Ill have to keep that in mind if mine go on the fritz. Good to know
Builds I happened upon a 100 Series 4 month build (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter TEXAS 57
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- #342
The part that irks me is it only took 20 mins. LOL
Love the work that you've put into getting this LC back into shape, and it's cool to see how many members are here in the Houston area.
- Thread starter
- #344
The ol' girl has been cruising along nicely over the last year or so. We decided to take a road trip from Katy, TX to Colorado Springs (18 hrs) with the family over the Thanksgiving week to see and stay with my aunt. Ignore the old Star in the windshield cruising the Amarillo Hwy... Insert Terry Allen or Robert Earl Keen song here.
On the the way up there, in Clayton, NM, we filled up and I noticed a strong fuel smell from the exhaust (like running rich). There was also a large sucking sound when removing the gas cap. I wrote it off as elevation and pressure changes and moved on. Well, I was wrong. It was occurring all time. I was tracking gas mileage and it went from 14- 15 MPGs down to 11-12 MPGs. I assumed Charcoal Cannister and got to my aunt's house. We drove all around Colorado and filled up a few times and had no issues and the smells seemed to have gone away. We went to Cave of the Winds, Garden of the Gods, Echo Mountain (Snow Tubing), elevation ~10,000ft up Pikes Peak and Palo Duro Canyon with not many issues and the MPGs got better (but hard to tell because of the uphill driving, descents in low gear and turning off Overdrive).
At my Aunt's house on the side a mountain.
Exactly 2595 miles later we got home without CELs. I ordered a Charcoal Cannister and it would show up the next day. The next day, my wife took the LC to work, and barely made it back home. Check engine light (P0100), and limp mode. I could not restart the truck.
I put the new Charcoal Cannister in and replaced all the vacuum hoses around there. I was happy to see the Rockauto Charcoal Cannister was a Toyota / Denso unit. The electric valves were Toyota stamped as well (around $350 shipped). I pulled the PCV valve and cleaned it (it was clogged) and cleaned the Throttle Body butterfly. Unhooked the battery and let the Computers reset, fired it up and it ran awful and smelled but it started. It popped another code, P0100, and was not running great but was relearning and getting better albeit a very high erratic RPM. I bought a Hitachi brand MAF sensor and replaced that and the codes went away and seemed to fix most of those issues.
Other issues that popped up after the trip:
We started losing the dryness in the HVAC system. I noticed the discharge line that got pinholes in the rubber part that I replaced a while back was leaking at the metal to rubber connection. Got another one on order.
Also, we were losing coolant. Not a lot was lost through the whole trip so it is a small leak. I found the crystalized pink build up at the passenger side front crossover pipe gasket to the engine block. Parts on order.
Regardless of the issues, the ride was super comfortable and very enjoyable. The Buddy Holly Museum, Cadillac Ranch, The Slug Bug Ranch, The Big Texan, Route 66, Rotan Pass, Cave of the Winds, Garden of the Gods, Echo Mountain (Snow Tubing), elevation ~10,000ft up Pikes Peak, Palo Duro Canyon and 2 Colorado Families were all marked off the checklist.
Cadillac Ranch:
On the the way up there, in Clayton, NM, we filled up and I noticed a strong fuel smell from the exhaust (like running rich). There was also a large sucking sound when removing the gas cap. I wrote it off as elevation and pressure changes and moved on. Well, I was wrong. It was occurring all time. I was tracking gas mileage and it went from 14- 15 MPGs down to 11-12 MPGs. I assumed Charcoal Cannister and got to my aunt's house. We drove all around Colorado and filled up a few times and had no issues and the smells seemed to have gone away. We went to Cave of the Winds, Garden of the Gods, Echo Mountain (Snow Tubing), elevation ~10,000ft up Pikes Peak and Palo Duro Canyon with not many issues and the MPGs got better (but hard to tell because of the uphill driving, descents in low gear and turning off Overdrive).
At my Aunt's house on the side a mountain.
Exactly 2595 miles later we got home without CELs. I ordered a Charcoal Cannister and it would show up the next day. The next day, my wife took the LC to work, and barely made it back home. Check engine light (P0100), and limp mode. I could not restart the truck.
I put the new Charcoal Cannister in and replaced all the vacuum hoses around there. I was happy to see the Rockauto Charcoal Cannister was a Toyota / Denso unit. The electric valves were Toyota stamped as well (around $350 shipped). I pulled the PCV valve and cleaned it (it was clogged) and cleaned the Throttle Body butterfly. Unhooked the battery and let the Computers reset, fired it up and it ran awful and smelled but it started. It popped another code, P0100, and was not running great but was relearning and getting better albeit a very high erratic RPM. I bought a Hitachi brand MAF sensor and replaced that and the codes went away and seemed to fix most of those issues.
Other issues that popped up after the trip:
We started losing the dryness in the HVAC system. I noticed the discharge line that got pinholes in the rubber part that I replaced a while back was leaking at the metal to rubber connection. Got another one on order.
Also, we were losing coolant. Not a lot was lost through the whole trip so it is a small leak. I found the crystalized pink build up at the passenger side front crossover pipe gasket to the engine block. Parts on order.
Regardless of the issues, the ride was super comfortable and very enjoyable. The Buddy Holly Museum, Cadillac Ranch, The Slug Bug Ranch, The Big Texan, Route 66, Rotan Pass, Cave of the Winds, Garden of the Gods, Echo Mountain (Snow Tubing), elevation ~10,000ft up Pikes Peak, Palo Duro Canyon and 2 Colorado Families were all marked off the checklist.
Cadillac Ranch:
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Nice work on the charcoal canister, not surprising given the age and elevation shock (have done TX to CO and back many times). Thankfully west TX/panhandle has some fun kitschy attractions along the way to break up the desolation.
- Thread starter
- #346
Ain't that the truth...
Oh almost forgot. my uncle in CO has a Cruiser as well.
...and my wife's uncle has quite a car collection also and a sweet garage. He has more at the another shop.
2001LC
SILVER Star
P0100 MAF, is one to watchout for and fix ASAP. Bad MAF, more than most anything else, damages CATs fast. When "some" MAF's fail or going bad, result in dumping fuel (rich fuel mixture) into CATs. CAT "may" then ignite and burn up.
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- Thread starter
- #348
I swapped the MAF out last night and took the truck for a drive and WOW! What a difference! The truck is more peppy, reacts faster, and accelerates smoother!
I feel like I should have done this a long time ago but had no idea it was going bad over time. I have cleaned it periodically with MAF Cleaner and never got noticeable results.
2001LC
SILVER Star
Glad it help!
I see weak old OEM MAF or junky aftermarket, cause issues more and more as our fleet ages. Without see a (CEL) DTC P0100.
I should have mentioned:
Best practice is to: Disconnect battery negative post, before disconnect MAF. Wait 20 minutes to reconnect battery.
In fact best to disconnect battery (negative post). When working on any electrical of component. This includes: Seat belt, steering wheel, seats even HVAC cabin filter, etc.
- Thread starter
- #350
Oh wow! I completely forgot to update but I ordered some hub flanges (and all associated parts) and while examining the axle splines I decided to order 2 CV Axles (and 2 for the LX470) while there was a sale going on.
I installed these before the Thanksgiving trip to CO so I would feel sure footed and all of the driveline clunks have gone away, Especially, the P-R-N-D clunks and coming to a complete stop then accelerating from the stop.
The Flange tool came in handy again and I had to use different thickness C Clips on the new Axles. Feels like a new truck with the Axles and Hub Flanges.
I installed these before the Thanksgiving trip to CO so I would feel sure footed and all of the driveline clunks have gone away, Especially, the P-R-N-D clunks and coming to a complete stop then accelerating from the stop.
The Flange tool came in handy again and I had to use different thickness C Clips on the new Axles. Feels like a new truck with the Axles and Hub Flanges.
2001LC
SILVER Star
OUCH,
Looks like caliper weight pulling on brake flex line and wheel speed sensor wire. Which we never what to allow brake flex line or wheel speed sensor wire, to hold weight of caliper. Also, never pry out a wheel speed sensor if they don't easily pull out. Either work around, leaving in placed by freeing wire housing block. Or tap out with 3/4" round wooden dowel from inside when wheel off off. Why? The inner workings (hose, wire) can be stretched and damaged, or wheel speed sensor prying can break speed sensor plastic casing. Most flex lines and speeds sensor I replace, are due to shop damaging them.
Personal I always replace diff side seal for FDS (AKA CV), when R&R FDS. Otherwise it's a 50/50 chance, we leak gear lube from old seal.
I also typically, R&R knuckles rear seal to FDS.
Tip:
Study old FDS axle, where axle needle bearing road. Sroced axle at that point, indicates needle bearing past useful life.
Looks like caliper weight pulling on brake flex line and wheel speed sensor wire. Which we never what to allow brake flex line or wheel speed sensor wire, to hold weight of caliper. Also, never pry out a wheel speed sensor if they don't easily pull out. Either work around, leaving in placed by freeing wire housing block. Or tap out with 3/4" round wooden dowel from inside when wheel off off. Why? The inner workings (hose, wire) can be stretched and damaged, or wheel speed sensor prying can break speed sensor plastic casing. Most flex lines and speeds sensor I replace, are due to shop damaging them.
Personal I always replace diff side seal for FDS (AKA CV), when R&R FDS. Otherwise it's a 50/50 chance, we leak gear lube from old seal.
I also typically, R&R knuckles rear seal to FDS.
Tip:
Study old FDS axle, where axle needle bearing road. Sroced axle at that point, indicates needle bearing past useful life.
- Thread starter
- #352
I barely tried to get the wheel speed sensor out. I didn't try hard because i didn't take it out when I rebooted these axles a while back.OUCH,
Looks like caliper weight pulling on brake flex line and wheel speed sensor wire. Which we never what to allow brake flex line or wheel speed sensor wire, to hold weight of caliper. Also, never pry out a wheel speed sensor if they don't easily pull out. Either work around, leaving in placed by freeing wire housing block. Or tap out with 3/4" round wooden dowel from inside when wheel off off. Why? The inner workings (hose, wire) can be stretched and damaged, or wheel speed sensor prying can break speed sensor plastic casing. Most flex lines and speeds sensor I replace, are due to shop damaging them.
Personal I always replace diff side seal for FDS (AKA CV), when R&R FDS. Otherwise it's a 50/50 chance, we leak gear lube from old seal.
I also typically, R&R knuckles rear seal to FDS.
Tip:
Study old FDS axle, where axle needle bearing road. Sroced axle at that point, indicates needle bearing past useful life.
There is no weight or tension or the wheel sensor wire and very little (if any) on the brake line. I have a screwdriver through a caliper mounting hole and through the sway bar that supports all the weight.
2001LC
SILVER Star
Oh good.
