that would cover the area of the louvers. Suspend it from the bottom of the hood with approximately 1" standoffs. I believe that would provide enough volume around the edges to allow hot air to escape via the louvers.

Taking it one step further.. have a lip all the way around the baffle to control where the water drips. Have an opening in the lip at exactly the right point for the water to drip away.

Keep in mind this is my preliminary plan. I am aware that this will have to be engineered specifically after installing the louvers. I hope to start installation of the louvered panel in a couple weeks. I will know more then.
 
zonker said:
I have a possible solution should water entering through the louvers be a problem. There is quite a bit of room between the bottom of the louvers and the highest point of the engine. I would make a baffle out of sheet aluminum that would cover the area of the louvers. Suspend it from the bottom of the hood with approximately 1" standoffs. I believe that would provide enough volume around the edges to allow hot air to escape via the louvers.

Taking it one step further.. have a lip all the way around the baffle to control where the water drips. Have an opening in the lip at exactly the right point for the water to drip away.

Keep in mind this is my preliminary plan. I am aware that this will have to be engineered specifically after installing the louvers. I hope to start installation of the louvered panel in a couple weeks. I will know more then.
Click to expand...
Or, for those, like me, who live where it only rains during winter, mount the louvers so that can be removed and replaced by a solid plate during the cool rainy months.
 
@baldilocks.. great additional solution! I don't know if these are still viable.. but I am thinking Dzus fasteners. Especially since I have a huge amount left over from the 'ol racing days. Thanks for the additional thought that reminded me that I have 'em by the thousands!! Well not quite thousands.. but it sounded good! :)

Just thinking I might make a pattern of the panel before I install it. The Dzus thing is starting to sound pretty darn good!
 
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