Hub flange removal writeup (5 Viewers)

[Muddy Bean]

Just for a safety check - I've been a fan of going the extra step of taking the wheel off and using it for a jack stand/catch incase something goes wrong.

That's nice and super safe to do, but I don't even jack up the truck to do this. I'm not lifted and I have smaller than stock tires on and I can fit under the truck to remove the driveshaft and of course don't need to remove the wheel to remove the flange so not sure this applies to everyone. But if you have to jack the truck up for some reason, by all means, safety first.

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[Muddy Bean]

So today I'm going to clean up this write up and organize the photos with the text a little better. If anyone thinks of anything else, let me know and I can add it.

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[Copenhagen1]

.....Once you've popped up all the cone washers (this takes a lot of hammering and tapping, gentle but firm, be patient during this step), you can tap on the flange and gently pry at it to get it to slide off the studs. The gasket can sometimes act like adhesive and make it stick. But it should eventually slide off the studs: You'll need to pop off the c-clip snap ring: ....... Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD while navigating gnarly trail. Typos are inherent.

Great write up Muddy! Definitely FAQ worthy.

Be sure and change the order to remove the c-clip BEFORE trying to pry off the flange.

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[Muddy Bean]

Thanks for all the suggestions/advice. I cleaned it up a little. Let me know if there's anything else you see...

--Scott Bennett

 

[yotasavg]

Reorganization looks great Muddy, really helpful. One thing though, and a question to follow: at the end you say it's necessary to do 2 things, but you only listed 1 step. Seems like you finished your thought, so maybe just a bit of editorial work is in order.

So, for limping home from a trail run, does one run it with no drive flange until it can be machined? Does the C-clip and dust cap seal the deal to get you home?

And one more thing: This would also be the correct procedure in case of a broken CV axle, not just a broken diff, correct?

 

[AimCOtaco]

The only thing I'd suggest adding to your instructions MB: Its generally a good idea, before removing the driveshaft, to make match marks using a grease/wax pencil or suitable paint marker (or even masking tape if doing on the side the road/trail). This ensures, when you remount the driveshaft, you get it back on and indexed how it originally was installed. This just helps prevent driveshaft vibe potential.

Otherwise this is, IMO, a well written and documented procedure worthy of being stuck in FAQ!

Using and following match marks is of course the common wisdom but I almost always skip it and it's never given me issues on multiple vehicles. My reasoning is that the shaft is balanced to itself off of the vehicle so orientation on the vehicle should not matter.

Anyone care to try and convince me otherwise?

 

[AimCOtaco]

Just for a safety check - I've been a fan of going the extra step of taking the wheel off and using it for a jack stand/catch incase something goes wrong.

You can skip that if you do the whole job without lifting as I last did it on trail.

 

[paflytyer]

Using and following match marks is of course the common wisdom but I almost always skip it and it's never given me issues on multiple vehicles. My reasoning is that the shaft is balanced to itself off of the vehicle so orientation on the vehicle should not matter.

Anyone care to try and convince me otherwise?

I wouldn't matchmark at the driveshaft flanges. If anything, mark the yoke just in case you separate it, but if you're careful not to do that, I don't see the need. Never hurts to put stuff back together exactly the way it came apart though.

 

[AimCOtaco]

I wouldn't matchmark at the driveshaft flanges. If anything, mark the yoke just in case you separate it, but if you're careful not to do that, I don't see the need. Never hurts to put stuff back together exactly the way it came apart though.

Good call on the slip yoke stud whacker.

... and when under a truck on a snowy tarp in the dark and cold with a diff flange than harder than my knife blade, forget match marks, I'm just happy to not lose any hardware. A cordless impact tool with suitable attachments is a great shaft removal aid under those conditions as well.

 

[Muddy Bean]

ditto on the driveshaft marking. if it was that important, my brand new driveshaft would have been installed on my truck......how??? no way to match that. but someone suggested it, so I put it. just in case. let me add some of other suggestions. keep them coming. thanks...

 

[Muddy Bean]

How's that? Added suggestions.

 

[yotasavg]

Awesome, that last bit answered all my questions.

 

[Copenhagen1]

Without marking, don't you run the risk of reinstalling out of 'phase'?

I'm not exactly sure what I'm talking about except that I reinstalled one out of phase once and had a vibration until I figured out it was out of phase and put it back in phase.

Here is a link to study...http://jniolon.clubfte.com/drivelinephasing/drivelinephasing.html

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[SanDiegoCruiser]

The most difficult thing I ran into was getting the top nut off the drive shaft. I could not turn the drive shaft to access it. So, I had to use some extensions to access that bolt. Anyone else have this issue?

 

[paflytyer]

Without marking, don't you run the risk of reinstalling out of 'phase'?

I'm not exactly sure what I'm talking about except that I reinstalled one out of phase once and had a vibration until I figured out it was out of phase and put it back in phase.

Here is a link to study...http://jniolon.clubfte.com/drivelinephasing/drivelinephasing.html

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Two different things. That link is talking about setting the pinion angle and building a drive shaft in phase. You could be out of phase or unbalanced if you separated the slip yoke and did not put it back together the same way. A drive shaft is balanced on a bench using a balancing machine, not on a vehicle. So theoretically, just removing it from the vehicle should not change that rotational balance.

The most difficult thing I ran into was getting the top nut off the drive shaft. I could not turn the drive shaft to access it. So, I had to use some extensions to access that bolt. Anyone else have this issue?

I remember you saying you couldn't move the truck at all in the spot you were in. Under more ideal conditions, just roll the truck a foot or less to rotate the drive shaft and gain access to the other nuts.

 

[fireball]

Muddy, any chance of putting together a quick tool list so that those of us who may or may not have to do this repair on the trail, on the side of the road, in the future have the necessary tools kept in the truck?

Thanks for the helpful pics and writeup.

PAfly - where's that video of your 7 year old doing the work?

 

[paflytyer]

It's on my phone and GoPro. I need to clean it up and post it. There is a tool list in a few of the broken diff threads. Off the top of my head.....

14mm socket for flange nuts
2- 14mm wrenches for driveshaft
Snap ring pliers
Brass bar or hammer
2 bags labeled left/right or driver/passenger to keep parts in

That's a very basic list but will get you off the trail.

My 7 year old has done this job more than once. He even did it once in flip flops. Bluecruiser approved and encouraged. This was during a wheel bearing repack....

 

[phsycle]

Thought I would post up on here instead of starting a new thread. I found new flanges were about $100 per pair, if anyone wishes to get them machined out ahead of time. (43421E and 43421F on the diagram). If anyone knows of a cheaper place, please post up.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Cone washer removal tool 10 sec. per side
No beating on the flange
No beating on the side of the flange
No need to remove the tire.
No worries on damaging the threads or anything else associated with cone washer removal.
Tool cost from HFT $10 with coupon.
Never have a cone washer problem ever again.

 

[3D FJ]

I bought two new hub flanges and I am pretty sore they came out to be much les than 100 for both. I just have to find a place to machine them.