Ok...I'll bite: Taken off my hub flanges more often than I have fingers and toes to count. So, if you don't mind, can you please expound on how you loosen the cone washers without a BFH, brass drift and repeated blows to the studs and/or flange?
Hub flange removal writeup
- Thread starter Muddy Bean
- Start date
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Ok...I'll bite: Taken off my hub flanges more often than I have fingers and toes to count. So, if you don't mind, can you please expound on how you loosen the cone washers without a BFH, brass drift and repeated blows to the studs and/or flange?
Remove the nuts
put the tool on the end of the stud and a quick trigger pull and you are done, used by master techs everywhere. Personally done 100's cone washer over the past 25years, never denied never any repercussions. Included my repair tools I carry in my Land Cruiser. 
steel on steel?
Trust me
Guys that do this for a living use it ever day, there is where I learned it from.
What is this tool called at HFT?
tool> http://www.harborfreight.com/medium-barrel-air-hammer-with-chisel-61244.html
Cut the end of the chisel off slide on a piece hose and you are go to go
- Thread starter
- #47
Ok, so the new site mucked up my writeup...is there a chance this will still make it into the FAQ? I haven't seen it there...
- Thread starter
- #49
Made my year. Thanks 
Phil is a genius. After the better part of Sunday afternoon tapping, both on flange and on stud with a 3 lbs hammer and brass bar, this took 30 seconds for both sides! And it's a 13.99 gun! They weren't rusted, just hadn't seen daylight in 15 years and weren't interested in changing that.
I cut the hose just long enough that it requires some pressure to compress it slightly and contact the stud. Phil's idea should be a FAQ.
Sacrificed bit:
In tool:
With rubber hose to keep on stud:
In action:
Another vote for FAQ placement...for the few that actually look in FAQ 
As far as phase of the drive shaft parts go, if you pull the slip yoke end out of the drive shaft tube and forget which way it goes back in, remember this: The zerks all line up on the same side. That's how they come from Toyota.
And as far as the C-Clip goes, I'd use the thinnist ones you have in your kit because the only reason you even need them on there at all for this purpose is to keep the back side of the knuckle sealed against the elements. Put the thin ones on and grease them really good to prevent wear.
And as far as the C-Clip goes, I'd use the thinnist ones you have in your kit because the only reason you even need them on there at all for this purpose is to keep the back side of the knuckle sealed against the elements. Put the thin ones on and grease them really good to prevent wear.
Nice stuff! I have found you can get the cone washers moving with a machinist scribe at the split in the washer.
And just to be "master of the obvious", you need to engage the CDL, eh?
And just to be "master of the obvious", you need to engage the CDL, eh?
This write up, with pictures, helped me tons when my 99 blew the front differential. Thanks, tons!
The end was cut off of end and a short piece of rubber hose was slid over the end to keep the tool centered on the stud
The studs are larger on the hundred SERIES than 80 series
Also the flanges are made of hardened steel and you're lathe operator be on top of his game
Curious on why you want to do this for a 100 series?
Also the flanges are made of hardened steel and you're lathe operator be on top of his game
Curious on why you want to do this for a 100 series?
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If I understand correctly to seal up the bearing area while allowing the CV not to turn. Having machined flanges along with the dust cap will prevent contaminants from entering the bearing area and prevent grease from escaping.