HZJ75 Pump Truck Take Down-Utility/4x4 Build (1 Viewer)

[lean2lux]

You are having to much fun. I like the look, those 35 fit nicely. You customed a flat bed and retained the original taillights. Would you have the dimensions of your flat bed available? Are you running a 1.5 wheel spacer in the rear?

Thanks man. I wanted to find more narrow tires. But these are working well in the snow and were a good deal. I believe more narrow tires are better in nearly every situation. it is 5ft long x 6ft wide. No spacers also have the same exact springs that are in front except I removed the overload leaf for front but the rear I have left it in for carrying heavy loads. They still have a lot of travel. If you draw a line from eye to eye of the spring (not mounted) and measure from center of that line to the spring it's 11.5". So 11.5 inches of spring arch.

 

[lean2lux]

I don't have more photos of this flipping project with the old springs but I did describe how I did it and that was simply so it would lift it a few inches above the bump stops since mine were nearly riding on the bumps like slight down hill slope and they would touch. But it was a painful day of working with heavy material for really no gain. It did lift it a few inches but the ride was very stiff. I also eventually actually flipped the spring where the rear eye was to the front and front to rear cause this relocates the axle 1.5" forward or so giving me more clearance at the rear of my wheel well. That's where big tires will rub when turning and such. Still those stock springs are so short hard to get good travel. Now I have about 7" gap at bump stops but tons of travel cause my springs allow lots of downward travel as well as the extra up travel the lift provides.

I just realized I could dig the springs up out of the snow and take pics of them Cause they should still be together with all the swapping I did. I know I used some from the back moved to the front and some from front to back because the ubolts were so long in the back. If you really want to do it I bet photos would help quite a bit. But like I said pretty damd stiff. Although the backs did soften a little since I removed some of the longer ones back there.

 

[OkinawaFireHZ1]

We’d appreciate any help on the springs relocate. New project started this week.

 

[lean2lux]

We’d appreciate any help on the springs relocate. New project started this week. View attachment 3174495

View attachment 3174496

Nice! fun stuff ahead. I like the square rear fenders. If I had those I would try to salvage them and use them after the tear down. I'll try to send you some pics today. And I can explain the arrangement too. If you have questions just ask about any of the projects

 

[JDMBC]

Congrats on the 75! It’s a super fun process! Digging the look of the 35s.

The earliest a sounds cab 79 that I’ve seen can be imported is late 1999 model. I imported a 2001 that I’ve been slowly building out. I’ll attach a few pics.

The OME have been fantastic so far. Just make sure you choose the correct constant load springs and you’ll be set. They have options if your running a bumper and winch.

Good luck with the build!

 

[OkinawaFireHZ1]

Looks great!
Status-
1. Removed main pump
2. Removed internal pump house valves and pipes.
3. Removed front weight from bumper
4. Cut welds holding bump house, (except for 3)

Next:
Take down bump house to reuse sheet metal and angle iron to construct extra storage under rear seat.

Wheels and tires

 

[OkinawaFireHZ1]

Congrats on the 75! It’s a super fun process! Digging the look of the 35s.

The earliest a sounds cab 79 that I’ve seen can be imported is late 1999 model. I imported a 2001 that I’ve been slowly building out. I’ll attach a few pics.

The OME have been fantastic so far. Just make sure you choose the correct constant load springs and you’ll be set. They have options if your running a bumper and winch.

Good luck with the build!

View attachment 3182140

View attachment 3182142

View attachment 3182143

What are the dimensions of your box?

 

[JDMBC]

Congrats on the 75! It’s a super fun process! Digging the look of the 35s.

The earliest a sounds cab 79 that I’ve seen can be imported is late 1999 model. I imported a 2001 that I’ve been slowly building out. I’ll attach a few pics.

The OME have been fantastic so far. Just make sure you choose the correct constant load springs and you’ll be set. They have options if your running a bumper and winch.

Good luck with the build!

View attachment 3182140

View attachment 3182142

View attachment 3182143

What are the dimensions of your box?

SET tray is 66” x 72”. Perfect size IMO.

 

[OkinawaFireHZ1]

Nice! fun stuff ahead. I like the square rear fenders. If I had those I would try to salvage them and use them after the tear down. I'll try to send you some pics today. And I can explain the arrangement too. If you have questions just ask about any of the projects

Update: The back is off and the fenders have been salvaged. Ended up rough cutting them off of the rear and will remove spot welds at another time.
Thanks for the suggestion with this fenders. I think they will look nice.

I'm located in okinawa japan at this time. If you need something specific I might be able to source it for you.

 

[olandevo]

Looks great!
Status-
1. Removed main pump
2. Removed internal pump house valves and pipes.
3. Removed front weight from bumper
4. Cut welds holding bump house, (except for 3)

Next:
Take down bump house to reuse sheet metal and angle iron to construct extra storage under rear seat.

Wheels and tires

What is this "Front weight?" I dont remember a fron weight on mine...

 

[olandevo]

I did a thing like you too.

Got my springs re-arched and moved a leaf up front too. My front suspension was also bagged upon arrival. Fit 315 75 R16's good after that.

79 Series rear window panel
79 Series box
Rear seat delete & floor rebuild
140L fuel tank
Raptor liner paint job

 

[OkinawaFireHZ1]

What is this "Front weight?" I dont remember a fron weight on mine...

Under the front bumper diamond plate there is a slab of steel roughly 2”x 6” x 36” ( estimated).

 

[OkinawaFireHZ1]

I did a thing like you too.

Got my springs re-arched and moved a leaf up front too. My front suspension was also bagged upon arrival. Fit 315 75 R16's good after that.

79 Series rear window panel
79 Series box
Rear seat delete & floor rebuild
140L fuel tank
Raptor liner paint job

View attachment 3185217View attachment 3185218

 

[OkinawaFireHZ1]

Nice changes. I see more and more raptor jobs. I like the hood scoop add as well.
Did you install the rear window yourself? I was looking at the schematic parts on the window. Could you share the part numbers you ended up with.
Cheat sheet is always nice!

 

[olandevo]

Nice changes. I see more and more raptor jobs. I like the hood scoop add as well.
Did you install the rear window yourself? I was looking at the schematic parts on the window. Could you share the part numbers you ended up with.
Cheat sheet is always nice!

My friend cut it off a 79 cab he had on hand. It was messy, off an ex mine truck, had holes drilled thru it i had to patch. I Just drilled a bunch of holes around the outside edge, did some grinding, clamped her up and plug welded. Paid $300cad for the panel. I would have liked a brand new one, but i'm cheap and i don't mind doing the work.

Makes you better at building.

I'll DM you some pics of the progress.

Got the glass from another friend who also has mine trucks. I do everything myself, every day after work a little bit more.

Hood scoop came with the top mount intercooler kit i bought for the turbo. Felt that i should cut the hole, install it and paint it while doing the rest of the body work. Turbo will be done further down the road.

 

[olandevo]

It's nice you're in Japan. You can get all those parts somewhat locally. Here in Canada land everything is somewhat molested and a challenge to obtain.

 

[OkinawaFireHZ1]

I just realized I could dig the springs up out of the snow and take pics of them Cause they should still be together with all the swapping I did. I know I used some from the back moved to the front and some from front to back because the ubolts were so long in the back. If you really want to do it I bet photos would help quite a bit. But like I said pretty damd stiff. Although the backs did soften a little since I removed some of the longer ones back there.

We ended up cutting a wire or wires today that supplies power to the main truck switch while we were removing the extra wiring harnesses connecting the firepump housing. We aren't sure where we went wrong at this point but will tackle it tomorrow. When we turn the main power switch on nothing comes on. Did you ever modify that main power switch so that the truck just starts at the ignition/key.

 

[lean2lux]

We ended up cutting a wire or wires today that supplies power to the main truck switch while we were removing the extra wiring harnesses connecting the firepump housing. We aren't sure where we went wrong at this point but will tackle it tomorrow. When we turn the main power switch on nothing comes on. Did you ever modify that main power switch so that the truck just starts at the ignition/key.























Hey sorry I haven't gone out to take a pic of those springs yet.. pretty buried but I'll try soon. I haven't don'e any cutting of wires yet cause some of those wires are rigged to switches on dash (I think) other wires are hot with out a switch at all. Also my tail lights are incorporated in that harness. I separated them as best as I could -fuel sending unit and tail lights from the rest and coiled up the harness under the seat for now (to tackle later lol).. I think @African did the complete wiring harness delete already he sent me a couple pics of the task. I'd check with him bet he'd be able to give you a couple pointers.. my guess is you might have a short somewhere? I remember that I have a spot light that was mounted on the back that could be used weather the ignition was on or off which I protected to keep from shorting and I taped other s*** up cause I was concerned there could be more of those.

 

[OkinawaFireHZ1]

It's nice you're in Japan. You can get all those parts somewhat locally. Here in Canada land everything is somewhat molested and a challenge to obtain.

We definitely went to fast yesterday, thinking we were all clear. I'll reach out to Africa for some assistance. Today we will reattach what was removed and check the fuses. Slow and steady wasn't used yesterday for sure. Thanks for your assistance and answering questions. I grew up
in Kennewick, Wa .

 

[OkinawaFireHZ1]

We ended up cutting a wire or wires today that supplies power to the main truck switch while we were removing the extra wiring harnesses connecting the firepump housing. We aren't sure where we went wrong at this point but will tackle it tomorrow. When we turn the main power switch on nothing comes on. Did you ever modify that main power switch so that the truck just starts at the ignition/key.

Figured it out. We didnt' cut anything but had unplugged two wires (Red and Green) that runs from the battery replay to the dash's main power. The great part is the extra harnesses that we had planned to remove are now gone. Oddly enough, these wires ran from the rear of the truck, up the firewall, around the engine bay, then were also connected to the accessary box inside the truck and then to the battery. We separated these two., and reconnected it from the passenger side front dash through a rubber plug and back to the battery. Went from 12 feet to 5 feet. Everything works!