I need serious help... (1 Viewer)

[Fcked94fj80]

I've lurked for 2 months now while I tried to fix this disaster of a 94 triple locked 80s series. If u really wanna know whole back story ill gladly type my adventure up lol however I've reached my wits end. I am now in need of actual conversation to sort this out. Number 1 my ect doesn't work. I've bought a button and I now have a 2nd on the way so maybe, 2nd my o/d doesn't work. My ect plug has power to it. The od I can feel a difference but no dash light. Ect I feel no difference. Also could be dash light. As p/o removed most of the important ones as one of many ways he hid stuff that was wrong. Idk where these 2 lights should be on dash. 3rd and most recently, my pass rear brake light has blown twice. Coincides w my radio which is also bootleg wired to act up and shut off. Well now after I pulled tail light apart again to swap a new bulb in. Nothing on the rear pass side works at all... it is a disaster of a wiring mess by p/o again. And I obviously can't drive it without a working turn signal, brake light, etc. This is a pic of the hog and the wiring mess. I'm not the best at reading wiring diagrams as I've looked and can't find anything to help me. But it's weird the radio acts up when tail light is out. Then I have this issue w front spring mount which from what I've read is actually welded on and only way to replace is a new axle. Thennnn my fuel leak issue. I attached photos of it all. I ordered a new gasket, vent hose and small piece of filler line. Hopefully yall can verify that's my issue. But taking this camping and breathing fumes in all night isn't great.

 

[Brindleboxer]

First, welcome officially to the site. I am guessing you chose the username just now when feeling great about the 80

I would suggest to download the manuals from the resources section. They are great for troubleshooting and have saved me more than once.

Let's try and get some direction for the problems you are facing. The ECT may be working and the bulb is just burnt and/or removed. I am saying this since you mentioned the PO removed a bunch of items behind the dash. I never really notice and real chance if ECT is on or off, truthfully I usually don't even bother with it.
In reference to your O/D, if you feel it remove you from OD when activated it is working. The only indication of the button being pressed is the dash light, the rest is noticed by a change to shift and usually an increase in RPM due to removing the overdrive function. Both lights should be visible in the center of the cluster just under the RNDL indicators.

My suggestion for the taillight is to find good wire as you most likely have a break or short somewhere. A mulitmeter is your friend here. I would try and determine if you are getting power at the taillight assembly and work back from there. The picture shows some splices so the fewer you retain the less possibility for issues later. Now I don't think the issue with the stereo and the taillight are linked unless someone did some really creative wiring. In the left rear there is wiring for the factory sub and it is right beside the harness going out to the taillights. I have had two 80 where the harness for the rear hitch was joined to the factory harness at this location. As for the radio, I would disconnect to ensure you get lights as they are more important than tunes. Also, with the amount of mud on the truck you should invest in the soldered crimp sleeves with shrink tubing when fixing the wiring as this will give the best seal of the joint.

There are testing procedures in the manuals to cover all of this.

The spring mount issue I cannot comment on as the picture isn't that great and I am not a welder, my suggestion would be to get a professional opinion.

If the picture if of the filler neck and related hose then you may have the fix on the way. If you have fuel near the top of the tank then you may have a split (not untypical) and it would require other repairs.

I am sure others will chime in with possible suggestions but I would strongly suggest downloading the manuals from the resource section and keeping them on your phone/tablet or printing for reference. FSM - 1994 FZJ80 EWD - https://forum.ih8mud.com/resources/1994-fzj80-ewd.96/ and FSM - 1993-1994 FZJ-80 Updated and Combined FSM - https://forum.ih8mud.com/resources/1993-1994-fzj-80-updated-and-combined-fsm.124/

 

[Fcked94fj80]

Thanks for the reply! So in relation to the tail light. I have questions all of those connectors don't have a mate. Idk what they go to, and the very bottom one dangling it's 2 wires, the other end was on it but it was like melted like it caught fire. Now that was like that previously because i had to replace the bulb day 1. But today I just disconnected it as it went nowhere. Maybe had an 1/8 in of wire on other side. My ocd needs to know what those are. And I've poured over the diagrams for the electronics all day and can't find anything. I've had the dash apart so many times I'll try and just disconnect the radio all together. I went to Walmart and bought a harness to do it properly after seeing it but since realized he took wires out of some of the og connectors and it's a mess. Is there an image that shows back of dash which bulbs I need specifically? As thats another thing I've hunted for and can't find. He pulled the check engine bulb and a couple other ones, the o2 sensor plugs were on opposite banks, he stuffed garbage bags and spray foam to hide rust. Just some of the things I'll mention for u to get an idea of how bad he took me. And I drove 6 hrs for it.

First, welcome officially to the site. I am guessing you chose the username just now when feeling great about the 80

I would suggest to download the manuals from the resources section. They are great for troubleshooting and have saved me more than once.

Let's try and get some direction for the problems you are facing. The ECT may be working and the bulb is just burnt and/or removed. I am saying this since you mentioned the PO removed a bunch of items behind the dash. I never really notice and real chance if ECT is on or off, truthfully I usually don't even bother with it.
In reference to your O/D, if you feel it remove you from OD when activated it is working. The only indication of the button being pressed is the dash light, the rest is noticed by a change to shift and usually an increase in RPM due to removing the overdrive function. Both lights should be visible in the center of the cluster just under the RNDL indicators.

My suggestion for the taillight is to find good wire as you most likely have a break or short somewhere. A mulitmeter is your friend here. I would try and determine if you are getting power at the taillight assembly and work back from there. The picture shows some splices so the fewer you retain the less possibility for issues later. Now I don't think the issue with the stereo and the taillight are linked unless someone did some really creative wiring. In the left rear there is wiring for the factory sub and it is right beside the harness going out to the taillights. I have had two 80 where the harness for the rear hitch was joined to the factory harness at this location. As for the radio, I would disconnect to ensure you get lights as they are more important than tunes. Also, with the amount of mud on the truck you should invest in the soldered crimp sleeves with shrink tubing when fixing the wiring as this will give the best seal of the joint.

There are testing procedures in the manuals to cover all of this.

The spring mount issue I cannot comment on as the picture isn't that great and I am not a welder, my suggestion would be to get a professional opinion.

If the picture if of the filler neck and related hose then you may have the fix on the way. If you have fuel near the top of the tank then you may have a split (not untypical) and it would require other repairs.

I am sure others will chime in with possible suggestions but I would strongly suggest downloading the manuals from the resource section and keeping them on your phone/tablet or printing for reference. FSM - 1994 FZJ80 EWD - https://forum.ih8mud.com/resources/1994-fzj80-ewd.96/ and FSM - 1993-1994 FZJ-80 Updated and Combined FSM - https://forum.ih8mud.com/resources/1993-1994-fzj-80-updated-and-combined-fsm.124/

 

[BILT4ME]

On the radio/taillight thing:
My radio would go dead when I put my truck in reverse.

Took me a while to find it.

Turns out it was the missing bolts that held the antenna to the fender. I installed 3 bolts and that was enough to give it a ground and fix the problem.

On that terrible wiring on the taillight, for the $28 ish that the rear harness is for one taillight, it's worth it to clean it up and fix potential issues.

 

[Fcked94fj80]

On the radio/taillight thing:
My radio would go dead when I put my truck in reverse.

Took me a while to find it.

Turns out it was the missing bolts that held the antenna to the fender. I installed 3 bolts and that was enough to give it a ground and fix the problem.

On that terrible wiring on the taillight, for the $28 ish that the rear harness is for one taillight, it's worth it to clean it up and fix potential issues.

Got a link for the harness??

 

[BILT4ME]

Got a link for the harness??

Go to www.partsouq.com to find the part number.
Plug in your VIN and then find the electrical section.

Then check (Google search) McGeorge Toyota in Virginia for online pricing. Plug in the part number from step one (you can find it on McGeorge site as well, but partsouq is better and easier to follow.)

I can buy parts from them and be shipped to my door cheaper than I can drive to my local Toyota dealership.

 

[xetura]

If you're going to order a lot of stuff, Impex Japan is super cheap and a great place to get OEM parts from. Cheaper than Partsouq, even (for 99% of the stuff I've ordered). It just takes a litter longer since it's coming from Japan, but the amount I've saved ordering from them is immense. I've also been able to get things there I couldn't find anywhere else. That plastic trim that goes around the steering wheel column? $30 at Impex. It's $112 at McGeorge Toyota and $138 at my local dealership.

Of course if you need it NOW, McGeorge or a local dealership is the way to go since you won't be waiting. Just thought I'd let you know just in case!

 

[LandLocked93]

I'll add what I'm betting others are thinking - Give it a good pressure wash THEN see what's what. And I mean spend some time on it. There could be years of poor upkeep hiding even more stuff you need to know about.
It will help to, if nothing else, keep you cleaner than otherwise while you work on it.
The pic with the two hoses...I can't tell what those even are. Fuel filler area I suspect, since you mentioned. But there's so much crud build up hardly a chance to see the leaking bit.

The tail light...the wires with electrical wrap look like an attempt to add a trailer harness by tapping into the factory wiring. If so, do you tow? If it is trailer harness wiring and you do not tow, rip (remove in a level-headed manner) that crap out of there. Get it back to factory. The larger dangling harness connector is the actual tail light feed. Presumably it has issues but better to get that fixed and go back to OEM. If you need a trailer harness for towing, revisit after this is fixed.
Take a look behind the left tail light to see what it should look like (assuming PO didn't ham fist that also)
Fresh harness for the tail lights:
81565-60241 - Socket & Wire Sub-Assy, Rear Combination Lamp, LH
81555-60321 - Socket & Wire Sub-Assy, Rear Combination Lamp, RH
There should also be a rubber piece separating the tail light housing from the body, protecting the rear of the light housings from splash and mud. And as the right housing is missing its wire grommet going into the housing, highly recommend.
These are they:
81962-60010 - Cover, Rear Lamp, LH
81952-60010 - Cover, Rear Lamp, RH

Front coil spring...again so much crud...what's the issue with that? Apart from what looks like a perished cushion? (which too are still available)

edit: the dangling 2-wire connector looks like it may be part of the defroster circuit. But others may have a better idea. Oh and disregard the disconnected tubing. That's for RHD barn door models washer line...unless your rear window washer doesn't work. Been a while but feel like the hatch models (like ours) washer line is on the left side.

edit edit: I used these LEDs to repair the third brake light and also refresh all the back lighting in the center dash.
Have a hunch they will also work to refresh your cluster lighting. (reverse POs flagrant actions)
Amazon product ASIN B07T5K4M8B

 

[Fcked94fj80]

I'll add what I'm betting others are thinking - Give it a good pressure wash THEN see what's what. And I mean spend some time on it. There could be years of poor upkeep hiding even more stuff you need to know about.
It will help to, if nothing else, keep you cleaner than otherwise while you work on it.
The pic with the two hoses...I can't tell what those even are. Fuel filler area I suspect, since you mentioned. But there's so much crud build up hardly a chance to see the leaking bit.

The tail light...the wires with electrical wrap look like an attempt to add a trailer harness by tapping into the factory wiring. If so, do you tow? If it is trailer harness wiring and you do not tow, rip (remove in a level-headed manner) that crap out of there. Get it back to factory. The larger dangling harness connector is the actual tail light feed. Presumably it has issues but better to get that fixed and go back to OEM. If you need a trailer harness for towing, revisit after this is fixed.
Take a look behind the left tail light to see what it should look like (assuming PO didn't ham fist that also)
Fresh harness for the tail lights:
81565-60241 - Socket & Wire Sub-Assy, Rear Combination Lamp, LH
81555-60321 - Socket & Wire Sub-Assy, Rear Combination Lamp, RH
There should also be a rubber piece separating the tail light housing from the body, protecting the rear of the light housings from splash and mud. And as the right housing is missing its wire grommet going into the housing, highly recommend.
These are they:
81962-60010 - Cover, Rear Lamp, LH
81952-60010 - Cover, Rear Lamp, RH

Front coil spring...again so much crud...what's the issue with that? Apart from what looks like a perished cushion? (which too are still available)

edit: the dangling 2-wire connector looks like it may be part of the defroster circuit. But others may have a better idea. Oh and disregard the disconnected tubing. That's for RHD barn door models washer line...unless your rear window washer doesn't work. Been a while but feel like the hatch models (like ours) washer line is on the left side.

edit edit: I used these LEDs to repair the third brake light and also refresh all the back lighting in the center dash.
Have a hunch they will also work to refresh your cluster lighting. (reverse POs flagrant actions)
Amazon product ASIN B07T5K4M8B

Ur awesome thank u!!! Left side looks good. I already had that apart just to try and compare and I still can't figure it out. I found this behind the left tail light. No f-ing clue

 

[Fj80oregon]

Ur awesome thank u!!! Left side looks good. I already had that apart just to try and compare and I still can't figure it out. I found this behind the left tail light. No f-ing clue

View attachment 3466102

That’s part of the OEM Jack handle your Jack and bag with the handles should be behind the removable panel on drivers cargo side panel. Just in front of the left taillight.

 

[Fcked94fj80]

That’s part of the OEM Jack handle your Jack and bag with the handles should be behind the removable panel on drivers cargo side panel. Just in front of the left taillight.

Ahhhok yeppp it was literally in the fender behind the tail light so I was puzzled lol I feel like this is a never ending game of what breaks next. That pic of the spring, the seat? Has holes in it. I was told by Facebook mechanics it was part of the axle and not replaceable

 

[mudgudgeon]

As others have said, wash the mud of the spring perch so you can see it better.

Use the search button, or google search to find pictures to compare yours with other diff housings.

I don't see any issues, but can't see what's covered in mud.

 

[Zjohnsonua]

It's a NE truck so rust is going to happen. You're in the game of avoiding rust causing structural problems, so long as that spring perch isn't rusting through where the springs ride it's not a huge issue. I'll pile on to the clean-it-well group though....can't tell much.

 

[Fcked94fj80]

Ok so I did some investigating before work this morning and everything works with headlights off now. Po literally spliced a tail light connector into it so I used the heat shrink weather proof connectors and redid it all. The brake light is faint but it works. When I turn headlights on is now when it's acting up. My voltage on dash bounces, and brake light doesn't work. Everything else does. Where do I look from here?

 

[mudgudgeon]

Check every ground wire you can find.
Check they are tight, clean, and not corroded.

There's a diagram of all the ground point locations in the EWDs which can be found in the Resources section

 

[Malleus]

This is definitely a project...

 

[LandLocked93]

Ur awesome thank u!!! Left side looks good. I already had that apart just to try and compare and I still can't figure it out. I found this behind the left tail light. No f-ing clue

View attachment 3466102

Ok, so +1 - that is one leg of a 3-leg jack handle/spare tire wrench that runs the chain winch to drop the spare tire down from beneath the truck. Ping for more details if you use that spare tire carrier.

The two-wire lead with a bulb/socket on the end...that goes into the rear side marker, just ahead of the rear drivers side tail light. My truck had the issue where the jack came loose and smacked that socket right out of the marker lens housing, breaking the 90 degree twist mating surface of the lens housing. Ended up just RTV'ing the socket back into the lens housing. (that is once the jack was securely affixed in its mount, which is to say secured by something other than the factory 4" rubber tie-down - guessing yours is likely missing. Zip ties of sufficient length and girth work well)

The tail light connectors tho look as they should, with the foam wrap n' such.

Still recommend replacing at least the right side tail light harness such that there are no breaks in the wiring from the large connector to the housing. The harness also includes new bulb sockets which, in bad condition, can contribute to the dimness and such that you have now.

 

[leonard_nemoy]

You poor poor man, I would not want to be in this situation.....

 

[DivByZero]

Looks like a good second 80 for someone who already knows them and is comfortable wrenching and using a multimeter. For a first timer, this will be a bit of a trial by fire. Parts exist though and everything is solvable, just a question of if you have the time, patience, and money to see it through.

 

[Fcked94fj80]

Looks like a good second 80 for someone who already knows them and is comfortable wrenching and using a multimeter. For a first timer, this will be a bit of a trial by fire. Parts exist though and everything is solvable, just a question of if you have the time, patience, and money to see it through.

She ain't going anywhere, other than the bootleg wiring she runs like a champ and for 2 months this wasn't an issue. So there is no way it's something major. I've just gotta find a way to find the gremlin