I seem to have a lack of power? (2 Viewers)

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Good that you found *a* problem with the paperclip test. Once you get that resolved and get some of your power back you may want to do a tuneup - plugs, points, timing could all make a difference on how it runs.

Yours looks to have been desmogged. Whether is was "proper" will take some additional work. Here's some threads to start you off:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/77-fj40-federal-2f-desmog.440852/ - Realize that I have a '78 carburetor with a '79 distributor, but some of the basic info is good.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/77-fj40-2f-desmog-correct-vacuum-routing.809378/

If you need something beside the FSM to get you by for now, the Haynes manual is pretty inexpensive and, from what I've found, pretty good and easy to use for a '77.

I also have a long drawn out thread here when I was searching for the source of my power problems:
http://risingsun4x4club.org/forum2/showthread.php?t=16462

You should be able to get 12-15 mpg out of a good running 2F. Remember though that a 2F has more displacement than an F, so in general it might not get quite as "good" of mileage.

Good luck!
 
Thanks for the help and the great links with all that info. I guess I have a lot of homework to do. :)

Here are some pictures of the passenger side of my Cruiser.


P9033118.JPG P9033119.JPG P9033120.JPG
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P9033119.JPG
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I took off the secondary diaphragm and tested it. It does pull the rod in but when I stop sucking and put my finger over the hole the rod slowly starts coming back out and only takes about 10 to 15 seconds before it is all the way out again. This seems a little too fast to me.

It seems pretty tight around the back of the carb. Do I need to pull it off to be able to bend that tab for the secondary or is it possible to do with it on?
 
It seems like there is a hole in the diaphragm so it won't hold vacuum and it is time to replace the diaphragm.
 
Thanks, Pin_Head. I will get a new one ordered.

I was able to bend the tab with a combination of pliers and a screw driver. Went for another drive and still failed the paper clip test. So I had my wife depress the gas pedal to the floor and the linkage never touched the tab for the secondary. I checked the bracket on the fire wall that the throttle rod runs through. It is a little sloppy but not bad. I will replace that rubber piece while I'm at this but that won't solve the problem. I held the rod steady and it sill did not come close enough. Is there some way to take up the slack or do I need to replace some of that linkage?
 
NAPA has those diaphragms for about $12-$15.

You might try posting up pictures of your carb linkage, if you can. You might also get yourself a factory service manual (Or Haynes in the mean time) to help understand the adjustments on the carburetor linkage.

Oh, and you should probably order up a new battery hold-down from SOR or someplace that doesn't crush the cell caps!
 
I knew that I needed a battery bracket. I have a dual battery tray I had made for my other cruiser that is on the short list of mods. But the lack of power (Which I wasn't expecting, thought it would be in ready to roll mechanically.) has kind of taken over at this point.

I do have a Haynes manual. I just need to find it.

I Will post up a few pics later tonight.
 
I found my Haynes manual tonight. Not that it was much help in this cerium stance. All it says is to adjust the accelerator linkage to remove any backlash. Thats my problem. urgh! How do I adjust it? The illustration it has doesn't even match what mine looks like. I looked at it pretty close again but can't really see any place to take up slack or adjust the rods further so that they rotate far enough to kick open the secondary.

Anybody know if there is a way to adjust the the accelerator linkage on a '77?
 
Pictures of your setup might help if you can get them. I know it's a tight spot


...via IH8MUD app
 
Look at your second photo above, the vacuum hose is coming off the inside of the vacuum unit on the distributor (closest side to the distributor). That is a vacuum retard unit- - - translation=loss of power. The good news is Landcruiser vacuum advance distributors fit your engine.
 
Look at your second photo above, the vacuum hose is coming off the inside of the vacuum unit on the distributor (closest side to the distributor). That is a vacuum retard unit- - - translation=loss of power. The good news is Landcruiser vacuum advance distributors fit your engine.

So Jim you are saying that that is not a factory '77 distributor? A factory '77 should be a vacuum advance unit AFAIK.

http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/dist.php
 
So Jim you are saying that that is not a factory '77 distributor? A factory '77 should be a vacuum advance unit AFAIK.

http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/dist.php

It is retaaaded.

Retard or advance type distributors doesn't really matter. There is no intrinsic performance advantage of either. They need to adjust the timing in response to RPM and engine load for optimum power without preignition. You can either advance the timing as load falls off or retard it as load increases and it accomplishes the same thing.

The specific problem for Cruiser vacuum retard distributors is that they were designed to be operated electronically via the engine computer. There is no provision for their strictly vacuum-mechanical operation.
 
So in my situation, is it better to have advance or retard? I'm planning on keeping it de-smogged even if I need to re-do some things. Is it worth the money to get an electronic ignition? Not necessarily for more power but mostly for maintenance.

Here are some pictures I took of the accelerator linkage. Not very good but maybe it will help. If I need to I could figure out a way to hold some hoses out of the way.

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In general, after market ignitions are a waste of money because the stock one is very reliable and low maintenence.
You could get a new distributor from one of the vendors here and get vacuum advance and electronic ignition and kill two birds with one stone.
 
If you're desmogged, what is the vac retard connected to on the other end?
 
I haven't dismantled my Aisin carb, but I have been told that the venturies are easily swapped if the original position is not noted prior to teardown. They are different but will fit in each other's location. Since your carb recently was overhauled, could the venturies be bass-ackwards? I know Toyota did the work, but how long has it been since Toyota techs have had a carb class? Hey, just askin'.
 
My '76 2f runs about like yours and I have smaller 31" tires. I attribute the lack of performance to lack of compression. It burns oil but I have put about 4000 fun miles on it. Just don't get in a hurry.

Before you pull your hair out and start throwing $ around get your compression checked.
 
It is retaaaded.

Retard or advance type distributors doesn't really matter. There is no intrinsic performance advantage of either. They need to adjust the timing in response to RPM and engine load for optimum power without preignition. You can either advance the timing as load falls off or retard it as load increases and it accomplishes the same thing.

The specific problem for Cruiser vacuum retard distributors is that they were designed to be operated electronically via the engine computer. There is no provision for their strictly vacuum-mechanical operation.
Never knew this-so now I think I know why mine doesn't work!!(esp since the dizzy plate seems to be locked)--It has two vac connections-one on each side of the dizzy diaphragm. The current setup is the advance port is connected to the carb vac port, but since the thing seems to be locked, the vac connection is pretty much useless. Think I should just cap it off like the retard port. Timing is dead on right now.
 
If you have two advance ports with one on each side of the diaphragm, then one is advance and the other is retard. They were still electronically controlled.
 

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