Hunting for HD Recovery Points (1 Viewer)

[RDC76]

@RDC76 might have some good input here.
He has great recovery points in his bumper!

Thanks golgo13. There are some interesting ideas here but weld quality on some look a little cold to me. Aside from the recovery points on my bumper I also use these double swivel shackles made by codipro. They have a lot of different sizes and ratings and stainless options. But they aren't cheap and you have to make threaded backing plates.

 

[jaymar]

Thanks golgo13. There are some interesting ideas here but weld quality on some look a little cold to me. Aside from the recovery points on my bumper I also use these double swivel shackles made by codipro. They have a lot of different sizes and ratings and stainless options. But they aren't cheap and you have to make threaded backing plates.

Very nice, thanks!

For myself--I need hardpoints I can tow from, and they have to be shaped like shackle mounts or the adapter won't fit.

 

[mmajsw]

Tundra tow loops are direct bolt on replacement for factory tie downs.

View attachment 1194503

Thanks for that bit of information. They are still available on eBay - although there is only 1 set left.

 

[Arkansas80]

I picked up that last set and then messaged the seller for another. Chuck found another couple of sets and sold me some more within a day or so. At 30 bucks for a set of Tundra HD tow points I couldnt pass it up. I just took off the stupid Brush Guard that was on the car when I bought it and put the Tundra Tow Hooks on today. The ones in the front have enough clearance between the bumper and the loop to fit a hook or shackle. The ones in the rear needed some extra build up to gain enough clearance. I bought some steel at Ace and cut it up and drilled holes to match the tow points. I added a 1/4" of build up to get the right amount of clearance.

 

[mmajsw]

I received the Tacoma hooks today but found that they were not a direct bolt-in. The holes in the Tacoma hooks were closer together than the factory 80 hooks by about 1/2 of a hole diameter. I placed the new hooks in the milling machine and a couple minutes later, the bolt holes were now matching. Sorry for the blurry shot as both items were hand held in the dying sunlight. The factory 80 hook in on top.

And here they are installed in the front drivers side

... and passenger side

Tomorrow, I will work on installing the rear hooks. I am pretty sure that I will be shimming the rear hook like Arkansas80 did in the post above.

 

[Hornd]

Tundra Hooks are WAY beefier.
Again, the holes do not line up and about 1/2 of hole will have to be milled.
At $35 a set on Ebay shipped, they are a decent value.
Intend to mount Tundra hooks on front since, rear ones were just powder coated
Bolt is M12 x 1.25 (Fine Thread and 80mm long if anyone cares).

 

[jaymar]

Tundra Hooks are WAY beefier.
Again, the holes do not line up and about 1/2 of hole will have to be milled.
At $35 a set on Ebay shipped, they are a decent value.
Intend to mount Tundra hooks on front since, rear ones were just powder coated
Bolt is M12 x 1.25 (Fine Thread and 80mm long if anyone cares).

View attachment 1239863 View attachment 1239864

I like the low profile, but would be concerned about hanging up / catching on something--depending on terrain, of course.

 

[Inukshuk]

Old thread revival:
(Edit below that Jonsey's e-mailed me to supply the correct bolts)

On Toyota 80 Series USA FB page I saw that Jonsey's (as Adventure Vehicles NW) was again selling their 80 Series "URB" recovery point. https://adventurevehiclesnw.com/sho...ery-80-series/urb-universal-recovery-bracket/ .

Rising Sun did a group buy in 2013 and I bought a pair after breaking a factory tie-down/recovery point. I'd wished I'd bought two pairs. Jonseys stopped selling them for a while. As posted above, the URB is a bent piece of 1/2 steel. Shackle hole is about 1.5 inches. There is about 3/4 inch of steel around the hole. Back in the day they were given a 10,000 lb WLL and 20,000 lb ultimate strength

My opinion is that the factory tie-down/recovery points are fine for any recovery when in good condition. However, I had deformed and cracked a front loop from years of rock hits. It broke on a gentle kinetic pull. Breaking a URB from a rock impact is pretty much impossible.

The included kit bolts (as of 2/15/2021) - don't use them! Pictured below is a fine-thread (1.25 pitch) recovery point bolt (dark) and the incorrect supplied coarse-thread (1.5 pitch) bolt (gold). The supplied bolt is nice, shiny, shouldered, the correct diameter, and rated 10.9. But its wrong thread pitch.

You want M (metric) 12 x 1.25, Strength rated 10.9. (10.9 metric is equivalent to Grade 8 SAE.) Length will vary depending if you are straight to frame or perhaps sandwiching against your trailer hitch or aftermarket bumper. I used 50mm. Years ago at AAA Metric Supply for $24 I replaced all my bumper, recovery point, and tow hitch hardware.)

I will e-mail Jonsey's to tell them. Happy to now have two solid recovery points each front and rear.

 

[Inukshuk]

I just heard from Melissa at Jonsey's. She thanked me for pointing out the error, apologized for the error and not catching it themselves (she said they knew it should have been fine thread), said they would reach out to other customers who had received the wrong bolts. and offered me a cash credit or to send some proper bolts. They are sweet flange head bolts so I accepted replacement bolts. Will post up when they are installed.

 

[Trusty Rusty]

I just heard from Melissa at Jonsey's. She thanked me for pointing out the error, apologized for the error and not catching it themselves (she said they knew it should have been fine thread), said they would reach out to other customers who had received the wrong bolts. and offered me a cash credit or to send some proper bolts. They are sweet flange head bolts so I accepted replacement bolts. Will post up when they are installed.

Any pics after install @Inukshuk ? Those look super beefy.

 

[Inukshuk]

Any pics after install @Inukshuk ? Those look super beefy.

The beat up one has been on my truck 7 years and was an earlier welded design. Frame rail photo shows bolt length is good in back.

 

[Trusty Rusty]

Good stuff, thanks for the pics @Inukshuk !

 

[GW Nugget]

It is funny people bolting big beefy 1" thick tow points to a frame rail less than 1/4" thick.
There needs to be more support. Especially side pulls.

 

[jaymar]

Hmm I was looking around, trying to find really strong ones, wound up looking at something with insane strength, break-point many times the loaded vehicle's weight. And then I thought, Wait a minute, wouldn't I rather this thing break than tear the frame in half? That said, these do look nice... FWIW.

 

[Malleus]

It is funny people bolting big beefy 1" thick tow points to a frame rail less than 1/4" thick.
There needs to be more support. Especially side pulls.

No doubt. Welds have no strength in shear, especially those puny weldnuts, tackwelded inside the frame. I'm constantly amazed that people mount "recovery" hardware on transport tie down mounting points. I can't count the weldnuts that I have rattling around inside my three 80s.

Why no one welds a tapped mounting plate to the outside of the frame is beyond me.

 

[GW Nugget]

No doubt. Welds have no strength in shear, especially those puny weldnuts, tackwelded inside the frame. I'm constantly amazed that people mount "recovery" hardware on transport tie down mounting points. I can't count the weldnuts that I have rattling around inside my three 80s.

Why no one welds a tapped mounting plate to the outside of the frame is beyond me.

To further add if you use all 5 bolt on points on each frame horn then mount a recovery anchor point to that is best.

 

[lumbee1]

I was || this close to buying the URB's listed above but @GW Nugget and @Malleus make good points (no pun intended). I've never been a fan of the lack of clearance of the tow loops and instead I'm going to pull my ARB, drill holes in the front, and weld in some real recovery points that extend through the bumper. It's a lot more work but any pulls on these points will be directly inline with the frame rails.

 

[Road Apple]

Haven’t read through the whole thread, but here’s a few recover point options.

ARB® 2821030 - Recovery Point Left Hand Side

Recovery Tow Points Toyota 80 Series Landcruiser - https://www.the4wdshed.com/recovery-tow-points-pair-toyota-80-series-landcruiser-roadsafe4wd

Recovery Points/Shackle Mounts

RECOVERY POINTS/SHACKLE MOUNTS 3/4" thick weld in CNC milled recovery points with 7/8" shackle pin hole for use with standard 3/4" recovery shackles. Available in different lengths and shapes. Sold as a Pair SHIPPING Parts are shipped via USPS Priority Mail to residential and commercial addresses.

4x4labs.myshopify.com

BOSS Recovery Tow Points to suit Toyota Landcruiser 80 Series - AUS4WD.shop

Made in Australia by Boss 4WD

aus4wd.shop

Universal Recovery Brackets (URBs) - Adventure Vehicles NW - https://adventurevehiclesnw.com/shop/land-cruiser/80-series/towing-and-recovery-80-series/urb-universal-recovery-bracket/

Rated Recovery Points | Toyota Land Cruiser 100 Series (1998-2007)

Recovery is an inevitability when four wheel driving. You need rated recovery points that can safely withstand and distribute the loads of a recovery – which is something stock tow points aren’t designed to do. Ironman 4x4 has created recovery points that are both rated and designed to be fitted...

ironman4x4america.com

 

[jaymar]

I was || this close to buying the URB's listed above but @GW Nugget and @Malleus make good points (no pun intended). I've never been a fan of the lack of clearance of the tow loops and instead I'm going to pull my ARB, drill holes in the front, and weld in some real recovery points that extend through the bumper. It's a lot more work but any pulls on these points will be directly inline with the frame rails.

Beat me to suggesting that. I think I've seen it done, somewhere here...

 

[CPACruiser]

I make a 1/2" bolt on CNC radiused option that a bunch of mudders are running, nice for soft shackles.

I have one set available (uncoated) they're $165 shipped per set in bare metal or $185 powder coated